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Originally Posted by pciley
As far as the .4' vs. .6 on the cubic foot question, why not build your box as small as possible.* Just make sure the magnet is .25" or more from the inside rear of the box when the sub is mounted. ** The little bit of flex might cause the rear of the magnet to contact if you are closer.
*If .4 cubic feet ends up being too small, you can ALWAYS add PolyFill to fool the subs into thinking your box is bigger.
If you build a .6' box, you will not be able to make it smaller (unless you cut it up and try again).
**Tip: If you have built your box to the tightest tolerances of the mounting depth specs, and you are not sure if the sub magnet contacts or how far it is from the inside of the rear of the box, place a small chunk of clay or silly putty on the area of the bottom of the magnet most likely to contact the inside of the box and press the sub all the way onto the box as if it were being screwed down. Pull the sub out. Peel the clay off carefuly as to preserve its width and you will be able to see how far the magnet is or if it is contacting the box inside.
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O.K., I think I understand. I am going to go with downfiring. My understanding is that would involve having a downwardly facing peripheral lip or ledge that contacts the floor, while the rest of the downward face is recessed a bit. Is that correct? How deep should the face be recessed?
As far as "properly attached to the floor" what does that involve? I was hoping just to size the box to be clamped down by the rear seat, when folded to a down position. Do I need to make some brackets to attach the box to the bolts that mount the seat to the floor?
I don't actually have the sub (I have access to a great shop this weekend, but the sub is not here yet), I am just working from the posted mounting depth and diameter. So I think I can leave a little extra space for the magnet.