[Sammy Sandbag]

Originally Posted by Justintoxicated

oh man, this is getting more and more complex now! I don't really see a way to get the adapters made for the fronts, since I don't really have a template to give to a cabinet shop.

When you remove your front 6x9's, you'll see they are mounted on these black plastic mounts. I simply traced that mount onto some cardboard then cut the carboard out to make a template. It then took a little trimming of the MDF to get the pannels to fit without touching.

I do not have the RF unit.

Good, no oem amp to worry about.

I don't know the efficiencies of the amps and have no idea where to even get this information as they are not brand new amplifiers. but at 50%AB and 80%D

If you look in your owners manual, or on the manufacturer's website you should be able to find what class amp it is.

it recomends 8&6 However I should probably go with 6&4 so I don't have to re-run stuff later if I get a different amp.

You'll probably have a hard time finding 6ga, so just 4 and 4 would be best.

Interesting about the fuses, On my old tuck I just had 2 wires connected to the battery terminial. on that website it looks like it goes 1 big fuse then splits into smaller ones?

This keeps you from having to run two seperate wires through the firewall. Just run one wire into the cabin to a fused distributor block then to your amps.

Can you drive around with the door panels off? I could not on my old truck cause the window controlls were attached.

Sure you can, hell I've been driving around without mine for the past 4 weeks or so, I just finished the doors on Friday. To operate the windows you just need to plug the switch back in. The remote door lock/unlock will work regardless.

1) I'm renting a room and have no garage, so it would have to be an all day get it done project.

I'd be amazed if you can finish it in one day. Like I said it's been several weeks for me, and still not done. Of course I only get to work on it on the weekends and I've spent a lot of time waiting for parts to come in the mail.

2) I need a similar mount to what you made but have no way to make one, I need mine to Hold the tweeter also, since I hear it is much better to locate the tweeter in the door than on the dash(is this true?). (want to make me a set ?)

I don't know about that, I would think it wouldn't be good to have them mounted right next to eachother. If you want to still mount them in the door, most tweeters come with several mounting options, like a flush mount. Of course you'd have to drill your door panel for that. I just mounted all my tweeters in the stock locations. I only had to cut the little oem grills to mount them, and those can be easily replaced.

3)I did not understand the complications in dynamatting. You have to add sheet metal to the door panel? HuH?

No, I was just thinking out loud as far as the best way to cover the large openings in the door panels. I took Smoketitan's advice and just covered the holes with at least two layers of mat.

4) I did not understand where you have to cut or drill into the door panels, I would like to avoid this compleatly because 1)I have no power tools, 2) I don't want a bunch of holes in my doors.

I'm not sure where you read that, as it's not necissary to drill or cut the doors anywhere. I did widen the factory speaker screw holes just a fraction of an inch to get my 1/4" bolts through, but you can just use a smaller bolt for mounting your speakers.

5)I don't even know how to remove the side pannels on the floor to run the wires under them? I don't knwo how much of anything comes apart on the interior of the titan and I tend to break things when I rip stuff apart. (again I have to do the work in intervals I can't leave the titan in a garage, it will be parked on the street while I work on it! Or were you recomending I remove the center console and the area where the shifter goes?

Smoketitan wrote instructions on how to remove the door panels here: HOW TO REMOVE THE DOORS --simple instructions

Bestatchess wrote instructions on how to remove the center console here: Console Removal & Acoustic Insulation

Everything pretty much just snaps apart or together. Just take your time and don't force anything.

6)When you say drilla hole in the firewall, you mean I have to drill a huge hole under the dash someplace to run the wire?

Well you gotta get power from the battery some how. I ran 0ga from the battery to the back wall. I bought a firewall grommet which required a 1" hole and I used a hole saw to cut a hole just above the passenger side foot well. I'll try and get some pictures posted to help illustrate.

If I can overcome these 2 issues I should have no trouble with the rest after I figure out the dynamtting and how to remove the pannels. Also Need to figure out where to wire the remote wire to I don' really understand. I'll probably keep the stock CD player for a while and go with the $150 LC6 for the time being. Perhaps later I can get a real deck.

The ignition switch line to the radio is pin number 10 on the M43 plug and is a violet colored wire. Just keep in mind that you won't get very much signal strength from the factory HU, and the LC6 does not have a built in line driver. You might want to look at the Alto Mobile UI-4, which should be available by the time you get started: http://www.altomobile.com/html/accessories.html