[Sammy Sandbag]

Originally Posted by Blue_Water_Rush

could I use the front speaker leads from the HU to power the center speaker in the dash, regardless of running the front pre-outs for front components? If so, can you concievably bridge the left & right leads to one speaker?

I wouldn't do it. Most amps that are bridgeable are advertised as such, and ones that aren't, usually warn against this. Your HU, unless specified, is probably not bridgeable.

1. with 5 volt pre-outs, is it neccessary to use a line driver?

No, but I did anyways.

2. I'll have a total of approx. 650 watts. would a 4 ga. power wire to dist. block and 8 ga. power wires from there to amps suffice, and will the stock battery handle that? Of course if I upgrade the subs later I might be over 1400 watts at that point, so the 0 ga. to 4 ga. might be needed then.

Check this tool for wire size calculations: http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/sys...nassistant.swf

3. I'm still unclear as to how the pac swi-x works. Is the wiring from the steering wheel controls tied into the swix as well as the plug leading into the HU? How does it actually transmit the commands?

Magic.... No, it learns the IR signal commands from your aftermarket HU remote control, then emits them according to whatever steering wheel control buton you programmed in.

4. When matting the doors, how do you do the inside wall, as it is almost impossible to get to?

This is where forced child labor comes in handy, because their tiny little arms fit up in there. No, you just have to deal with the scrapes and awkward positions and get it in there. It really wasn't that difficult.

I can also see a problem with the KC in running speaker wires to the rear doors, as there is no rubber boot, just a vinyl sleeve, and its packed tight with wires.

That I can't really answer. Possibly just run it on the outside of this sleeve and tape it to it with electrical tape. Or remove the vinyl sleeve all together, tape your wire to the bundle, then cover with split loom and more tape.