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Preventive maintenance

6K views 29 replies 6 participants last post by  Jrod8490 
#1 ·
So I will be rolling over 100k in a month or so I'm wanting to know what maintenance would be required as far as fluids tranny,transfer case, front and rear differentials,maybe ball joints anything to keep the truck going strong for the near future


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#3 ·
do you have the owners manual?
in there should dictate the service intervals.

and this all depends on how diligent you want to be.

@100K I would, if it hasn`t been done in the normal intervals for lessor mileage:

coolant - replace - check all hoses
front and rear diff - service
transfer case - service
auto trans - flush/replace - check all hoses
power steering fluid - replace - check all hoses and steering rack
brake fluid - replace - check all hoses and calipers including E brake system

AC system, check refrigerant/oil
cabin air filter - replace
Belt - replace
PCV - replace
spark plugs - replace
air filter - replace

suspension
check all rubber bushings, shocks, shackles, strut mount, tie rods, ball joints,
 
#4 ·
Jrod, at 100 kmi, you may also want to replace the front left/right O2 sensors. They may start to get lazy at those miles, although I've run O2 sensors considerably longer (sometimes being lazier than the O2 sensors). Seems like PR is spot on with the rest of the routine stuff.

FYI, you may already know, so please excuse if so, there are 2 PCV valves to replace, one on each side. Sounds like you are 4WD? Check the front CV joints, and U-joints front and back, and transmission mount (2WD guys would need to check the drive shaft center support bearing, too - not used on 4WD models).

Are you in northern winter-salted-road territory? If so, check the exhaust system carefully for leaks, possible rust through. When the tailpipe rusts through behind the muffler, the exhaust leaks won't sound bad, but can direct hot gas on the wiring harness in the rear, causing all sorts of issues.

Have you done the rear axle vent mod? Good, easy project to add.

That would have you ready for the next 100 kmiles! Cheers!
 
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#5 ·
I've replaced cv axle, all universal joints,lower control arms,front wheel bearing,coolant,both manifolds were changed less than 3000 miles ago due to being cracked. Right side o2 sensor was replaced due to no signal reading on diagnostic test. The exhaust has been completely redone from cat back.I'm planning installing CAI soon.I have not done the rearend vent mod. The trans mount is a lil cracked on the front side but not completely so it's on the to do list.


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#6 ·
Cool, sounds like you have things well in hand. You'll get lots more service from your truck, I'm sure.

Cheers!
 
#7 ·
Thanks brotha! I've been very o.c.d. With this truck.
I do have some concerns on changing the fluids in the big stuff like tranny ,transfer case, and differentials. I know it good for ur car and it recommended but I have seen threads of failures on the parts after changing out the fluids. It's prob me being over paranoid smh..


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#10 ·
Just remember to do drain and fill, don't flush the transmission.
 
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#11 ·
That's what I did to mine on the transmission - drain and refill. I think that was maybe 2 years ago, and everything's still purring along good as ever. Had to add a couple of worm clamps on the transmission line, though. I would check those, those spring clamps get weak.
 
#15 ·
Any high quality fluid that meets the Nissan recommendations will do just fine. After that, it's a matter of personal preference, availability and price, as PR said. There is some debate about the necessity of using Nissan Matic S (or J in the older Titans - look in your owners manual or service manual). Quite a few folks like Amsoil products.

As a long standing personal preference that started with my years in the BMW Car Club (BMW CCA) and keeping older Getrag transmissions happy, I use Red Line Oil fluids - 75W90 in the front diff, 75W140 in the rear diff (the modified Dana 44 specs heavier fluid), D4 ATF in the transfer case, and D6 ATF in the transmission and power steering. Red Line fluids are very high quality synthetics, and it's what I keep "stocked" in my shop. Sometimes difficult to get locally, it's not hard to source online. With a little searching, it can be found at lower than list cost. Yes, it is expensive, but with 25-30 kmi replacement intervals, it's a lot cheaper than having mechanical issues. Other high quality oils will likely do just as well, so again, matter of personal preference and what I keep on hand.

Cheers!
 
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#16 ·
Any high quality fluid that meets the Nissan recommendations will do just fine. After that, it's a matter of personal preference, availability and price, as PR said. There is some debate about the necessity of using Nissan Matic S (or J in the older Titans - look in your owners manual or service manual). Quite a few folks like Amsoil products.

As a long standing personal preference that started with my years in the BMW Car Club (BMW CCA) and keeping older Getrag transmissions happy, I use Red Line Oil fluids - 75W90 in the front diff, 75W140 in the rear diff (the modified Dana 44 specs heavier fluid), D4 ATF in the transfer case, and D6 ATF in the transmission and power steering. Red Line fluids are very high quality synthetics, and it's what I keep "stocked" in my shop. Sometimes difficult to get locally, it's not hard to source online. With a little searching, it can be found at lower than list cost. Yes, it is expensive, but with 25-30 kmi replacement intervals, it's a lot cheaper than having mechanical issues. Other high quality oils will likely do just as well, so again, matter of personal preference and what I keep on hand.

So I think I'm gonna go with the oem Nissan fluids could u give me the quarts needed for the transmission, transfer case and the rear differential. From what I'm seeing I'm gonna need around 5 for tranny, 2-1/8 qt for transfer case and 4-1/4 pints for rear differential which coverts to 2.2 qts I think. I just want to be sure so I order enough.


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#17 ·
Rear diff is 2 1/8 qt 75W-140 synthetic. Coincidentally, the transfer case is 2 1/8 qt, NissanMatic D or Dexron IV ATF. Transmission can vary, depending on how you drain. If you just drain the pan, it's 4-5 qts, I think. If you pull a transmision cooler line, and do a more complete exchange (see other threads on the forum), it will take more, of course. Front diff is just under 1 3/4 qt, 80W90 (I use 75W-90 Red Line gear oil), Don't forget the power steering. You can use a suction tool to remove as much as possible or do a more complete exchange (see forum threads for how to). That takes Nissan power steering fluid or Dexron VI ATF, less tha a quart if you suction out the reservoir and replace.

If it's been more than 2 years since brake fluid flush, that should also be done - pressure bleeder recommended.

Then for the long haul, replacing coolant is a good idea - some debate about how often - 4-ish years is tops - with Nissan LongLife Blue. Cooling system is 13 qt, so 50/50 mix, half of that for antifreeze, if not premixed.

Cheers!
 
#19 · (Edited)
There is a bit of controversy about that. On older trucks that haven't had the transmission serviced, there is some risk in dislodging particles, and causing collateral damage, so to say. Pressure flush at a dealer or independent shop is more likely to cause that.

Personally, and since I do regular, periodic maintenance, I prefer to do a more complete exchange than just a pan drain and fill, since the drain/fill only gets something like 40% of the fluid changed.

The service manual seems split on that, however. Standard procedure is drive until the tranmsision is hot (80 deg C, 176 deg F), drain, measuring the amount removed, and refilling with the exact amount measured. Drive, recheck, and "if the fluid is still dirty, repeat" [drain and fill]. Don't reuse the transmission pan drain plug gasket, replace it.... so best to have a couple on hand.

Alternatively, the service manual also adds (quoting directly, now):
• To flush out the old A/T fluid from the transmission oil coolers, pour new A/T fluid into the A/T fluid charging
pipe with the engine idling and at the same time drain the old A/T fluid from the auxiliary transmission
oil cooler hose return line.
• When the color of the A/T fluid coming out of the auxiliary transmission oil cooler hose return line is
about the same as the color of the new A/T fluid, flushing out the old A/T fluid is complete. The amount
of new A/T fluid used for flushing should be 30% to 50% increase of the specified capacity.​

Search on transmission fluid changes and you will find some recent threads where folks have shared more how-to tips on that procedure. That will exchange essentially all of the fluid.

My thoughts - if your transmission fluid looks and smells like fresh ATF, and if you are going to refill with NissanMatic S or J, then you would be fine doing the simpler drain/fill. On the other hand, if you are changing to a synthetic like Amsoil, Red Line, or other, then I prefer the more complete exchange, although even then, it's not required, as the fluids should be fully compatible.

Long winded, but hope that helps.
 
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#21 · (Edited)
Yes, there is that... The fluid will be coming out quickly, and it is HOT, so it's easier as a 2-person job. You don't want to let the transmission run dry.

PR, you have a personal Exxon Valdez experience? :poke: heeheeheee
 
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