4 + qts vs 2 and the coolness factor... They are numbered sequentially.. 1 to.....
Lemme help out a bit... This mod is a no brainer imo.
Here is the cover and the OEM cover for comparison:
Mag-Hytech #MT-44 Install.
Note: This write up is intended as a supplement to Mag-Hyteck installation instructions only.
TOOLS REQUIRED:
3/8” Ratchet
¼” allen bit with 3/8” drive
3/16” allen wrench
Putty knife
4 ½ qts synthetic 75-140 gear oil
Beer
PARTS CONTENT
1- Mag-Hytech differential cover with reusable gasket
13- 5/16 – stainless allen cap screws (torque 12 – 16 ft. lbs)
14- 5/16 stainless AN washers
1- Drain plug assembly with magnet and O-ring (installed)
1- Dipstick assembly with magnet and O-ring (installed)
1- Oil level reference plug with O-ring
1- 1/8” pipe plug (for optional temperature sender not included)
Dipstick, drain plug, reference plug and 1/8” pipe plug torque to 30 in. lbs
(2.5 ft. lbs)
INSTALLATION
1. Park truck on level ground and apply parking brake. Remove spare tire to allow adequate work space (optional).
2. Drain rear differential. 3/8” drive ratchet required.
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5. Allow all left over gear lube to drain.
6. Using a putty knife carefully remove all of the old gasket material from housing being careful not to mar the mounting surface.
Some pics inside:
7. Using lint free rags wipe down remaining oil from inside the housing and to clean the housing gasket surface. I also used a degreaser to get the surface totally free of oil.
8. The E-brake bracket did not fit with my cover. I had to remove it and grind off about a ¼” off the bottom so the holes on the bracket would line up with the holes on the new cover.
9. Position the cover with the gasket by aligning the bolt holes and start one of the new stainless steel allen cap screw and stainless steel washers and continue around the bolt pattern until all 10 bolts and washers are installed finger tight. NOTE: you will need 2 additional washers to go on the back of the E-brake bracket (see pic).
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10. Using a ¼” hex bit and 3/8” drive torque wrench torque the bolts to (12-16 ft lbs) in a “cross tight” pattern. I torqued mine to 14 lbs.
11. Reinstall the OEM drain plug to the bottom of the differential housing. Apply thread sealer to the plug and install (torque to 25 ft lbs)
12. Check the drain plug, and 1/8 pipe plug for tightness. If you are going to install a temperature sender, do so now. Remove the 1/8” plug and install sender in its place. Be sure to use LPS all purpose Anti-Seize or equal on the sender’s threads. Tighten drain plug, and pipe plug to 30 inch pounds. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. I did not have an inch pound torque wrench and 30 in. pounds converts to 2.5 ft. pounds but my torque wrench only goes down to 5 ft lbs so I just got them tight by hand.
13. Remove dipstick assembly and add in the new gear lube. I removed the oil reference plug before adding oil. I did this because though they say 4 ½ qts I have read that some doing this install had oil bubbling out of the breather tube. Add oil until it starts to come out of the reference hole. Mine took a little less than 4 qts. I think this is due to the TrueTrac I have taking up more volume that the old parts it replaced. Install reference hole plug and dipstick. Drive truck at least 25 miles. Remove dipstick and reference plug and add oil (if needed) until oil runs from the reference hole. As a precaution I put my OEM breather back on the axle and will observe it for about a week to watch for oil coming out of it. I will then reinstall my axle vent mod. I have found that the oil level on the dipstick is right at the low mark when filled until the oil runs from the reference hole.
Here are some temperature comparisons:
Drove with OEM cover on to Alpine and back (22 miles) and did 2 burnouts for good measure and here are the readings:
Same drive (burnouts included) with new cover
Done..... Oh, and yes that is a TrueTrac you see in there....