What to Get to detail it right:

[Skyboi]

Originally Posted by Nismo4life

does the nu finish scratch remover work good?

P.O.S.!!!!!!!

[darkknight]

this may be a dumb question but what is the difference between buffing, waxing, and polishing? i thought they all meant the same thing.

[Skyboi]

Originally Posted by darkknight

this may be a dumb question but what is the difference between buffing, waxing, and polishing? i thought they all meant the same thing.

Yeah...close.

Buffing usually means scratch removal...
Polishing usually means restoring the finish after buffing...
Waxing usually means sealing the final finish....

[roy365]

Originally Posted by Skyboi

Yeah...close.

Buffing usually means scratch removal...
Polishing usually means restoring the finish after buffing...
Waxing usually means sealing the final finish....

Ok just bought the Makita 7'' orbital kit. Also sprung for the 3M Perfect-it line products.

Swirl mark remover
Rubbing Compound
Final Glaze
Finesse-it

I have two black vehicles to work on. Hopefully i wont ruin them. It's been a while since i have went into this much detail on a vehicle.

[Skyboi]

Originally Posted by roy365

Ok just bought the Makita 7'' orbital kit. Also sprung for the 3M Perfect-it line products.

Swirl mark remover
Rubbing Compound
Final Glaze
Finesse-it

I have two black vehicles to work on. Hopefully i wont ruin them. It's been a while since i have went into this much detail on a vehicle.

ROY...Pick up some painters tape in 2 sizes...1/2 inch and either 2 or 3 inch. Also get a few newspapers.

Here you go on black....
1. After washing, tar removal, claybar, rewashing and drying.....

2. Put the 1/2 inch painters tape on the outside(paint) edge of all rubber, plastic, mudflaps, antenna nub, windshield surround front and rear,side window rubber, door handles, tailgate pull, EMBLEMS (so you don't tear them off by accident) front grille.

3.Remove the antenna and wipers if possible...Be careful with loosening the antenna...I've had hundreds of them break right at the base...go slow.

4. Attach paper with the 2-3 inch painters tape to the windows, front grille, mirrors, mudflaps..etc.. Stick the wide tape to the thin.
Anything you wouldn't want wax and products to stick to....

Ready to buff...

1.Try the swirl mark remover with a foam pad on a section of the hood in good light...Apply the product with an applicator pad evenly and thin...DO NOT SQUIRT IT ON THE PAINT or you'll have a squirt mark forever.
Buff in long even strokes with light forward pressure letting the top of the machine do the work under your control. Don't fight the rotation
If your moving the machine to the right...it should be riding on the left part of the pad..opposite for the left swing.

So...down one side and up the other in even strokes....When all the product seems to have powdered away...check the results and adjust from there.

Usually you'll need either more or less product or more or less pressure on the machine.

NEXT...If your first buff is complete..

Same thing with the final glaze...... Use an old toothbrush or the tip of a flathead to gently clean the pad..Just touch the pad while it's spinning away from you and the stuff will fly off.

After the buff....pressure Wash the truck if you can to clean the stuff out of the cracks, wash by hand gently, dry with a leafblower and then hand wax...

Let me know if you run into trouble...PM me and I'll give you my cell and fly you through it.

Listen Roy...Black usually involves 2 buffs and a hand wax so get ready to put a day into it....You'll sleep well when you're done.

[ygbsm]

Originally Posted by Skyboi

ROY...Pick up some painters tape in 2 sizes...1/2 inch and either 2 or 3 inch. Also get a few newspapers.

Here you go on black....
1. After washing, tar removal, claybar, rewashing and drying.....

2. Put the 1/2 inch painters tape on the outside(paint) edge of all rubber, plastic, mudflaps, antenna nub, windshield surround front and rear,side window rubber, door handles, tailgate pull, EMBLEMS (so you don't tear them off by accident) front grille.

3.Remove the antenna and wipers if possible...Be careful with loosening the antenna...I've had hundreds of them break right at the base...go slow.

4. Attach paper with the 2-3 inch painters tape to the windows, front grille, mirrors, mudflaps..etc.. Stick the wide tape to the thin.
Anything you wouldn't want wax and products to stick to....

Ready to buff...

1.Try the swirl mark remover with a foam pad on a section of the hood in good light...Apply the product with an applicator pad evenly and thin...DO NOT SQUIRT IT ON THE PAINT or you'll have a squirt mark forever.
Buff in long even strokes with light forward pressure letting the top of the machine do the work under your control. Don't fight the rotation
If your moving the machine to the right...it should be riding on the left part of the pad..opposite for the left swing.

So...down one side and up the other in even strokes....When all the product seems to have powdered away...check the results and adjust from there.

Usually you'll need either more or less product or more or less pressure on the machine.

NEXT...If your first buff is complete..

Same thing with the final glaze...... Use an old toothbrush or the tip of a flathead to gently clean the pad..Just touch the pad while it's spinning away from you and the stuff will fly off.

After the buff....pressure Wash the truck if you can to clean the stuff out of the cracks, wash by hand gently, dry with a leafblower and then hand wax...

Let me know if you run into trouble...PM me and I'll give you my cell and fly you through it.

Listen Roy...Black usually involves 2 buffs and a hand wax so get ready to put a day into it....You'll sleep well when you're done.

Wow, you could do all that or get a the Zaino triplet package along with a clay bar. The washing, clay barring and then drying is the hard part. The Zaino process will take you a hour or less per vehicle and give you great results. Zaino is by far the easiest product I've ever used and gives a nice deep shine. A little pricey but worth it if you figure your time in.

[Skyboi]

Sorry..^^^^^^^

Over 10,000 cars detailed tells me that Zaino wouldn't even come close to a 2-3 step buff....

But then again....I'm picky

[halemeister]

I've got some scratches in my tailgate that haven't broke the paint and I can't get them out. I tried Meguires Scratch X and it didn't work. What do you recommend to get rid of them? Thanks.

[roy365]

Originally Posted by Skyboi

ROY...Pick up some painters tape in 2 sizes...1/2 inch and either 2 or 3 inch. Also get a few newspapers.

Here you go on black....
1. After washing, tar removal, claybar, rewashing and drying.....

2. Put the 1/2 inch painters tape on the outside(paint) edge of all rubber, plastic, mudflaps, antenna nub, windshield surround front and rear,side window rubber, door handles, tailgate pull, EMBLEMS (so you don't tear them off by accident) front grille.

3.Remove the antenna and wipers if possible...Be careful with loosening the antenna...I've had hundreds of them break right at the base...go slow.

4. Attach paper with the 2-3 inch painters tape to the windows, front grille, mirrors, mudflaps..etc.. Stick the wide tape to the thin.
Anything you wouldn't want wax and products to stick to....

Ready to buff...

1.Try the swirl mark remover with a foam pad on a section of the hood in good light...Apply the product with an applicator pad evenly and thin...DO NOT SQUIRT IT ON THE PAINT or you'll have a squirt mark forever.
Buff in long even strokes with light forward pressure letting the top of the machine do the work under your control. Don't fight the rotation
If your moving the machine to the right...it should be riding on the left part of the pad..opposite for the left swing.

So...down one side and up the other in even strokes....When all the product seems to have powdered away...check the results and adjust from there.

Usually you'll need either more or less product or more or less pressure on the machine.

NEXT...If your first buff is complete..

Same thing with the final glaze...... Use an old toothbrush or the tip of a flathead to gently clean the pad..Just touch the pad while it's spinning away from you and the stuff will fly off.

After the buff....pressure Wash the truck if you can to clean the stuff out of the cracks, wash by hand gently, dry with a leafblower and then hand wax...

Let me know if you run into trouble...PM me and I'll give you my cell and fly you through it.

Listen Roy...Black usually involves 2 buffs and a hand wax so get ready to put a day into it....You'll sleep well when you're done.

You are the man! I am printing this out and studying it. Thanks!!!

[roy365]

So tell me since a hand wax is recommended which is the best?

Can anyone suggest a good internet source for professional products?

Is P21S any good?

Rate scale:

Polish: Low IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII High

Shine: Low IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII High

Protection: Low IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII High

Depth: Low IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII High

[Skyboi]

Originally Posted by roy365

So tell me since a hand wax is recommended which is the best?

Can anyone suggest a good internet source for professional products?

Is P21S any good?

Rate scale:

Polish: Low IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII High

Shine: Low IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII High

Protection: Low IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII High


Depth: Low IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII High

Yo Roy...

Don't think of "waxes" in terms of Polish...Just think of them as as a moisturizer til the next time you wax...Because they break down under the everyday bombardment of elements that we can't control....Ultraviolet light, heat,acid rain.etc...

That's why I like using a wax that I can fly with...On and off quick with no hasles.
This way I'll do it more often without bit@ching about it....

But one thing to remember is that BLACK is trickey....Cause of of the smeary nature of many products that contain petroleum based polymers...

They just turn the easiest jobs into a wipedown nightmare.....This is why I avoid them...

When I find a great product that handles 90% of my situations, It becomes part of my routine because it cuts my job time dramatically...Bottom line

I know we have some vendors here that are really pushing product...but until I verify the miracles I'll stick with my proven products.

Again, feel free to PM me.....I'm not here with any agenda....I'm at a point where I like helping...I remember when I "didn't know"

Can't explain it but it feels good to share the knowledge. It also makes me shake my head when I hear the Ideas floating around out there.

To answer your Q's... I haven't really put the P21S throught the test so I can't give a truthful answer.

2nd...Go here and check out some of these...I find them decent as far as detailind goes.... http://www.titantalk.com/forums/1278296-post2.html

[roy365]

Thanks again Skyboi!!!!!

[Goliath]

Autogeek has a good website and forum. I personally like Pinnacle products but there are a lot of excellent manufacturers out there. I use P21's wheel cleaner and have been satisfied with it. I use a porter cable (PC) to apply my waxes and stuff but there are those who prefer to do it by hand. Either way is fine, it just depends on what works for you.

[P's Titan]

Originally Posted by halemeister

I've got some scratches in my tailgate that haven't broke the paint and I can't get them out. I tried Meguires Scratch X and it didn't work. What do you recommend to get rid of them? Thanks.

Adam's Swirl & Haze Remover

[finallytitan]

All great comments guys, one thing though i don't promote hash chemicals, the clay bar removes more than rust spots, excellent tar remover, local road company got tar over several cars, call me for help after washing and using bug and tar removal with no luck, used clay bar out of fustration, and voila what out now, pull the tar right off. Always use allot of lubricant, no need to buy clay lubricant, lots of soapy water does the trick