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Old 03-21-2008, 03:30 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Re: What to Get to detail it right:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mychael101
When the time comes I'll just put in a call to the local mobile zaino detailer.
How do you afford that being such a lazyass?

Skyboi, my california car duster says it won't scratch the paint, and it hasn't as far as I can tell. I bought it because my truck gets a layer of dust on it after a day because the area I have to park in at work is dirt. I dust it the first few days after I wash it to enjoy a clean vehicle at least for a few days. Is this not a good idea? Will it damage the paint over time? I wax my vehicles every 6 months, so should I wax more often if I dust it frequently?
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Old 03-21-2008, 04:29 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Re: What to Get to detail it right:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullwinkle
How do you afford that being such a lazyass?

Skyboi, my california car duster says it won't scratch the paint, and it hasn't as far as I can tell. I bought it because my truck gets a layer of dust on it after a day because the area I have to park in at work is dirt. I dust it the first few days after I wash it to enjoy a clean vehicle at least for a few days. Is this not a good idea? Will it damage the paint over time? I wax my vehicles every 6 months, so should I wax more often if I dust it frequently?
Bullwinkle...Great question here.

My take is this...Anytime you touch the paint whether with your finger, wrag, duster whatever, you're going to leave a microscopic scratch in the clearcoat. Now, repeated touches will compound those little scratches and over time you will dull the clear coat. Since the Clearcoat is like a lens to the color, when it is scratched and cloudy, the vehicle looks dull. Then the only fix is buffing. This will take a long time but will eventually happen.

My advice: If the dust really bothers you and you feel like you have to wipe it off, Try these tips.
1. Try compressed air if you have it...works great and is gentle
2. Flow some water over it from a hose with no nozzle but do dry it (unless you hand wash it)
3. Very lightly use your duster and keep it clean. Don't listen to the myth that "the dirtier it gets, the better it works" the dirtier means more coarse abrasives you're wiping with
4. Wax it more often to give yourself a microscopic layer of wax to ride on.

One word on buffing... RUN from anyone that promises "swirl free". Can't be done.

Anytime you run a machine on your paint, you will have machine marks..PERIOD
A person that is expert in buffing(uhhum) can minimize and pull the track marks out so there are less of them. But you will have a wave in the paint forever. Waxing often fills in the swirl marks and little imperfections...When the wax dries out and decays from the elements the swirl becomes visible again. Waxing often greatly helps your paint.

Hope this helps...Good luck!
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Last edited by Skyboi; 03-21-2008 at 04:34 PM.
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Old 03-22-2008, 03:10 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Re: What to Get to detail it right:

Paying a professional for professional results is just fine by me. I have no experience with a buffer/polisher and zaino isn't cheap so I'll leave that task to the pros.
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Old 03-22-2008, 07:12 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Re: What to Get to detail it right:

HA HA HA....Smart move....

I used to fix botched buff jobs all the time...They can get pretty ugly. For some reason, some people think that an abrasive pad spinning at 2500 rpms is a piece of cake.....
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Old 03-30-2008, 08:55 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Re: What to Get to detail it right:

There are some good ideas floating around here. If I may add some..

When I wash I use a gentle spray nozzle and wand it flow a large amount of water gently and that want make reaching the top and underneath parts much, much easier.

I use a 3 bucket wash 1- 2.5 gallon and 2 - 5 gallon.

2.5 gallon for wheels and inner fender wells.
2- 5 gallon, one with the suds and one clean water for rinsing out the sponge.

Micro-fiber all the way..

leaf blower for drying..

For the tire finish a product called Onyx you can get at napa.

Mothers pre-cleaner.

P21s wax for the finish. (the BEST wax I have ever used)

Stoner products for the glass and such.

10 hours later "a labor of love" A beautiful truck.

My experience, clay bar is not for the novice user. you can really screw up a vehicle with one if you don't know what your doing.

Colonite is a good "insulator wax" extremely hard to get off, liked the results but it did not last long, less than a month.

Have a buffer, Milwaukee matter of fact, have all the compounds by 3m, pads and such. unless you have totally neglected your truck or had some unfortunate event happen. You don't need it. If you do, leave it to the pro's.

My 2 cents.. sorry I was long winded.
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Old 03-30-2008, 09:06 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Re: What to Get to detail it right:

Not long winded at all....Some good stuff here.

Great advice about leaving it to the pros

I agree the a claybar can be trouble for the novice...

Leafblower is the absolute best for drying

Microfiber all the way

Like the 3 bucket technique

Some Diffs:

Colonite does suck for removing

Watch the "precleaner" stuff....eventually you'll see hand rub marks from it.

Use cheap tire dressing....but use it more often...None really last as long as we want it too.

GOOD STUFF LittleRam
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Old 03-30-2008, 09:06 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Re: What to Get to detail it right:

I almost forgot, I also use a filter on the garden hose when I wash, It's a whole house filter set-up with the charcoal filter. I only use these when I wash the vehicle's and not for the plants...
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Old 03-30-2008, 09:13 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Re: What to Get to detail it right:

Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleRam
I almost forgot, I also use a filter on the garden hose when I wash, It's a whole house filter set-up with the charcoal filter. I only use these when I wash the vehicle's and not for the plants...

Water softeners are great for relaxing waterbeading...really helps eliminate hard water spots and chemical deposits on paint....

I do the same... At the end of the final wash, I take the nozzle off and "float "water over the top with a "sheeting" agent to have the water quickly run off.

Smart move Littleram!
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Old 04-29-2008, 05:17 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Re: What to Get to detail it right:

I use the Zaino car care system and it does wonders.
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Old 04-29-2008, 09:04 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Re: What to Get to detail it right:

If you don't mind forking out a little cash, Try this wax....(see Link) It's the best I have used so far...http://www.p21s.com/products/bis_cw.html
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Old 04-30-2008, 04:43 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Re: What to Get to detail it right:

Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleRam
If you don't mind forking out a little cash, Try this wax....(see Link) It's the best I have used so far...http://www.p21s.com/products/bis_cw.html

Why is it the best?

What do you use as your criteria?

The reason I ask is that I know many people that say this or that is the best only to find out that they've never tried anything else.

If you can convince me that it's really good I'll order some.
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Old 04-30-2008, 06:05 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Re: What to Get to detail it right:

Personally, I've never used it, but I know a lot of guys with very expensive cars that do.... In my other club.... They swear by it, and yes, it gives beautiful results.
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:39 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Re: What to Get to detail it right:

I also like the P21S carnuba wax and if I was going to use a carnuba wax, they would be one at the top of the list and there is also a good carnuba wax sold in Harley shops that is supposed to be the same wax under a different name, maybe S1000 or something. I used it with the same results during my carnuba phase and it is about half what the P21S costs.

I use nothing but microfiber and polymer protectant now and the carnuba can be layered on top if you like but nothing beats the convenience of Klasse that is applied with a damp applicator and wiped right off. If you still have a little water around when you apply it, no problem, very easy to use with good results.

I also like to polish the truck with the Menzerna products and a RO buffer, gentle, safe, effective for minor problems like swirl marks the "professional" left behind. Nobody cares about your vehicle like you do and would charge an arm and a leg to work on the thing for a day or two, they gotta eat too.

If you really want to know how to DIY, call up Properautocare.com and ask those folks. They carry most of the finest products and are very helpful. Good luck and happy detailing.
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:35 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Re: What to Get to detail it right:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyboi
Why is it the best?

What do you use as your criteria?

The reason I ask is that I know many people that say this or that is the best only to find out that they've never tried anything else.

If you can convince me that it's really good I'll order some.
It is the best THAT I HAVE USE SO FAR. Did not say it is the best.

Criteria...Ease of use, end results, durability.

The reason I ask people to try this is because of the results that I have got using this product. I just trying to give your advice of trying a different product. How would they know if they never tried it?
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Old 05-01-2008, 04:56 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Re: What to Get to detail it right:

Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleRam
It is the best THAT I HAVE USE SO FAR. Did not say it is the best.

Criteria...Ease of use, end results, durability.

The reason I ask people to try this is because of the results that I have got using this product. I just trying to give your advice of trying a different product. How would they know if they never tried it?
Cool...Hey let me ask you the ultimate criteria question to seal the deal

If I were to put a coat on and say a 90 degree day in full sun, and I accidentally thought I heard something fall over in the fridge....So I open it up and see some beer in there. In order to be sure that the beer has has not been tampered with I test a few and then realize that I still have wax on the Titan.

How easily will it come off?
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