Well at least both sides match now...

[CoeCEO]

Some roundmouth decided to add a pinstripe. WTF!?

So angry....

[54warrior]

I literally gasped when I saw that. THAT SUCKS!!!

[CoeCEO]

Originally Posted by 54warrior

I literally gasped when I saw that. THAT SUCKS!!!

heres the other side...

[Buildwonder]

What's a roundmouth?

[Johnny08]

They are very high ?

Whats up? have you angered somebody lately ?

[Skyboi]

Let's look at this from a detailing point of view...

1. They look pretty deep so although buffing and compounding may "minimize" the scumbag scar,,,,,, it definitely won't make it disappear.

2. You can try to "build it up" with touch up paint and then buff it back down. Again, it won't be invisible but less visual.

3. Get it air brushed and blended...see # 2

4. Paint the entire door & .25

Sucks all the same though...I used to own a detailing business so let me know if you need any advise.

[Johnny08]

Originally Posted by Skyboi

Let's look at this from a detailing point of view...

1. They look pretty deep so although buffing and compounding may "minimize" the scumbag scar,,,,,, it definitely won't make it disappear.

2. You can try to "build it up" with touch up paint and then buff it back down. Again, it won't be invisible but less visual.

3. Get it air brushed and blended...see # 2

4. Paint the entire door & .25

Sucks all the same though...I used to own a detailing business so let me know if you need any advise.

Hey, I would be curious on your opinion for a few things.

1) Best overall wax/ polish ? for use with a porter cable 7242
2) technique on the above ? on your recommended polish if different from anything else.
3) best compound for small scratches (i.e. not deep like above) Black Titan
4) temperature for buffing ? how long to wait after the truck comes out of the sun ?


muchas garcias

[Johnny08]

ohhhh one more thing.
I just had a new window put into the passenger side front door of my titan, I have windex'ed the pis$ out of it but for some reason the water will not bead on that window, is there some sort of grease/ wax on it and if so what would you recommend to remove ?

Thx again.

[Skyboi]

Originally Posted by Johnny08

Hey, I would be curious on your opinion for a few things.

1) Best overall wax/ polish ? for use with a porter cable 7242
2) technique on the above ? on your recommended polish if different from anything else.
3) best compound for small scratches (i.e. not deep like above) Black Titan
4) temperature for buffing ? how long to wait after the truck comes out of the sun ?


muchas garcias

Thanks man for wanting my opinion...I'll try to help as best I can...It's one of those things though... Until you sling a buffer for awhile, you may not get where I'm comming from. So, here's my best explaination.

Wax and polish are 2 different things and need respect... Wax is just a finish coat but polish contains grit and can do damage. So the level of "polish" is contingient with the level of scratch in the clearcoat. Super light spiderweb type scratches can be removed with a glaze and some pressure using a foam pad. Now,pressure, product and other variables contribute to how well paint can be polished. So to your questions....

1. Best overall wax: I've said it quite a few times on this thread ... I love "Carnauba Bay" for it's ease of use, speed both on and off and lack of "issues" like sun and humidity. Link is here http://www.chem-quest.com/carnauba.htm
A; the porter cable you mentioned is a random orbital buffer. It tries to mimick your natural hand rubbing motion. This can be a problem if you have deep scratches or cloudy clearcoat because it does not "cut" the clearcoat evenly like a sander polisher...so it's more of a glazing detailer. I prefer to use that type of buffer as a "finisher" ...When I buff, I'm putting an even "scratch coat" over the entire vehicle to remove the scratches and make the finish consistant and then I'm removing the scratch coat with "finer" grit to polish the "new" surface.

2. Technique: Always apply whatever glaze or compound or liquid with an applicator. NEVER squirt it on and push it out with the buffer. If you do you will see the squirt mark after you buff. So, load up an applicator and use straight lines working from the center of the hood to the quarter panel making sure coverage is light and even. Like applying a skimcoat of grout to tile. Be quick and don't let it dry. Wet reduces friction and allows the product to do the work instead of having to apply too much pressure and possibly "burn" the paint. Work in straight lines (from the grille to the windshield) and work with the rotation of your machine. There's always a sweet spot.

3. God...you had to say black didn't you....I've said it before..Buffing on black is my last resort cause as soon as you touch it with a machine you see swirl for the rest of your ownership. Period. I'll call out anyone who says the can buff a car and make it "swirl free"... CAN'T BE DONE. Anytime you run a machine you cut into the clear and the clear is like a lens. SO I recommend going with a super light glaze because you can always go heavier but you can't put microns of paint thickness back. Make sure you use even coverage and pressure(not heavy). Keep it waxed often and you'll minimize the "swirl effect".

4. Temp?.. Feel the paint with the back of your hand...Should be room temp or cooler. I don't like working on warm paint for 2 reasons. 1. It's freakin too hot. 2. waxes, glazes and compounds dry out to fast and I have to keep reapplying them to keep them wet.

Sorry for the novel but I'm paranoid that if I give the wrong advise I'll have to wear the scarlet burger...But non the less I hope I'm helping someone.

Hey man, when in doubt.... Consult your best local guy... Good luck

[Arachnid]

That's really sad. Same thing happened to BlackBeauty. Some people just have no respect.

[Skyboi]

Originally Posted by Johnny08

ohhhh one more thing.
I just had a new window put into the passenger side front door of my titan, I have windex'ed the pis$ out of it but for some reason the water will not bead on that window, is there some sort of grease/ wax on it and if so what would you recommend to remove ?

Thx again.

Hmmmm...Sounds like a transit coating like cosmoline that is used on new vehicles to prevent rusting and it's a PIA to remove...May be similar but different at the same time. Cosmoline protects the paint from rust...This might protect the window from scratches in transit.

Try this.... Get a can of a "citrus" based degreaser and load up a sponge or rag...evenly apply it to the window so that it's not running down the window but is 'clinging" to it. (don't want it to run down into the door panel and smell)...Lightly push it around for a minute or 2 and wipe with a clean rag and then windex. Let me know if it worked. good luck.

[Johnny08]

Originally Posted by Skyboi

Hmmmm...Sounds like a transit coating like cosmoline that is used on new vehicles to prevent rusting and it's a PIA to remove...May be similar but different at the same time. Cosmoline protects the paint from rust...This might protect the window from scratches in transit.

Try this.... Get a can of a "citrus" based degreaser and load up a sponge or rag...evenly apply it to the window so that it's not running down the window but is 'clinging" to it. (don't want it to run down into the door panel and smell)...Lightly push it around for a minute or 2 and wipe with a clean rag and then windex. Let me know if it worked. good luck.

Thanks a lot for all your efforts above, they are just in time...I'm going to do a full wax this weekend and tackle the window as well.
Thanks again Skyboi
--Johnny

[Blackbeauty]

Gawd, I hate when this happens... No respect in the world anymore...

[Skyboi]

Feeling your pain also Beauty....I read that you got it as well....Sucks man.

[Blackbeauty]

Thanks Sky... I just wish the car alarm on these was a bit more sensitive... But then, when a strong wind blew, it'd be going off....

Just sad what you have to deal with these days...