Professional TIPS and TRICKS

[Skyboi]

Originally Posted by hooligan

skyboi, first off, kick aass instructional... 2nd off, what's the steel wool for and 3rd, what's done with the match after you cut it at an acute angle? you don't mention it again after you cut it, so just curious as to why you need to do that if you don't use the match.

Whooa..Hooligan hold up...We're on 2 different pages here...

No steel wool needed for paint chip repair....Just cut the matches and use them as a suedo paint applicator. Dip the tip in the paint and apply to the scratch...If you cut the angle sharp enough, it'll lay the paint right in the scratch with a bit of a hump above the "even" surface of the existing paint....When the paint begins to dry, it'll lay down and almost become even with the original paint. Sorry if I caused any confusion here.

MY BAD...I said dip the tip of the blade when I meant the cut match...I edited the instructions...Sorry again.

You can also use a syringe....But this takes some practice and a real steady hand....Not for the novice doing a home project.

[hooligan]

Originally Posted by Skyboi

Whooa..Hooligan hold up...We're on 2 different pages here...

No steel wool needed for paint chip repair....Just cut the matches and use them as a suedo paint applicator. Dip the tip in the paint and apply to the scratch...If you cut the angle sharp enough, it'll lay the paint right in the scratch with a bit of a hump above the "even" surface of the existing paint....When the paint begins to dry, it'll lay down and almost become even with the original paint. Sorry if I caused any confusion here.

MY BAD...I said dip the tip of the blade when I meant the cut match...I edited the instructions...Sorry again.

You can also use a syringe....But this takes some practice and a real steady hand....Not for the novice doing a home project.

LOL....

ya, i knew it had to be a farck up... i was like... dip the tip of the blade? then what's the point in cutting the match sticks... hahahaha...

also, i was just asking about the steel wool cause in this picture i see steel wool... just wondering what you use that for?

[Skyboi]

Steel wool is my last salvation when something won't "give it up".
But it has to be the fine stuff...0000 or (4 aught). Works great on windshields and tough areas but as all things...Gotta be careful with it.

Most things you see there are "always" in the bucket. I just grab it and go.

Low calcium car wash, non acid / plastic safe coil cleaner for the mags, Non butyl degreaser for the hard stuff &tires, rinse free surfactant, cheap tire dressing, citrus based debris remover....My basics

[MXtitan24]

subscribing

[IAPharmr]

This weekend will be my first clay barring experience, how long is the clay bar good for, should I throw it out after I do my truck? Can I use it several times? Is it good until i screw up and drop it?

[P's Titan]

Originally Posted by IAPharmr

This weekend will be my first clay barring experience, how long is the clay bar good for, should I throw it out after I do my truck? Can I use it several times? Is it good until i screw up and drop it?

it can be used several times. If you drop IMO you should replace it.

[Skyboi]

When you buy a clay bar...The first thing you should do is cut it in half.... This way if you do drop it...You're not out of the whole bar. You can continue to use it until it becomes too dirty...You should be able to look and feel the bar to determine how safe it will be to use on your vehicle....If you use it on a clean car and don't drop it...should last you 50 times.


Go here and follow these instructions. ; ]

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/1241122-post14.html

Good luck...

[QShip]

Originally Posted by Skyboi

OK..Let me try to make you understand that these products are nothing nothing more than water displacers that will only last a short time...

WD-40 stands for Water Displacement 40th attempt.

When the product is wet, it creates a surface tension tension that is like a sponge that will trap contaminants. These contaminants, like salt, iron, fallout,road grime etc...will attack the frame....

Here's what happens... You spray it on and it stays moist for a few days...as it drys it picks up every thing under the sun and adheres it to your frame in every nook and cranny. than you clean it where you can reach by bending over and spraying what you can easily reach with the gun...Then you reapply and the process begins again.

Here's the problem...The areas you can't clean become the theater of engagement for the corrosion process because the moisture you're trying to displace becomes imbedded in the gunk that you've collected and directly attacks the metals at an accellerated rate.

Like I said above, Clean and dry is the best way unless you plan on sealing your undercarraige with a professional coating.

I professionally advise not doing this.

I fully understand what WD-40 and PB Blaster are meant to do.

His results speak volumes. We live in NE and he has no rust under his truck. He keeps it parked outside and it is his daily driver.

So what am I missing?

[Skyboi]

As I stated above....Professionally speaking, I do not advise this as the proper way to prevent rust on the undercarraige.

It's the wrong product for the job. Square peg, round hole.

The last thing I would ever do is spend 5 hours detailing my truck or anyone elses an then spray a $4.00 can of PB Blaster all over my undercarriage, which ends up on everything else.

All I'm saying is that you're not going to solve a rust problem with a $4.00 can of water displacer.

If you add up the cans and the time you're losing... Just take the fish hooks out of your pocket and have it done right...

It's the wrong approach.....But good luck with that if that's what you choose to do.



EDIT...I sound a bit c0cky here....Not meant to be...I was in a hurry and wanted to get the reply out.. gotta go.

[grnTitan04]

Sky, This is somewhat related (undercoat) but possibly out of your realm. Here goes: Have you ever used the rattle-can undercoat you can get at most auto stores? I want to spot apply the problem areas, but I don't know what to do for surface prep such that I am not wasting my time.
Suggestions?

[Skyboi]

No problem...

There are a couple ways to go here with existing rust and rust prevention so here we go...

If you have existing rust you can do one of the following:

Method 1.
1. Clean the area from all debris, dirt, mud, etc...
2. asess the situation as to how bad the rust has moved through the area.
3. Break out the wire brush, sandpaper, file, grinder etc... and have at it... You must be sure to get it all down to "clean metal"
4. Clean again to prep surface for rubberized coating.
5. Tape and paper off area to prevent overspray
6. spray with light even coats letting dry between coats until it is sufficiently sealed to your satisfaction.

Method 2.
There are a few "rust converters" in the market that will change the makeup of rust back into an inert metal. I have used these in manufacturing plants when I used to work for a chemical manufacturer. They work great.

http://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Con...on-P40C10.aspx

Basically....Clean and dry the area...tape and paper off...Apply, and wait 24 hours.. Cures to a black finish and the rust is converted.

Important note though... This is not a "Pre" rust product... Only works on existing rust.

Now, onto "no rust" solutions

1. The rubberized undercoating in the cans will work alright but they won't last as long as a professional application.

Same basic principles apply.... Gonna need a few cans though to do it right.
1.Clean and dry the area,
2.Tape and paper it off to prevent overspray.
3. Work from the topside of what you want coated, then the sides farthest to you and then the bottoms. Remember that the standing water will most likely sit on the top and be held in corners where dirt and mug cling.

2. Using a water displacer alone won't cut it ...It needs to have a wax built in that will spread from using the water displacer as a cutting agent and allowing the wax to flow and the wax will "set up" and form a barrier against rust....This will need to be done every few months.

Clean up any overspray with either a good tar remover or Kerosene mixed with a little carwash soap.

Hope I was able to help you... Good luck and give me some feedback on your results so we can help the next guy...