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Anyone have a pic of a Titan with Weld wheels?

4K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  Demondw3 
#1 ·
Well, any Weld look alike that looks like this is fine too ;) :



Thanks!
- Nealio
 
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#2 · (Edited)
What's the lug pattern on your Titan? Also are your factory wheels hub or lug centric?

I love the Welds because they are one of the few that are Hub Centric for my truck anyway. I'm runnin the F1 Forged Cheyenne 8's.





Have you considered these?

http://www.weldracing.com/Weld_Racing/wheels/index.shtm

EDIT: ok I see you have a 6 lug so the wheel would look like this:


 
#4 · (Edited)
Check out the following:

USA Forged: Hub Centric, Forged, Look just like WELDs

http://www.superbuytires.com/wheels/brand/USA+Forged/

American Eagle: Lug Centric, Cast, and they have a WELD Velocity look alike.

Eagle 114's (under $200) but you get what you pay for.
 
#6 ·
buzzkillwill said:
Bear Hunter,

I've looked at your avatar tons of times, and I just now realized, there's a truck in the picture! :blush:
:huh: :rofl:
 
#7 ·
#8 · (Edited)
EDIT: Just noticed it was WELD Distributing....the Velocity look alikes are called Volts...you'll notice it doesn't say WELD on the rim. Its a great wheel for a great price...so you did good. The only difference between WELD and WELD Distributing is that the WELDs are Forged and the wheels from WELD Distributing are Cast Aluminum...hence the cost savings. Both are Hub Centric which is good.

...and they are 100x better than Eagle Alloys 114.
 
#9 ·
Bear Hunter said:
EDIT: Just noticed it was WELD Distributing....the Velocity look alikes are called Volts...you'll notice it doesn't say WELD on the rim. Its a great wheel for a great price...so you did good. The only difference between WELD and WELD Distributing is that the WELDs are Forged and the wheels from WELD Distributing are Cast Aluminum...hence the cost savings. Both are Hub Centric which is good.

...and they are 100x better than Eagle Alloys 114.
What is the difference between Forged and Cast Aluminum?
 
#10 ·
just some info about hub-centric and forged vs. cast wheels:

Centering
The other element that affects directly whether a wheel can be bolted onto a car is hubcentricity. Long ago, in the deep mists of time, wheels were located by the taper of the lug nuts or bolts. This could lead to all sorts of problems, but they can be summarized by saying centering was liable to be less than perfect, and the sheer stress on wheel bolts or studs could be enormous. I am not aware of any passenger car wheels now made that are not hubcentric. Hubcentric wheels have a hole at their center that fits closely over a round feature on the hub, serving to center the wheel on the axis of the spindle, as well as bear the vertical weight of the vehicle. The wheel bolts or studs then serve simply to hold the wheel onto the hub, and are loaded only in tension, where they are strong. If the studs were required to absorb vertical forces, they would be loaded in single shear, the weakest arrangement for any fastener. Factory wheels are all machined to fit their specific application exactly, and some of the better aftermarket wheels are, too. However, many aftermarket wheels rely on centering rings. This means that, instead of machining wheels specifically for each O.E. centering hole diameter, the wheel manufacturer machines all wheels to one size, and then uses inserts to give a centering surface of the diameter required for each application. This is obviously easier to do, and makes inventorying a complete wheel line much simpler and less costly. If you buy wheels that use centering rings, be sure the rings fit snugly in the wheels. If they are loose enough to fall out, how accurately can they be locating your wheel? Some tire shops automatically remove centering rings to balance a wheel, just to make sure there is no slop to make their balancing inaccurate.

The fact that a wheel physically bolts onto a car doesn't necessarily mean it "fits." The centering surface could be too large, in which case there essentially is no centering. Just as importantly, the offset could be wrong.

this site has some great info on the whole forged vs. cast discussion....(its a .pdf)

http://www.calcom.ch/News&Events/actives/eTip16.pdf
 
#11 ·
Griffey said:
I stuck with 18's instead of going for the 20's that I keep wishing I might have done.I was being cheap.Squeek ..squeek.
I am feeling the same way right now. I want 20's but may stick with 17's because I do not want to spend around 3.5k for the wheels/tires I want when I can spend about 2-2.4k for my 17" wheels/tires. I'm always searching for the best price for both sizes but its always the difference of 2-3 hundred bucks. Oh yeah I do like the rim choices shown. I was looking at the Dune 6 wheels or XD series 715 or Diesel.
 

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#13 ·
Demondw3 said:
I am feeling the same way right now. I want 20's but may stick with 17's because I do not want to spend around 3.5k for the wheels/tires I want when I can spend about 2-2.4k for my 17" wheels/tires. I'm always searching for the best price for both sizes but its always the difference of 2-3 hundred bucks. Oh yeah I do like the rim choices shown. I was looking at the Dune 6 wheels or XD series 715 or Diesel.
I thought the XD series are 8-lug only, are they not?
 
#15 ·
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