All right guys, I need your help changing wife's brakes...

FluxCubby · 05-04-2005, 10:56 AM

Please forgive me if this post is in the wrong forum.

First things first: My wife drives a 2002 Chrysler Sebring. The mechanic wants to charge me $551 to replace the brake pads on all four wheels, turn the rotors, and do a brake fluid "flush."

I need to say that I'm no car mechanic, but I'm not an idiot when it comes to using tools either.

So basically what I want to know is...
1. Can a beginner like me pull this off? (if so can I count on a little help now and then from the members here??)
2. Is it worth the trouble? Or would the money I be saving by buying my own parts not even be worth my time and effort.

I should tell you all that I have a pretty well stocked toolbox, with all the wrenchs, screwdrivers, hammers, etc. But I don't own any air tools, torque wrenches, or any other specialty tools that I might not even know I need to change the brakes.

Please help me out here. If it's not that hard, I just need the reassurance and I'll tackle the project. But we are talking about the BRAKES here, and I don't want to mess that up...

Lemme know. Thanks a million.

HavockWK · 05-04-2005, 11:01 AM

I don't see any reason why you can't replace the pads all the way around by yourself. I have done this on several cars before and it isn't hard. Athough none of the previous vehicles had ABS. Oh, and if it has rear drums, that increases the difficulty, but is still user serviceable.

You might try and find a good manual at the autoparts store like a Chilton or other. They usually have extremely good, detailed diagrams/instructions.

mtbendo · 05-04-2005, 11:43 AM

I usually do my own brakes. If they are all disc brakes, it should be "fairly" simple. Unless the discs are warped or pretty grooved, I usually don't cut them. Some cars require torx style sockets to get the caliper off but most are standard hex bolts. If the rear is drums, that's where the fun is. You'll need some specific brake tools to make your life easier (may be able to borrow/rent from the auto parts store). Never pull apart both sides at the same time. That way you can see how the springs are installed when putting one side together.

Like Havock said, get a good manual. It'll tell you where to grease, etc. Lastly, when doing the rear brakes, don't forget to release the parking brake. I'm not trying to insulting but I always get a good laugh when someone calls me because they can't get the rear drum/caliper off because the brake is still on.

FluxCubby · 05-04-2005, 01:29 PM

Hey guys,
Thanks for the help. I'm going to try to get my hands on a good manual and see if I can handle it. Any more help is much appreciated.

BLWedge09 · 05-04-2005, 01:47 PM

Here's somewhwere to order a repair manual if you can't find one locally. http://www.themotorbookstore.com/sebring.html

skyhammer · 05-04-2005, 03:00 PM

This is something to consider. Take your rig to the local high school auto shop. I just had my local high school replace both sets of rear leafsprings on my 85 Toyota. They were happy to have something to work on, and the price was free plus parts. I had some 4 runner leafs laying around so I had them use those.
About 5 years ago they replaced and resurfaced the rotors on my maxima, they did a good job. I might not have them do complex work but brakes and springs are pretty straight foward. I paid them with a half a dozen pizzas.
Just talk to the teacher, and have him point out a few of his top senior students. You would be surprised at how sharp some of these kids are.

kvoman · 05-04-2005, 03:44 PM

Check your owner's manual to see if the rotors have to stay on the vehicle when you're resurfacing them. If so, it may be cheaper to replace them with new aftermarket rotors from Kragen, etc.

You'll need a couple c-clamps to compress the pistons and some plastic sheets under the work area to prevent stains to the driveway. You need to get the pistons compressed to go over the new pads, once these are compressed and installed, you need to bleed the line to get rid of all the air bubbles and push the pads closer to the rotor. You'll need to have someone help you bleed the lines once the new pads have been installed, unless you have an automatic bleeder. Don't forget to have the right kind of brake fluid on hand (Dot 3, Dot 3/4, Dot 4, etc.).

The most important thing after the installation is to burnish the pads and rotors to prevent sqeaking afterwards. The pads have to be burned off with all the chemicals and junk and burned in to the new rotors so you basically have to find a long stretch of road and do this.

There are a number of ways to burnish pads, do a search and see which one you're comfortable with. You only get one chance to burnish a new set of pads to prevent sqeaking in the future.

Not hard but can be messy. Cat litter can do wonders for oil leaks!

VShortt · 05-04-2005, 04:36 PM

Also keep in mind that if you have rear discs, they usually do not just push back in with a c-clamp as you would do with the front. They have to twist because the piston is threaded and it requires a special tool that you must purchase or borrow from an auto parts store.

HavockWK · 05-04-2005, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VShortt

They have to twist because the piston is threaded and it requires a special tool that you must purchase or borrow from an auto parts store.

Or you can do it like I did on my 240SX and spend half an hour screwing them in with a pair of freakin needle nose because you had the car torn apart before you found out this interesting little piece of info!

FluxCubby · 05-05-2005, 07:36 AM

Thanks for all the info...I'll have to let you all know how it goes.

itrice · 05-05-2005, 08:04 AM

Or you could be an idiot

and think the rear calipers were froze as I just did on my sisters Lumina. I do not know if the are suppose to screw or not but if so I just replaced them for no reason. Oh well it was still a third of the cost the shop quoted her.

mtbendo · 05-05-2005, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HavockWK

Or you can do it like I did on my 240SX and spend half an hour screwing them in with a pair of freakin needle nose because you had the car torn apart before you found out this interesting little piece of info!

Been there, done that... After you screw up your pliers and stab yourself a couple times you'll learn to get yourself the right tool...

HavockWK · 05-05-2005, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtbendo

Been there, done that... After you screw up your pliers and stab yourself a couple times you'll learn to get yourself the right tool...

Yeah, those needle nose can puncture really easy if you're not careful. Man I hated that!