Has anyone used or tried mudjacking to raise the end of a concrete driveway. Over the last 12 years, the last few feet of concrete, right before the foundation lip leading into the garage, has dropped or settled about 3". Has anyone repaired this type of settling? It's a standard two car concrete driveway and the surface is in good shape with no cracks. The garage is attached to the house and is on the same foundation. This has become a nuisance everyday pulling into the garage since you now have to jump that 3" lip in order to get into the garage. Any ideas on cost associated with raising this concrete would be appreciated.
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Has anyone used or tried mudjacking to raise the end of a concrete driveway. Over the last 12 years, the last few feet of concrete, right before the foundation lip leading into the garage, has dropped or settled about 3". Has anyone repaired this type of settling? It's a standard two car concrete driveway and the surface is in good shape with no cracks. The garage is attached to the house and is on the same foundation. This has become a nuisance everyday pulling into the garage since you now have to jump that 3" lip in order to get into the garage. Any ideas on cost associated with raising this concrete would be appreciated.
Sounds like settling right at the floor of the garage away from main foundation..That is good--no foundation failure....the jacking will probably crack the driveway if done....Might be better to replace that section of concrete...Hopefully you have expansion joints to take it out in sections, if not , cut it with a concrete saw where you want and replace it that way.. Good luck..
You'll need a demo hammer to bust and remove what's sunken. Put your form in place, bed extensively with river sand then do your pour. Pouring 5" thick with a 3000 psi mix should put you at a couple of yards max. Job shouldn't run you over $300 if you do it yourself.
I just did a 14x32 patio only 3" deep due to no auto traffic on it.
You'll need a demo hammer to bust and remove what's sunken. Put your form in place, bed extensively with river sand then do your pour. Pouring 5" thick with a 3000 psi mix should put you at a couple of yards max. Job shouldn't run you over $300 if you do it yourself.
I just did a 14x32 patio only 3" deep due to no auto traffic on it.
I don't like to disagree, but river sand will hold too much water and frost will destroy it through heaving and thaw. He's in the Chicago area. That means COLD! The real determinator of good concrete work always depends on the base. It needs to be solid, stable and well-compacted. Apparently the compaction was lacking at the time of the original installation. Even so, frost heave will still wreak havoc. A good stable aggregate base of AASHTO #57 stone is a better base than sand unless you're in the South. Base thickness based on local code design requirements is key along with good compaction. But yes, I would agree, the best repair is a replacement.
I don't like to disagree, but river sand will hold too much water and frost will destroy it through heaving and thaw. He's in the Chicago area. That means COLD! The real determinator of good concrete work always depends on the base. It needs to be solid, stable and well-compacted. Apparently the compaction was lacking at the time of the original installation. Even so, frost heave will still wreak havoc. A good stable aggregate base of AASHTO #57 stone is a better base than sand unless you're in the South. Base thickness based on local code design requirements is key along with good compaction. But yes, I would agree, the best repair is a replacement.
True in the north. Sand is used in the south where is doesn't freeze. So yeah in chicago , sand is not the ideal substrate, but nothing else is used south of NC.
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I am a big fan of putting rebar & steel mesh in concrete. I let one guy talk me into using concrete with entrained fiberglass reinforcement instead of mesh & rebar. Of course it broke up.
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