does it ride that much better with the sway bar off??? mine's still on and it seems like it rides fine...
you free the front wheels from themselves and allow them to articulate without fighting the other wheel. the swaybar which is attached to the frame is in a sense connected to both left and right wheel. if one end is encountering an obstacle of some sort it causes the other end to fight. if the swaybar is intended to limit motion and keep the vehicle stiff on flat surfaces you can see where its a hindrance when offroading where both front wheels want to be free and independent from the other. the ride is almost night and day with the bar removed. you get a little more roll on normal street driving but its acceptable considering how it rides in uneven, rough terrain. if you get aftermarket coilovers usually the higher spring rate will help compensate the increased roll you get on turns from removing the sway bar.
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born 12/3, purchased 1/4 '04 Smoke SE KC PRG MT kit, CST spindles, PRG Spec'd SAWs 2.5" C/Os w/Eibachs, SAW Airbumps, Deaver 3" springpack, PRG 1" billet blocks, Radflo 2.0 remote res shocks, PRG shackles, CST carrier bearing, PRG Offroad traction bars, 37x12.5x17 BFG All-Terrains, American Racing Mojave Teflons, 35w DDM HID low beams, SpinTech Pro Street custom exhaust, AEM CAI w/DryFlow Filter, IonicDynamics FRP prerunner fenders, front windshield tinted, Optima Yellow Top, Pioneer AVH-4100DVD w/ipod adapter connected to 160gb iPod, Sirius, HD radio tuner, Hertz 6.5" Components front, Boston 6.5" rear, Boston G1 10" subs, tech12 sub enclosure, Alpine amps, Eclipse BEC106 backup camera, TrueTrac, regeared from 2.94s to 4.11s...
is it a pain to take the whole thing off or can i just unbolt it from the tie rods or whatever it is they're called?
Dont touch your tie rods (tie rods are for steering)!!! LOL It's super easy man. Take the end links off then the 4 bolts that connect it to the frame. You dont even need to jack it up. Just make sure the truck is on level ground.
is it a pain to take the whole thing off or can i just unbolt it from the tie rods or whatever it is they're called?
unless you gots aftermarket coilovers of some sort i wouldn't take the sway bar off. the roll from what a few have said in the past is pretty intolerable if you are just rolling stock crap in the front.
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born 12/3, purchased 1/4 '04 Smoke SE KC PRG MT kit, CST spindles, PRG Spec'd SAWs 2.5" C/Os w/Eibachs, SAW Airbumps, Deaver 3" springpack, PRG 1" billet blocks, Radflo 2.0 remote res shocks, PRG shackles, CST carrier bearing, PRG Offroad traction bars, 37x12.5x17 BFG All-Terrains, American Racing Mojave Teflons, 35w DDM HID low beams, SpinTech Pro Street custom exhaust, AEM CAI w/DryFlow Filter, IonicDynamics FRP prerunner fenders, front windshield tinted, Optima Yellow Top, Pioneer AVH-4100DVD w/ipod adapter connected to 160gb iPod, Sirius, HD radio tuner, Hertz 6.5" Components front, Boston 6.5" rear, Boston G1 10" subs, tech12 sub enclosure, Alpine amps, Eclipse BEC106 backup camera, TrueTrac, regeared from 2.94s to 4.11s...
you free the front wheels from themselves and allow them to articulate without fighting the other wheel. the swaybar which is attached to the frame is in a sense connected to both left and right wheel. if one end is encountering an obstacle of some sort it causes the other end to fight. if the swaybar is intended to limit motion and keep the vehicle stiff on flat surfaces you can see where its a hindrance when offroading where both front wheels want to be free and independent from the other. the ride is almost night and day with the bar removed. you get a little more roll on normal street driving but its acceptable considering how it rides in uneven, rough terrain. if you get aftermarket coilovers usually the higher spring rate will help compensate the increased roll you get on turns from removing the sway bar.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hooligan
unless you gots aftermarket coilovers of some sort i wouldn't take the sway bar off. the roll from what a few have said in the past is pretty intolerable if you are just rolling stock crap in the front.
I've got the CST spindle lift with SAW coilovers, so i'm not stock. Should I pull the whole thing off or just unbolt it and tie it up out of the way?
Quote:
Originally Posted by rynomx785
Dont touch your tie rods (tie rods are for steering)!!! LOL It's super easy man. Take the link bars off then the 4 bolts that connect it to the frame. You dont even need to jack it up. Just make sure the truck is on level ground.
LOL, I guess I shouldn't touch the tie rods then. I'll know what it is when I look at it, just don't know what it's called
I've got the CST spindle lift with SAW coilovers, so i'm not stock. Should I pull the whole thing off or just unbolt it and tie it up out of the way?
LOL, I guess I shouldn't touch the tie rods then. I'll know what it is when I look at it, just don't know what it's called
perfect! and its the endlinks you are referring to... if you remove the tie rods you're either going duckfooted or you're snowplowing... either way not quite conducive for driving straight...
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born 12/3, purchased 1/4 '04 Smoke SE KC PRG MT kit, CST spindles, PRG Spec'd SAWs 2.5" C/Os w/Eibachs, SAW Airbumps, Deaver 3" springpack, PRG 1" billet blocks, Radflo 2.0 remote res shocks, PRG shackles, CST carrier bearing, PRG Offroad traction bars, 37x12.5x17 BFG All-Terrains, American Racing Mojave Teflons, 35w DDM HID low beams, SpinTech Pro Street custom exhaust, AEM CAI w/DryFlow Filter, IonicDynamics FRP prerunner fenders, front windshield tinted, Optima Yellow Top, Pioneer AVH-4100DVD w/ipod adapter connected to 160gb iPod, Sirius, HD radio tuner, Hertz 6.5" Components front, Boston 6.5" rear, Boston G1 10" subs, tech12 sub enclosure, Alpine amps, Eclipse BEC106 backup camera, TrueTrac, regeared from 2.94s to 4.11s...
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