Drive train clunk - Page 7

JetTech · 07-23-2004, 01:56 PM

to be honest I'm not sure what my next Titan project will be. I'm sure glad this one is working out as well as it is for everyone. I had the springs on several months before I said anything just to make sure there wouldn't be any hidden surprises.

Other than rotor warpage, of which the fix I found was to lower the wheel torque to 85 and the clunking rear-end noise, I really can't think of anything else. Any ideas?? I'm always up for a challenge.....

37L1 · 07-23-2004, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JetTech

Any ideas?? I'm always up for a challenge.....

More power Scotty!!!!

JetTech · 07-23-2004, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 37L1

More power Scotty!!!!

Now that you mention it there is one thing I've been researching along those lines. I'll make sure to tell everyone after I've tested it for several months. I don't want to be too hasty.....

37L1 · 07-23-2004, 06:23 PM

Now you're a big teaser aren't you?????

I'll have to wait until you're satisfied with the testing process I guess!

titanwild · 07-25-2004, 03:19 PM

Thanks JetTech and all that added info this post! Super Solution!!
My clunk was noticeable but only occasionally on light acceleration from dead stop. It bothered the !@$# out of me. Dealer surmised that it was rear axle windup, but wouldn't commit to a fix. I didn't think there was anything abnormal on braking.
Well, after installation of the helpers (took about an hour, but I'm really pokey), the Clunk is gone, and what I assumed was a normal drivetrain bump on braking is also gone. I used the Superior spring helpers, $20.00 from Autozone, virtually identical to the Dynachrome set.
Benefits: No Clunk!!, rear has been lowered at bit, 3/4" measured from top of tire to highest point of wheel-well opening, rear suspension is just a bit firmer and the rubbery feeling from the rear is completely gone. Surprisingly, I could immediately notice the change in truck's ride attitude from the driver's seat. Picture shows current installation.
Unlike you, I'm going to remove the helpers, but will replace them with a custom set that's powder-coated with an improved front bracket (I have a machine shop at my disposal). Then they will become permanent! Will post more pics when done.

Whatever they pay you, it's not enough!!

Dale

juma · 07-25-2004, 04:51 PM

works great! howja ever come up with this solution?? juma

Tony · 07-25-2004, 07:22 PM

It Works.
Only a subtle stiffening of the rear end suspension. Does indeed feel more responsive.
I can’t say with certainty but it may have reduced the drive shaft “bang” resulting when shifting from drive to reverse and vice versa. That would be great.
Slick solution for several ills.
Love these JetTrax.

JetTech · 07-26-2004, 06:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by titanwild

Thanks JetTech and all that added info this post! Super Solution!!
My clunk was noticeable but only occasionally on light acceleration from dead stop. It bothered the !@$# out of me. Dealer surmised that it was rear axle windup, but wouldn't commit to a fix. I didn't think there was anything abnormal on braking.
Well, after installation of the helpers (took about an hour, but I'm really pokey), the Clunk is gone, and what I assumed was a normal drivetrain bump on braking is also gone. I used the Superior spring helpers, $20.00 from Autozone, virtually identical to the Dynachrome set.
Benefits: No Clunk!!, rear has been lowered at bit, 3/4" measured from top of tire to highest point of wheel-well opening, rear suspension is just a bit firmer and the rubbery feeling from the rear is completely gone. Surprisingly, I could immediately notice the change in truck's ride attitude from the driver's seat. Picture shows current installation.
Unlike you, I'm going to remove the helpers, but will replace them with a custom set that's powder-coated with an improved front bracket (I have a machine shop at my disposal). Then they will become permanent! Will post more pics when done.

Whatever they pay you, it's not enough!!

Dale

That's a good idea to have them modified, lucky guy with a machine shop at your disposal!!! After looking at your pic, you may want to slide them back just a little to give more clearance between the front of the helper spring and the front main spring bushing. I had mine slid a little too far forward initially and the front of the helper spring took a little paint off the bushing area. Just a thought.....

JetTech · 07-26-2004, 06:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by juma

works great! howja ever come up with this solution?? juma

I knew what the problem was but the fix perplexed me for a while. I e-mailed several manufacturers of traction bars but got no response. So I happened to be cruising my local Advance Auto Parts one day and noticed these springs. Luck I guess...........

alex55p · 07-26-2004, 10:36 AM

Just wanted to know if the dealers will give you a problem with having this. I mean if you go in for wraped roter problem they will say it because of the bar. Does anyone have any experience on this. Would I have to take them off if I go to the dealer.
Thanks

Masa · 07-26-2004, 10:58 AM

JetTech, I can't wait to install the helpers, but I have this rattle coming from the front passenger side either in the dash area or from the floor or somewhere that sounds like mettal to metal rattle. It happens only when accelerating or there's load on the drive train such as when going up hill. I'm afraid if I installed helpers, it might become more difficult for a Nissan tech to duplicate the rattle...

TallTexan · 07-26-2004, 01:49 PM

Masa, Just a heads up of where I found my rattle that I thought was comming from the dash. One was in the glass holders in the overhead console and the other was the hood rattling because the rubber spacers were not adjusted properly to keep the hood tight. Maybe not your problem but just a couple of items to eliminate.

JetTech · 07-26-2004, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Masa

JetTech, I can't wait to install the helpers, but I have this rattle coming from the front passenger side either in the dash area or from the floor or somewhere that sounds like mettal to metal rattle. It happens only when accelerating or there's load on the drive train such as when going up hill. I'm afraid if I installed helpers, it might become more difficult for a Nissan tech to duplicate the rattle...

sorry masa, without me being there and hearing it for myself I wouldn't even want to take a guess because there's a whole bunch of things under the dash and overhead that could cause a rattle. The only thing I can recommend is to have someone else drive your truck while you ride shotgun and start listening and poking around. A mechanics stethascope is an excellent thing to buy at most any parts shop and are worth their weight in gold for things such as this. I've been able to narrow down many noises using this method in the past on other vehicles.....Good luck!!

titanwild · 07-26-2004, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JetTech

That's a good idea to have them modified, lucky guy with a machine shop at your disposal!!! After looking at your pic, you may want to slide them back just a little to give more clearance between the front of the helper spring and the front main spring bushing. I had mine slid a little too far forward initially and the front of the helper spring took a little paint off the bushing area. Just a thought.....

OK Jet, I kinda wondered about that too, but thought maybe they would more effective if actually bearing on the front spring mount. I'm electrical, not mechanical! Will move 'em back just a bit. I'm still amazed at the difference in ride.
Thanks again!
Dale

GETSOMZ28 · 07-26-2004, 10:14 PM

Thanks for the mod! I havent noticed any clunk in the drivetrain, but for $30 it is cheap insurance!!