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Won't Start After Battery Replaced

56K views 70 replies 15 participants last post by  lknbigfish 
#1 ·
I decided to replace the battery in my 04 Titan because the old one got drained at the beach, I would charge it up and then it would die, truck just wouldn’t start, but you would here the “clicking”.

I purchased a new battery, installed it, and now nothing… I only hear a single click from the fuse area on the passenger side. I did the IPDM test, and everything worked. Battery is at 12.58, even had it tested at the parts store where I bought it.

So now I have to believe it is the starter, the ignition switch or maybe the security? Is there a way to test the starter or ignition without ripping the engine apart? With the security, the light does continue to flash when I try to start it; is that normal? And I have the FOB-less Titan, no power doors or locks, so I don’t believe the key is an issue.

Just trying to eliminate causes so I can replace what needs to be replaced and not guess…..Thanks for any help…
 
#2 ·
Check the fuse on the positive power terminal.

It very well may be the security. My wife's Murano did the same thing after I replaced the battery. I can't remember what the reset method was though. It was something simple like locking the doors, and then unlocking with the key, but I can't remember for sure, sorry.

You could possibly just unhook the battery for a couple of hours and then try again.
 
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#3 ·
..... I would charge it up and then it would die, truck just wouldn’t start, but you would here the “clicking”.

I purchased a new battery, installed it, and now nothing… I only hear a single click from the fuse area on the passenger side. …
Sounds like you might have an electrical issue other than the battery. Got anything plugged into the driver side cig lighter?? It's always hot and anything plugged into it will drain the battery. What battery did you get and what aftermarket electrical stuff do you have (Audio, Video, Trailer Hitch, etc)??
 
#8 ·
Your key still has a chip inside it. I'd say check for power at the starter, but it's buried as you know.....I'm still going to say it's the starter.
Like all electrical issues, check fuses and connections first.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I'm guessing, but those are not Nissan keys. I'm also guessing that when you replaced the battery the security feature "came back" and now won't work without a "chipped coded" key. Go to a Nissan dealer and check with them or whatever dealer you bought this truck from.

If it were the starter, you probably would have had "difficulties" prior to it going out altogether.

But hey, what do I know?

If you have an XE KC then you don't have the chip key. If you have an XE CC, with the popular package, then you have the chip key. If you have an SE or LE, you have the chip key.

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-general-discussion/47995-chip-keys.html

Only other thing is, did you get the right replacement battery? My Titan takes a group 27F.
 
#19 ·
Your dealer was mistaken. The vehihicle immobilizer system, which is what you're talking about , was only available on XEs if they had the PR (XE prefered package). That was not available at all XEs, only on the Crew Cab models.
That was from the thread posted.
 
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#20 ·
Does that make the flashing "Security Indicator Light" a dummy light? I guess I'm still thinking some issue with the immobilizer because the "Security Indicator Light" continues to flash when the key is in the "ON" position.

Could someone check to see if their "Security Indicator Light" continues to flash when the key is set to the "ON" position? THANKS!
 
#25 ·
I know, that is why I am just trying to rule everything out. And there is no easy way to test the starter either. Just hard to believe it's the starter, truck was great until I changed out the battery.

Thanks for all the help, I appreciate it...
 
#29 ·
Looking at the wiring diagram in the PDF, if they installed the starter shutoff option that would cause your problem. When you removed the battery the Alarm module 'lost' its programing and the starter relay would not engage.

Check the alarm unit to see if there are wires on the pins that are the relay contacts for the starter. If there are remove them and connect them together. This should allow voltage to the starter when the ignition is turned on.
 
#30 ·
I think that alarm has a remote start feature and if was used which it seems possible keep checking under the dash for a factory chipped key. Back in the day and still today people on a budget will use the factory chip in the key taped to the immobilizer instead of a bypass module to make the remote start feature work. It sounds ghetto but lots of installers do it.
 
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#33 ·
Don't know about that particular alarm system, but in another system/vehicle, I know that disconnecting the wires/harness will not necessarily allow it to start. If there is a starter interrupt circuit, (basically a cut wire from the vehicle harness, with each end of that wire going into the alarm brain, and to be connected by the relay each time you start the vehicle) you will need to reconnect that wire back together. It could be a shifter indicator wire, that will not show it is in park, or a wire from the ignition switch itself...
 
#35 ·
I removed the harness and found where the brown wire in the ignition had been cut and the relay attached. Removed the relay and spliced the brown wire back together.....still nothing. Tested the ignition and got 12+ volts when attempting to start. This is just frustrating now....

What am missing?
 
#36 ·
There are two optional relays according to the PDF. It's possible that one or more of those relays could be used to provide additional "don't start" signals. Look for possible relays connected to the Gray and White/Red wires in the alarm wiring harness. There may be some additional wires that need splicing similar to the starter wire.
 
#37 · (Edited)
I removed 4 relays and have triple checked to ensure no more wires are spliced, and still nothing. I did notice this bundle of wires with the same tape used to wrap the alarm with and connect to the body control module. I guess I need to unwrap to see if something spliced...
 

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#39 ·
i see at least two butt connectors in your photo, these need to be checked for continuity. What you should look for is a wire that has been cut and routed through relay contacts. The relay in turn being controlled by the alarm module. It is possible that the original installer routed the shifter park sense wire through a relay (just like the starter wire) as an additional guard against a thief starting the vehicle.

You may need a vehicle wiring diagram and on-site assistance from an electronics engineer to get this truck started.

I really despair of owners installing aftermarket 'gadgets' with little thought to what happens at trade-in. This one was a hidden bomb waiting to go off when ever the battery needed to be disconnected for some reason. The original owner should have left some indication that the alarm system was installed and some directions pointing to how it worked. Better yet, he should have de-installed before passing the vehicle on.
 
#40 ·
Another concern to add onto eakes' reply is what if a Relay has gone bad. For example I had a Porsche Boxster that the convertible top got stuck and wouldn't move. It duplicated as if the Parking Brake wasn't set so I traced in the wiring diagrams from the Parking Brake Sensor to a relay then learned the pins from the rely. I bent out the prong from the Parking Brake Sensor and used a wire to connect that bent out prong to the pos+ feed prong (basically bypassed the parking brake) and the top began working again and no longer required the Parking Brake to be set when moving it up or down. It's easy for a sensor or relay to blow and it's a ***** to find it when it does.
 
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