Bought the oil, filter, got everything ready, anticipating a pleasureable time . . . just me and my truck. Hmmm . . . there seems to be a pan in the way, . . . ok, removed that. Applied filter wrench. That's when my world turned to pure "filter-wrench" hell. Yeah, I've been down this road before, over the years. I've really screwed up some stuck oil filters in my day. But, now I'm a lot older and it's cold out there on the ground. I'm figuring some of you younger guys have come across this problem and have a better way of dealing with it. I'd rather not invest in any more tools, such as a chain wrench (I don't have trouble getting them off when I put them on ). . . but I have used those when I was in the military. But, if that's what you suggest, or any other tool, I'll gladly consider it. Thanks for your help. Gary
Is this your first oil change??? i've heard 1st time oil change filter battles, but i belive that it is probably just factory over-tightned (hehehehhe even robots mess up).
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Never mind guys (or gals!). After warming up and going back out to take another look at the offending filter, I got out my trusty 17" Channel Lock pliers and within the small operating space I had, off it came!! Reply if you wish, I'm always game to learn something new. Gary
I did the punch hole with screwdriver because at the time I did not have an filter wrench to fit it. It worked but was still a pain, not a lot of room around the filter. I would try something else if I were you.
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Some big arse (probably 15" long) channel locks worked great! But, I get to do my oilchanges at work in a nice heated factory and use their tools and used oil drum!
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2005 XE, "Land Shark",1/4 MILE: 13.851 AT 98.52 Full Street Trim on Snow Tires Record HolderBuild date 3/05
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Save yourself a ton of trouble and use a small rubber strap wrench. You often see them sold in pairs from Allied, etc... one larger and one smaller. The smaller one will allow you to get the handle up in the tight spot and turn it enough to break the filter loose. You still have to apply correct pressure/tension to get a bite, but it will grab surprisingly well. When you replace filter, hand tighten ONLY 1-2 turns after contact. I do this on all my vehicles and have no problems. Also, point front end downhill helps oil run off drip ramp without getting too much on stabilizer bar. Good luck!
Phooey! take it you the dealer and let some other chump skin his knuckles for the first oil change. If you already drained it, fill it back up. Take it to the dealer, walk to, or catch a ride to the nearest pub, read the funnies and have a cold beverage while some ASE certified chap hates you. After that, change your own lube.
I did the punch hole with screwdriver because at the time I did not have an filter wrench to fit it. It worked but was still a pain, not a lot of room around the filter. I would try something else if I were you.
i had to do the same. i couldn't believe how tight it was.
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2005 CC Titan 4x4 Blizzard White *** SE Popular Package w/ Captain's *** Utility Bed Package w/ Bed Extender *** Offroad Package *** Big Tow Package *** Valentine 1 (hardwired) *** Clifford Matrix RSX 3.5 Alarm + Remote Start *** Amsoil Synthetic motor & gear oil *** 20% Sun-Guard *** Weathertech front floor liners *** Truxedo Lo Pro *** Husky rear floor liner *** HID 4300k Denso/Koito/Philips *** Vulite LED taillights *** Luminarc yellow foglight bulbs *** Scangauge II *** overhead racks w/ kayak attachment *** DR coilovers *** DR rear 4x4 shocks
WANTING TO SELL: bed extender adapter for tonneau covers (i.e. Truxedo)
Found the cross referenced oil filter at Walmart, unboxed it, tried several of the over the end octagon filter wrenches, (3/8" socket wrench drive), and found the perfect fit. Fortunately it also fits the Nissan filters that I used. Actually a very tight fit. BTW, Oil/filter change is very easy on the OR pkg. (skid plate has a filter access panel with 4 hex screws), however rear and front diff. fluid change is even easier, and transfer-case is very easy too (but messy in the wind due to the thin D-matic fluid).
Note: J-matic or equivalent is required for our automatic transmission, not compatible/interchangeable with D-matic.
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