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Cajun Axle Vent ?

7K views 35 replies 16 participants last post by  Stymees'mont 
#1 ·
So like so many others out there, I installed the Cajun Axle Vent mod almost 2 years ago. I changed the gear oil at that time as well. Since then I've put over 50K on her. I'm getting ready to put in some fresh lube this spring if not sooner. I'm not having any issues or anything that I'm aware of...Should I replace the vent in the axle vent mod ever? If so, how often? I think I've read on here that guys do change them. Please let me know! Thanks!
 
#2 ·
You shouldn't need to replace the nipple screwed into the axle housing. You could replace the filter at the taillight end of the hose, but if its still flowing freely, there should be no need. Just check it with a bicycle pump or turn your regulator down on your compressor. No need to blow out the filter checking it.
 
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#3 ·
Yes, I was referring to the filter by the taillight. Thanks!
 
#4 ·
Did you get any rear axle seal leaks in those 50k miles? Thinking about doing this mod but in another thread some are saying it's worthless.
 
#7 ·
I would say a truck with a blown out rear would be slightly more "worthless" than a simple, cheap and proven modification.

Frankly, there's no reason not to do this. Anyone who hasn't, especially with higher mileage/abused trucks is unnecessarily putting their axle at risk.
 
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#5 ·
Did you get any rear axle seal leaks in those 50k miles? Thinking about doing this mod but in another thread some are saying it's worthless
None
 
#8 ·
Berto, all I can tell you is that I've been around trucks for decades, and I've owned a dozen or so. I use all mine like trucks - hauling loads, pulling trailers, going places no self-respecting car weenie would attempt to go. I've been stuck a few times, I've been close to being stuck a bunch of times, and I've torn up and fixed trucks in the woods and on the side of the road enough to know what is and isn't worthless.

This vent mod addresses two primary flaws in the factory vent system. First, that vent is mounted on the axle. That's too low, in my opinion. The front diff vent is terminated up on the firewall, I believe, or perhaps the inner fender, but well above the axle housing. There's a good reason to move the vent up above the axle housing: Water. So this mod provides you with some added insurance that water intrusion will not be an issue for your rear diff. On old 4x4 trucks, this is one of the first mods we did to bone stock trucks. Back in the day, we would run a line from the rear diff and the front diff, up to a metal T-fitting on the firewall, and then attach a valve cover breather to that. With the T, it's easier to just vent the rear diff up into the taillight housing, with a fuel filter to act as a dust/bug barrier.

Second, this vent mod eliminates the very real, often experienced, closure of the factory vent from oil residue, dust, and crud, which plugs up the little covered valve in the factory vent. What generally happens is that the valve becomes essentially clogged, but when pressure builds inside the diff, it pushes the air out through the clog. The bad news is, when the diff cools back down and pressure drops, the valve's natural position won't allow air to be sucked through the crud, so you end up with negative pressure inside the housing, which then pulls on the seals and contributes to premature failure. I'm pretty sure not all the seal failures are from the vent sticking, but it's a contributing factor in enough of them that a cheap mod which eliminates that possibility is worth doing. The guys bellyaching about it being "worthless" don't understand enough of physics in the real world (based on my discussions with them on this board) to understand why the factory vent doesn't function flawlessly all the time. In a perfect world, like a clean room, that factory vent would function perfectly all the time. But in reality, it gets dust, gunk, grime, and crud on it, and it clogs.

I highly recommend this mod. You can do it one of two ways. You can source the parts yourself - using the Nissan threaded hose barb which fits perfectly, some fuel line, zip ties, and a fuel filter without a check valve (total cost ~$20-25) - or you can buy the pre-packaged kit from Cajun and just install it (total cost ~$40). It's up to you how you proceed, but I highly recommend this mod. It's easy, carries no risk of harm except to your knuckles during the install, and provides a couple of good benefits you don't get with the factory vent.
 
#9 ·
I did mine shortly after I got my truck, first thing I did to it. My truck hadn't been driving in about 24 hours and when I unscrewed the factory vent to remove it, you could hear one heck of a rush of air. That pretty much confirmed to me that I was doing the right thing by doing this mod as my truck had been sitting plenty long enough that the pressure should've equalized and it hadn't.
 
#11 ·
I worked for Ford for awhile in the early 2000's and they had a TSB for the rear diffs to remove the factory vent from the top of the diff and install a kit to move it up near the spare tire. If this is something company engineers had the shops do, then I would not say it was worthless.
 
#14 ·
this is the tygon
Tygon 2375, Ultra Chemical Resistant 1/4 x 3/8" Tubing, 50Ft
Formulation: Tygon 2375
Applications: For use with highly aggressive chemicals– acids, bases, ketones, salts, and alcohols.
Characteristics: Plasticizer free, smoother inner surface, hydrophobic, minimal outgassing, safe disposal via incineration, and nontoxic. Transparent.
Certifications: NSF 51 Standard and tubing is manufactured according to GMP.
Temperature range: –108 to 130°F (–78 to 54°C)
Sterilize: Ethylene oxide or gamma irradiati

this is the norprene
1/4" ID x 7/16" OD x 3/32" Wall Excelprene TPE Industrial Grade Tubing
Excelprene TPE Industrial Grade Tubing is high-performance tubing manufactured from a thermoplastic elastomeric compound that consistently outperforms neoprene, EPDM and other general purpose rubber tubing products. It provides extended service in a wide variety of applications, without weakening or cracking, and can withstand extreme temperatures from -75°F to 275°F. Typical applications for Excelprene TPE Industrial Grade Tubing include caustic dispensing, wastewater sampling, soap and disinfectant dispensing, transferring printing ink, glass and window washing systems and more. Equivalent to Tygon® Norprene A-60-G. Long service life with peristaltic pumps. Excellent flexural fatigue resistance and it resists cracking when used in vacuum systems. Abrasion resistant, as well as being resistant to light and ozone. Durometer hardness is 64 shore A. Specific Gravity is .970. Tensile strength is 1000 psi. Elongation at break is 375%.
 
#18 ·
Okay axle vent installed, took about an hour with a break for supper in there, Mine is a 2014 2WD CC, SL, with about 27K miles, and when I removed the factory vent it sucked in some air, so that tells me my fairly new vent was not working, glad I saw this thread, cheap fix to prevent greater problems later
 
#19 ·
Anyone else have problems getting the Cajun supplied nipple to thread in. I tried for a half an hour or so to get it to thread in with no success. Old vent went in and out without any problems? PRG site mentions their kit changed to BSP threaded nipple for a easier fit. Is the Cajun nipple a BSP thread? Found another nipple online with 1/8 BSPT threads that I ordered....hope that works.
 
#21 ·
I'm going to do mine soon but I'm just going to pop the cap off the oem vent and put the hose on there..but what I noticed the other day changing out a turn signal bulb is that from the trails I've done. There's was ALOT of dirt up in this area. I even grabbed a little brush and brush some off of the tail light housing. Now I'm worried. If that much dirt can get up there. Won't the filter you put at the end of the hose and up behind the tail light get clogged up pretty quickly causing the same issue as the stock vent?
 
#25 ·
Well I've read on some older posts on this forum of a few members doing it with no problems instead of going from dealer to dealer trying to find the part. And with the experiences I've had they either want you to buy the whole box they order or rape you for one. Like this pigtail we needed for a friend's toyota. They didn't do single orders so they wanted us buy the whole box which came with 25 of them or they will order one and we'd have to pay like 40 for it. Ended up finding it at a pick a part. 7$. . As long as there is enough to use a small hose clamp I should be good so as long as it's nice and tight. Isn't that why you have to leave a good amount of slack anway? Wether I do it the cheap way or piece a kit or order Cajuns kit if it's not on there tight or not enough slack it's gunna rip off regardless.

Nightowl that's true it isn't suckling in air just a filter to keep cap out.
 
#26 ·
But then I again I haven't really looked under..hmm.. is there a way to take the cap off and still be able to put it back on ? Or is it irreversible? That way I can know how much I truly got to play with?

How many have you used the toyota part I forgot the part # but it's the biggest of em.
 
#28 ·
I used the Toyota part, dealership ordered for me, only cost like $6.
 
#30 ·
Really $6 ? Got a part # so I can go to a local Toyota dealer see what they tell me and how much.
 
#29 ·
Might want to check the tubing if yours can touch the exhaust like mine
 
#31 ·
9040451026 got mine off eBay
 
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