Kronos, I have been told by many frame shops/body shops that any vehicle (at least here in cali) that has had any kind of frame alterations/modifications should be classified as a salvage title. Haven't you seen all the low rider trucks with the hacked frames? Why do you think they sell them for so little? Salvage title. I was looking at a chevy dually a while back, and I wanted one already slammed and bagged. But I was told by my insurance company that they would not insure it for fair market value due to the frame being altered, and thay told me it should have a salvage title. Not sure if the owner knew that though.
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2006 4X4 LE OR CST 7" Lift, RadFlo 2.5 coilovers, PRG Uppers, RadFlo 2.0 rears, Deaver 2.5 mini pack, 3" custom block, PRG traction bars, K&N Intake, 2* advance, Custom Supertrapp exhaust, XE mirror covers and door handles, 17X8 AR Mojave Teflon's, 35/12.50R17 Toyo Mud Terrains, Bushwacker fender flares, Custom one off front tube bumper.
yellomantis, again, i'm going with kronos on this one. during my accident resolution with state farm (mine) and geico (theirs), both had the same definition of salvage -> damage exceeding 75% of the current vehicle value. and since they are the ones cutting the check, i'm going with their definition.
i see your point with the insurance company not wanting to insure a "new to you" modified truck with extensive frame work, because that's their rights. but that's only on a future purchase vehicle. as for taking an already insured, clean-titled truck and modding it the way you want, i don't think they can stop you (might be something in the fine print somewhere?).
but the kicker happens when you go to re-sell the truck and when no insurance company will take it, the number of potential buyers goes down, which ultimately translates into less market value.
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04 Red Brawn CC 4x4, OR + BT
Mods:
Banks, AEM Brute Force, Icon (rear)
Modified CB with Firestik mount
Rocky Mounts bike-utility rack mod
exactly my point. When the new insurance co. finds out the frame had been worked on they wont be too happy. Nor would the new owner when they find out too.
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2006 4X4 LE OR CST 7" Lift, RadFlo 2.5 coilovers, PRG Uppers, RadFlo 2.0 rears, Deaver 2.5 mini pack, 3" custom block, PRG traction bars, K&N Intake, 2* advance, Custom Supertrapp exhaust, XE mirror covers and door handles, 17X8 AR Mojave Teflon's, 35/12.50R17 Toyo Mud Terrains, Bushwacker fender flares, Custom one off front tube bumper.
i agree, it's really up to each insurance company person to figure out on their own if this new vehicle you are showing them is worthy of being insured. but as long as damage from an accident was repaired to OEM spec's, then they really don't have too much else to say than 'oh well, should be ok'.
now if you come in to the insurance company to show them some new truck that you want them to insure and it's laying frame with a C-notch in the rear, i think they are a lot less likely to agree to that. maybe some limited insurance contract. point is when it comes to altering your vehicle in such a drastic way, be ready to keep it for life or lose money when you go to resell. plus, when showing a vehicle to your insurance company, make it look stock else be ready for a bunch of crap.
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04 Red Brawn CC 4x4, OR + BT
Mods:
Banks, AEM Brute Force, Icon (rear)
Modified CB with Firestik mount
Rocky Mounts bike-utility rack mod
If you didn't cause the accident then you ARE entitled to diminished value. Call an attorney, why should you accept a loss?
Clint
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2008 Frontier LE Crew Cab 4X4 Long Bed w/Tow in Radiant Silver
2007 Pathfinder SE 4X4 in Desert Stone
2005 Titan LE 4X4 Crew Cab ***SOLD***
You have two choices in life:
You can stay single and be miserable,
or get married and wish you were dead.
I think your assessment of the frame damage is skewed. From the original post, and from the minimal damage, I think what they are talking about being bent is the frame where the bumper support attaches to. Probably just barely pushed it in and just needs bent out a little to be able to attach a new bumper support brace. No big deal at all as it won't effect anything structural. I HIGHLY doubt that a small accident with such minimal damage actually tweaked the frame in any real structural way, if it did maybe I need to buy a different truck. If the frame was bent between where the wheels attach I would raise a stink, but not for this. The quick way to tell is to throw a tape on it and check for yourself by measuring from an outside point on the lower a arm back to an easily referenced point on the frame and check it against the other side. Personally, I think your estimates tell the tale as well........if the frame was bent between the wheels and needed removed and straightened the estimate would be much higher.
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"The tree of Liberty must be refreshed from time to time, with the blood of Patriots and Tyrants." Thomas Jefferson
No insurance company is going to total out a brand new truck with such minimal damage, even if they have to replace the whole frame, it will be cheaper then a new truck. Somebody at CT had their whole frame replaced after it was reended.
my 06 ridgline had $21000 worth of damage to it and they still wouldnt total it. I was t-boned at 50 mph. I had to threaten the dealership with a law suit for not fixxing it properly and charging the insurance company for work they didnt do. Thats how I ended up with my Titan
I stopped checking this thread for new responses after the initial consensus seemed to be established.
Thanks to everyone for their shared insights and different perspectives.
For what it's worth, the shop that finally did the work was one of allstate's PRD's in Kent, WA, called "South Seattle Collision Center". The scope of the work was basically cosmetic repair/replacement, but they screwed up the job and overbilled for work that was evidently/apparently not done.
The truck was in South Seattle's shop for four weeks. SO, FYI, for anyone who may be considering going with these guys, a strong(!) word of warning.
Apart from the cosmetic replacements (front fender, new headlight, new bumper, all botched), the frame pull seems to have been a success.
I've moved back to Arizona since then, and a new auto-body tech at a different (unaffiliated) shop checked it with a tram/measure and said the frame is within factory spec.
The truck handles and drives with no discernable differentness in terms of feel or behavior.
Anyway, thanks again to everyone who responded!!!!!!
Good to hear you eventually came out of this with a good truck!
I would advise anyone with damage to their truck to have it taken to the nearest Nissan dealer that does collision work (and has been certified by Nissan). NEVER have them take your truck to the shops affiliated with the insurance company, no matter what they tell you about 'lifetime warranty on repairs' and similar BS.
By taking it to a Nissan shop not affiliated with the insurance co. you make sure that the repair is approved by Nissan, and that you have someone on your side (the dealer's shop) to stand up to the insurance adjusters.
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Red Alert 2006 Titan Crew Cab LE 4x2 Big Tow
The consensus appears to be that I am basically stuck with a new Truck with a bent (collision) and then essentially re-bent (pulled) frame. Apparently, there is some kind of limited recourse available through small-claims court in the state I live in, provided I can argue the case effectively that the fair-market value of the truck--for resale or trade-in purposes--has been effectively diminished. Which, of course, it has.
So I dunno. Bum deal.
Go to collsionclaims.com they can help you to find out what the dimished value of your truck will be. then you can go to the small claims court with documents that will prove your claim. the initial work is free. but if you want the documents for court it will cost (mine was $350.00) you what ever their current rate is. thanks
Good to hear you eventually came out of this with a good truck!
I would advise anyone with damage to their truck to have it taken to the nearest Nissan dealer that does collision work (and has been certified by Nissan). NEVER have them take your truck to the shops affiliated with the insurance company, no matter what they tell you about 'lifetime warranty on repairs' and similar BS.
By taking it to a Nissan shop not affiliated with the insurance co. you make sure that the repair is approved by Nissan, and that you have someone on your side (the dealer's shop) to stand up to the insurance adjusters.
I agree totally with this, and support the advise... I had numerous damages (prior vehicles) that resulted in mostly body work (luckily) and it just so happened that one of the shops listed on my Ins. Co. list of authorized repair shops was also the primary shop used by my stealership for their own repairs. When I asked the owner if his work would still be warranted by the dealer, he told me that he get's his parts (OEM or matching) through the dealer so all was good. Most insurance companies will have a list of affiliated shops, as do the dealerships, compare the two and pick a shop that does business with both.
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Radiant Silver '06 Titan SE CC 4X4 w/BT&OR w/ ATS Fender Flares
PC 6" lift w/ PRG A arms & traction bars, SAW's front/rear combo & Deaver pack
34" Nitto Terra Grappler's on 17" Helo Maxx 6's
Volant CAI, PowerAid TBS, Flowmaster 40
DECEPTICON center grill, SS Hood Deflector & Chrome Truck Nutz
With the mileage you have. I have 1 suggestion (lawyer). It has been my experience that without one you will not get what you need. Even the best hardaXX just doesn't have the leverage without one. Thats why they make the big bucks.The other insurance will settle quick because $400 an hour if they lose adds up faster than the repair. Thats a new truck and carmax would buy it below wholesale because there will be visible evidence of repair. Why should the loss be yours? It's a game and that's how it is best played.
Go to collsionclaims.com they can help you to find out what the dimished value of your truck will be. then you can go to the small claims court with documents that will prove your claim. the initial work is free. but if you want the documents for court it will cost (mine was $350.00) you what ever their current rate is. thanks
john
This is the method suggestd to be the lawyer I did get, and rather quickly once I found what dealing with Farmer's was going to be like. I spent about a week trying to get somewhere with Farmer's on my own before I just said "screw this, you can talk to a lawyer" and so far I haven't been unhappy about the result(s) I''ve seen with the lawyer's help vs. without it.
The only thing is, most lawyers are only going to be interested in the personal injury side of it. Apparently there isn't enough of an $$ incentive for the majority of lawyers in these kinds of low-damage accident claims to make the property-damage aspect worth their while.
Anyway, my lawyer said to have the truck's post-repair condition checked out and by a company that does this (collisionclaims.com, for instance) and then, with the new assessment of the truck's adjstd value post-collision, go to small claims court. I just haven't had the time to think about this.
Apart from the $350 up front to shell out for the documentation/analysis. I've never even been to small claims court. I haven't settled with Farmer's yet for the personal injury side of it, so the claim is not yet closed. The lawyer is wrapping that up right now.
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