I have been thinking of taking up a project to try and solve the fragile front diff housing problem we seem to be plagued with.
Seeing as how Nissan does not want to acknowledge the issue, I am thinking of taking a standard, off the shelf Dana 44 housing, cutting and shortening it and making up some kind of bracketry that will allow it to bolt up. As for the axles, I have not really looked too deep into it, but I'm sure an end cap/plate can be machined and welded on the end of the axle tubes to allow the factory axles and CV's to be re-used.
This would have to be a bolt in swap for me to do it. I really don't want to start hacking and slashing my way through the factory front end. It really shouldn't be all that hard. I just need some resources. I discussed this a little bit with Greg, and we figure it IS possible. But he has so much on his plate right now as it is. I don't think he has time for another project.
So, what do you guys think? Would it be worth it?
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2006 4X4 LE OR CST 7" Lift, RadFlo 2.5 coilovers, PRG Uppers, RadFlo 2.0 rears, Deaver 2.5 mini pack, 3" custom block, PRG traction bars, K&N Intake, 2* advance, Custom Supertrapp exhaust, XE mirror covers and door handles, 17X8 AR Mojave Teflon's, 35/12.50R17 Toyo Mud Terrains, Bushwacker fender flares, Custom one off front tube bumper.
I would be all for this. So yeah I am definitely interested.
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Black de-badged 2006 Nissan Titan CC LE 4WD. Mag-Hytec diff cover, TrueTrac, T-Rex Billet Vertical Grille and Bumper Insert, Sway-a-way coilovers, Total Chaos control arms, Donahoe Racing rear shocks
Soon as I get mine replaced I'll have an old one to play with. I was thinking more along the lines of improving the current diff but whatever. I'm in Huntington Beach.
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I've got feeler gauge fingers, torque wrench wrists, and a timing light eyeball!
05 SE KK 4x4
offroad, big tow, buckets, util.
$$$ stereo
Pro Comp 6", Dre's/Bilsteins, PRG Traction Bars
315/70 17 BFG AT KO on 17x9 AR Chambers
I have also been thinking about a solution to the problem. But I don't know that it has been proven that the housing is the weak link. So swapping the case sounds like a lot of work, that may not solve the problem. My thought was to replace both axles with custom Dana 60s. But that's a LOT more work and money. Both mods are more time and money than I am willing to invest.
I have also been thinking about a solution to the problem. But I don't know that it has been proven that the housing is the weak link. So swapping the case sounds like a lot of work, that may not solve the problem. My thought was to replace both axles with custom Dana 60s. But that's a LOT more work and money. Both mods are more time and money than I am willing to invest.
From what I have seen, a lot of people are breaking their cases. Being cast aluminum and all, I really don't see how it could be all that strong.
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2006 4X4 LE OR CST 7" Lift, RadFlo 2.5 coilovers, PRG Uppers, RadFlo 2.0 rears, Deaver 2.5 mini pack, 3" custom block, PRG traction bars, K&N Intake, 2* advance, Custom Supertrapp exhaust, XE mirror covers and door handles, 17X8 AR Mojave Teflon's, 35/12.50R17 Toyo Mud Terrains, Bushwacker fender flares, Custom one off front tube bumper.
Another front diff question: How many splines does the Titan's front diff have? I know the back end is 32, much like the updated D44 found in the new Jeep Wranglers, however the previous (standard) D44 was 30 splines.
Exactly. The cases just aren't falling apart, something inside broke apart and broke it open - no?
After looking at some cases while doing lifts. The castings look like they have fine hair line cracks or scaling on the outside. I have to say the castings are not of the best quality. While using 4 wheel drive and applying force to the wheels would cause the case to be stressed and break. Not the parts inside breaking first and then going through the case. If the case get week in structural points then what would hold the force of rotation? Hmmm.. broken case. Replacing with a modified dana would be a good idea. To bad Im a 2wd....
Awhile back someone here or at the other forum posted that the diffs on the new Jeep were the same as ours. They stated this with some authority and if memory serves even referenced an industry rep as their source of data.
Does anyone know if this is in fact true? If so, is it the rear, front, or both? If it's true, we're about to have a whole new world of aftermarket goodies open up to us.
If it's not true, or is only true of the rear, Yellomantis' idea of a front end swap should be explored further.
Regards,
John
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05 LE CC 4X4 - Red Alert w/every factory option
American Racing Chrome Chambers 17X9 Rims
Offroad/Big Tow
Damello Offroad Custom Rock Sliders
Retrax rolling bed cover
Bed Extender
Rancho 4" lift w/ PRG Traction Bars
Fox Coilovers & Total Chaos Upper A Arms & Deaver Leaf Spring Upgrade Pack
1", Billet block in rear w/Bilstiens
Defender Roof Rack w/6 offroad lights
Mile Marker Winch mount brush guard with Warn 9500 Ti winch
Bushwacker fender flares (black)
Another front diff question: How many splines does the Titan's front diff have? I know the back end is 32, much like the updated D44 found in the new Jeep Wranglers, however the previous (standard) D44 was 30 splines.
Hmmmm, I wonder if I could just get a rear end from a wrecked Titan and use it for the project... Maybe one of the "failed" units that are being replaced... Just the housing, not the internals.
Greg was actually suggesting using a Dana 60. If I go that route, I might as well do a full conversion front and rear with ford 9"ers. That way, if I want to do a gear swap, it would be as easy as swapping pumpkins...
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2006 4X4 LE OR CST 7" Lift, RadFlo 2.5 coilovers, PRG Uppers, RadFlo 2.0 rears, Deaver 2.5 mini pack, 3" custom block, PRG traction bars, K&N Intake, 2* advance, Custom Supertrapp exhaust, XE mirror covers and door handles, 17X8 AR Mojave Teflon's, 35/12.50R17 Toyo Mud Terrains, Bushwacker fender flares, Custom one off front tube bumper.
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