My 04' has 107k on it and the belt is starting to squeal on start up.
Can anybody offer some insite on changing the serpentine belt?
I've drawn a diagram showing how the belt runs around the pulleys, just looking for some tips or tricks to help it go smooth. I figure I need to remove the fan shroud and the intake but am lost from there.
any help would be appreciated.
Jason
You have to take the air filter box and tube off to get access to the belt tensioner. Might as well get a CAI while your at the parts store. HeHe
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O6 4X2 Granite SE CC, Big Tow & SE Popular Pkg, Nissan bed extender and bug deflector, Tekonsha Prodigy, Sylvania Silverstars, Zoomers Canon Exhaust Tip, Armada front spoiler, Parrot CK3100 Bluetooth, NCD 2.5" leveling kit, Go Rhino Dominator II nerf bars, AEM Brute Force, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Bully Dog.
to remove the old one, i usually just cut them. Like helomech said, you should just be able to feed the new one around the fan, do that first, may be a tight arse but you should be able to do it. Then just follow the diagram posted under the hood and in the manual for the remainder. The slack adjuster, i forget how it is designed, but usually you just have to put a wrench on it to slacken it.
Thanks alot guys I got er' done!
didnt remove anything, its a tight fit but it can be done. You need an extra hand tho to help hold the belt at times and the tensioner.
I already have a K&N 77 series intake thats been on for 3 years with no sensor problems, fyi.
Also the air filter box is on the opposite side of the truck as the tensioner.
Now you're experienced enough to do the short belt mod for the track!
I need to put it on still, but I bought a Goodyear Gatorback belt for 45 bucks, thinking it has to be better than the 12 dollar OEM Belt. Something too good to be true about a 12 dollar OEM Serpentine belt....
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Majestic Blue 2006 XE CC 2WD Big Tow
AEM BruteForce CAI; PowerAid TBS; MagnaFlow 3" x 24" Muffler; UpRev 93 Tuned; Detroit TrueTrac
Stillen Front and Rear AntiSway Bars, Diff. Cover, Front Rotors & Pads
PRG 2-1/2" and 1" MiniLift, Street Traction Bars
DYNO: 308 RWHP & 380 RWTQ
~CRANK: 360 HP & 450 TQ
At 107K, have you had any problems with your truck, besides the brake judder?
not really, the diff cover started leaking early on but had it replaced with the slotted 05' cover, squeaky leaf springs ( i think due to adding the 1" block)
The transmission slipped one evening after a long and slow tow of a trailer, so I had the 90k service performed. Nissan flushed the tranny and did all the other over paid for crap. Whats funny is the manuel suggests that the belt be replaced at the 90k mark but the stealersip did not include that in their service?!
Overall I think Nissan built a really good reliable truck as they always do. I've owned 4 nissan trucks and they have all been trouble free. I'm sure there are a few lemons out there but in reality I believe the majority of those with issues are the ones that are abusing there truck as if they are invinsible.
Regular maintnance and common sense will keep your Titan running strong for a long time, I'm predicting 250k at least for my 04'.... we'll see?
I held the flashlight for the tech that changed my belt under warranty, and he didn't have to remove anything to do it. He used a long breaker bar with a socket to release the tensioner and just pulled the old belt off. Same method putting the new one on, and it took maybe 10 minutes.
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05 KC SE 4x2 FFV, smoke, no big tow. Mods: Bully Dog Power Pup, JBA catback, S&B GEN 3 CAI, Hellwig HD traction springs, Nasta nerf bars, Kenwood KSC-SW1 powered sub, Grilleguy lower bumper insert, Autoenginuity/enhanced Nissan software. Latest 1/4 mile time of 14.660@93.14 MPH running BD reg 87 tune +2 timing and DA@1830' in FST. JBA catback soundclip, just some revs: http://www.vimeo.com/634077
I held the flashlight for the tech that changed my belt under warranty, and he didn't have to remove anything to do it. He used a long breaker bar with a socket to release the tensioner and just pulled the old belt off. Same method putting the new one on. It took maybe 10 minutes.
It's pretty easy to do. I used a 3/8" breaker bar (IIRC) and that's about it. I took nothing off the truck, nor used anything other than the tensioner to do it.
I took mine off to put on a short belt when i was at the race track.
The trick is, putting the breaker bar in the right spot, so that you can have room to slide the belt over the last pulley.
Like sudden urge said, there's a tensioner there, then route the new in the same path.
I actually drew a picture on a piece of paper so that I could remember how to get it back on.
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SOLD**2004 SE CC Radiant Silver 4X4 w/ Pop. Pkg and DVD
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Just changed mine, its real simple but not much room to work.
I used a socket wrench with a cheater handle for leverage.
As you loosen the tension you will notice that two holes on the tensioner start to move in line with each other. I cranked on it until they lined up and inserted a 5mm Allen into the hole, this will lock the tensioner into the released postion allowing you to focus on removing the old belt and installing the new. Once the new belt is in position just apply pressure to remove the Allen and release the tensioner.
Just changed mine, its real simple but not much room to work.
I used a socket wrench with a cheater handle for leverage.
As you loosen the tension you will notice that two holes on the tensioner start to move in line with each other. I cranked on it until they lined up and inserted a 5mm Allen into the hole, this will lock the tensioner into the released postion allowing you to focus on removing the old belt and installing the new. Once the new belt is in position just apply pressure to remove the Allen and release the tensioner.
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