I have about 25k on my front diff with amsoil sever gear, currently waiting on my backordered shipment.
I have about 25k on the Transfer case with mobile one.
I say about because I don't remember the exact mileage since someone stole my service manual (I htink they though it was CD case) which is where I keep track of my maintanence. Thinking to go ahead and change the transfer case today.
However should I chane my rear diff? It only has 12k on it. The diff was replaced so I'm thinking to change it due to break in? Or should I just wait a while longer to do the front and back.
Also last time I change dit I filled it until it overflowed then put in the screw, while later I had axle seal leaks. Is this the proper way to fill the rear diff? I'm also not going to be uner warranty much longer 52k on the truck, so the next diff failure / axle seal leak might well come out of my pocket.
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PRG Upper Arms and SAWs DR rears 4" lift, Dunder Grill, Extensive Stereo System, HID Club, AEM, Stillen Exhaust, Wet Okoles. Some Titan Pictures (Work in Progress)
I changed the transfer case oil, however I wasn't sure how much to put into it. Last time it looks like I put in about 2.35 quarts, I read someplace that It should be 2.25 quarts. So this time I only put in 2 quarts and about 10oz, or a little over 2.25 quarts. I think last time I filled it until it ran out the plug, I did not do that this time.
Can someone please verify I did this correctly the amount of fluid is not listed in the manual
Oh yea as far as the fluid it was no where near as dark as te first time I changed it, and very little material on the drain plug as well. I dunno what the factory was using but when I changed the first time it was black as night. Although the fluid was dark, this time I could still tell it was Synthetic mobile 1 ATF. The first time I changed it early it was so bad I decided I owuld never go the full 30k, but after looking at this this last time around I think I will do the 30k intervals in the future with mobile 1.
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PRG Upper Arms and SAWs DR rears 4" lift, Dunder Grill, Extensive Stereo System, HID Club, AEM, Stillen Exhaust, Wet Okoles. Some Titan Pictures (Work in Progress)
i just fill mine until it overflows and then stops. kinda the same thing as filling it up to the fill hole. i also change it when its warm, if it is cold more would fit inside, probably.
i just fill mine until it overflows and then stops. kinda the same thing as filling it up to the fill hole. i also change it when its warm, if it is cold more would fit inside, probably.
I filled it while it was cold I forgot your supposed to warm it up first. However the fluid going in would be the same temp anyways. Should I go back under and fill it up unil it comes out or is a little over 2.25 quarts good to go? I think some actualy started to drip out as I stopped, but I still think I could possibly put a little more into it (but have to remove skid etc get out pumps and oil pan etc...2 quarts 10 oz should be close enough no?
Also I reused the washers again :P But no leaks. I don't see what the big deal is with re-using these washers, they are not like the engine oil crush washers. I have re-used washers like these on my ATV for over 10 years and never had a leak.
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PRG Upper Arms and SAWs DR rears 4" lift, Dunder Grill, Extensive Stereo System, HID Club, AEM, Stillen Exhaust, Wet Okoles. Some Titan Pictures (Work in Progress)
you should be good, if your really worried you could just open the fill plug when its warm to let any fluid out, but i wouldn't bother.
yeah my dealer said they didn't have the t-case washers, and i reused mine no probs. they didn't have a code for them, meaning they have never stocked them, i asked "well what does the service dept. do when they change t-case fluid?" they are reusing all they take apart.
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