Has anyone attempted to install a Truetrac in their Titan themselves? If so - what did it involve? My dealership said they do no differential work other than changing out a factory unit when needed. Any tips, or possibly a step by step the Mods can make into a sticky thread?
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Mods - DR's, Billstiens, K&N Stage II FPK, Banks Catback with Zoomers tip, BFG 285 65 18 Tires
Well, you basicly check your backlash, remove the old carrier, remove the ring gear off of it and install the ring gear to your new TruTrac. You re-install the complete carrier assembly (with new carrier bearings) and set the backlash back to the same as before, double check the wear pattern...
If you don't understand any of the above, find a shop in your area that does diff work...
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Titan KC SE 2wd StreetFighter...
PRG Performance Kit w/SAW's
including rear SAW 2.25" Piggys
Nitto Terra Gobblers on Pro Comp 1028 Wana-be Bead lock wheels
Born 9/2004
Well, you basicly check your backlash, remove the old carrier, remove the ring gear off of it and install the ring gear to your new TruTrac. You re-install the complete carrier assembly (with new carrier bearings) and set the backlash back to the same as before, double check the wear pattern...
If you don't understand any of the above, find a shop in your area that does diff work...
OK - so I check my backlash with a feeler gauge - probably a good idea to use Prussian Blue to check the tooth contact pattern before and after to get a visual. Where can I get shims - does anyone have a dealer part number for a shim pack assortment for this rear? Pictures and notes probably would help if I get interupted part way thru the project. I saw in other threads that the trutrack can be ordered with new carrier bearings - are they pressed on in the Nissan modified Dana 44 - or are they slip fit? Do any of the venders that sell the trutrack offer it with carrier bearings installed if they are pressed? Also - is it advisable to change the axle seals if they are not presently leaking - just for insurance - or with 24,900 miles should I leave them alone? Thanks for the details - I think I will be taking this on soon.
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Mods - DR's, Billstiens, K&N Stage II FPK, Banks Catback with Zoomers tip, BFG 285 65 18 Tires
Align it? Unless your talking about the bearing tension and/or backlash setting there will be no need for a thrust angle alignment.
You also have to have axle pullers and pull both axle shafts out about a foot. And pray you don't damage the seal or it will leak after you put it all back together.
But since you ask the question on how to do it....I wouldn't do it. There should be a rear end or performance shop in your area some place.
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2006 SE Crew Cab, Big Tow, Traction Package, SE Popular Package...mods....yup...and they seem to work well together! UpRev Osiris now installed!
RT .079
60' 1.848
1/8 8.792
MPH 77.458
1/4 13.896
MPH 95.996
Horsepower Sells Cars, Torque Wins Races!
OK - so I check my backlash with a feeler gage - probably a good idea to use Prussian Blue to check the tooth contact pattern before and after to get a visual. Where can I get shims - does anyone have a dealer part number for a shim pack assortment for this rear? Pictures and notes probably would help if I get interupted part way thru the project. I saw in other threads that the trutrack can be ordered with new carrier bearings - are they pressed on in the Nissan modified Dana 44 - or are they slip fit? Do any of the venders that sell the trutrack offer it with carrier bearings installed if they are pressed? Also - is it advisable to change the axle seals if they are not presently leaking - just for insurance - or with 24,900 miles should I leave them alone? Thanks for the details - I think I will be taking this on soon.
Don't use a feeler gage, (I don't see how you would...) you use a dial indicator.
The new bearings are pressed onto the TruTrac, the new races just go over the bearings...No shims, the side to side adjustment is by threaded collars. Bearing preload is important, I've done all mine by feel - no problems yet
The axle seals/bearings are a crap shoot, some here have r&r'ed them no issues, and others have had them leak...
Your choice...
GM has a real nice pattern liquid/spread that's works so good you get spoiled using it...as I have. Sometimes white grease will give a good pattern impression also
I use to do all the Ford 9" rear ends for a race team, although other styles achieve the correct preload/backlash/pattern differently, the end result is the same...
I have no idea what needs to be aligned?....
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Titan KC SE 2wd StreetFighter...
PRG Performance Kit w/SAW's
including rear SAW 2.25" Piggys
Nitto Terra Gobblers on Pro Comp 1028 Wana-be Bead lock wheels
Born 9/2004
I wondered about this as well. I have not replaced the rear end in my Titan but I have replaced a few rear ends in Jeeps before. I never had to do any alignment after replacing a rear end.
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O6 4X2 Granite SE CC, Big Tow & SE Popular Pkg, Nissan bed extender and bug deflector, Tekonsha Prodigy, Sylvania Silverstars, Zoomers Canon Exhaust Tip, Armada front spoiler, Parrot CK3100 Bluetooth, NCD 2.5" leveling kit, Go Rhino Dominator II nerf bars, AEM Brute Force, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Bully Dog.
I've done rears on 40k# tractor trailers.... I'd only suggest tackling something like this if you've done it before or have good wrench skills. There is a lot that can go wrong and you don't want to grenade your brand new truetrac... I'm not discouraging you, just a heads up..
I'd attempt this myself but only after reading the instructions and making sure I have all the right tools and equipment.
The new bearings are pressed onto the TruTrac, the new races just go over the bearings...No shims, the side to side adjustment is by threaded collars. Bearing preload is important, I've done all mine by feel I have no idea what needs to be aligned?....
I live in the Caribbean and there are very few so called competent mechanics. I had the most reliable one install my TruTrac however when I asked him if he set the backlash I got that vacant look. I know it is not right as I ocassionally get a loud clunk when engaging gears, most notably reverse when on an incline. After questioning him he conceded that he did not set this as he did not know how assuming it was all preset inside the sealed trutrac unit. Can anyone send me a picture of the threaded collars and their location in the axle so as I can show this half a..se "mechanic" what he needs to adjust, or even seeing it is installed maybe I could do this and know at least it is done. in advance. I have not used the truck much since the install and I really don't want to mess up the rear hence my decision to go trutrac but it will very soon have to be my DD.
I live in the Caribbean and there are very few so called competent mechanics. I had the most reliable one install my TruTrac however when I asked him if he set the backlash I got that vacant look. I know it is not right as I ocassionally get a loud clunk when engaging gears, most notably reverse when on an incline. After questioning him he conceded that he did not set this as he did not know how assuming it was all preset inside the sealed trutrac unit. Can anyone send me a picture of the threaded collars and their location in the axle so as I can show this half a..se "mechanic" what he needs to adjust, or even seeing it is installed maybe I could do this and know at least it is done. in advance. I have not used the truck much since the install and I really don't want to mess up the rear hence my decision to go trutrac but it will very soon have to be my DD.
Uh...Man you've got problems...
By using the ring gear over, the pinion depth should stay the same, so side to side adjustment is what's required to get the correct gear wear patten...If this is all beyond the mechanic, it's going to be tough to "school him"....
The closest your going to get to educating him is to find a website that shows and narrates all this...Good luck!
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Titan KC SE 2wd StreetFighter...
PRG Performance Kit w/SAW's
including rear SAW 2.25" Piggys
Nitto Terra Gobblers on Pro Comp 1028 Wana-be Bead lock wheels
Born 9/2004
The best install includes replacing axle bearings & seals and installing new carrier bearings. You will need a press for the axle bearings and carrier bearings. You will need a long handled special tool to reach through the axle tube to adjust the carrier bearings to set the correct backlash, in addition to a dial indicator & gear marking compound. Unless you have all that stuff already, it will cost about as much to buy the tools as to hire somebody who knows what they are doing handle the install.
Truetrac is an aftermarket part and is not covered by the OEM warranty. Some dealers will not do that type of work. Some will. Others farm it out to a transmission - rear axle type of shop and then mark up the cost of the work to you.
You will need a long handled special tool to reach through the axle tube to adjust the carrier bearings to set the correct backlash marking
You should be able to access the side bearing threaded adjuster from the rear diff opening...
But yeah all the stuff you said!!
Bottom line, if you have to ask that many questions then you need to find the right "guy"...
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Titan KC SE 2wd StreetFighter...
PRG Performance Kit w/SAW's
including rear SAW 2.25" Piggys
Nitto Terra Gobblers on Pro Comp 1028 Wana-be Bead lock wheels
Born 9/2004
I remember Austin's write up...he strikes me as an above average diy home mechanic... and he looked for an experienced (with rear end work) mechanic to do this.
I figure if he didn't wanna mess with it himself, about 99.99% of people won't want to try it at home.
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2005 CC 4x4 SE
AKA
TreeHuggingHippieWhore™
All Time Favorite TitanTalk Quote (in response to what type of Gasoline is best):
I personally prefer whatever's cheap. I'd club baby seals to death and squeeze oil from their limp little bodies if I could save a buck - Mr B
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