I don't know when the transmission fluid has been changed, so I'm thinking that if the fluid looks pretty clean then I'll leave it in, but if it looks dirty then I'll change the fluid and the filter. So far NO issues with the transmission shifting or slipping. Am I thinking correctly?
I've read that the transmission filter is a mesh screen, so is it worth replacing or should I just try to change the transmission fluid? I was thinking of going with the Amsoil ATF.
ALSO, I am thinking of going to synthetic motor oil and wondered: if I used the Amsoil synthetic Absolute Efficiency filter (amsoil.com/storefront/eao.aspx), but still changed the oil every 7,500 miles if I could not change the filter because the filter is recommended for 25,000 miles (just change the oil). I've never not changed the filter when I changed the oil, so thought I'd get recommendations based on experience with the Amsoil filters.
the rule is that if the fluid is dirty or burnt smelling, not to change it due to the fact that when the fluid gets burnt or real dirty, it becomes gummy and when you change it, the new fluid is too slick and the trans has gummy deposits on the metal surfaces that somehow like the old fluid. if the fluid is not burnt smelling then it's ok to change it. numerous people i know and have been told horror stories of changing burnt smelling trans fluid and then trans slips almost instantlly.
Thanks, I'll check for the condition of the fluid before I start changing it.
I've read that the transmission filter is a mesh screen, so is it worth replacing or should I just try to change the transmission fluid? I was thinking of going with the Amsoil ATF.
ALSO, I am thinking of going to synthetic motor oil and wondered: if I used the Amsoil synthetic Absolute Efficiency filter (amsoil.com/storefront/eao.aspx), but still changed the oil every 7,500 miles if I could not change the filter because the filter is recommended for 25,000 miles (just change the oil). I've never not changed the filter when I changed the oil, so thought I'd get recommendations based on experience with the Amsoil filters.
i would definatlly change the filter if your gonna change fluid. for one, a clogged filter is prob one of the main causes of trans failure. and just to see how much sludge and metal shavings are in pan. if alot of sludge or alot of metal shavings, be prepared for a rebuild.
ALSO, I am thinking of going to synthetic motor oil and wondered: if I used the Amsoil synthetic Absolute Efficiency filter (amsoil.com/storefront/eao.aspx), but still changed the oil every 7,500 miles if I could not change the filter because the filter is recommended for 25,000 miles (just change the oil). I've never not changed the filter when I changed the oil, so thought I'd get recommendations based on experience with the Amsoil filters.Thanks!
I run AMSoil EA filter and engine oil. I change both once a year at the same time. I don't put enough miles on my Titan to reach the mileage limit of the oil or the filter.
The way I figure, if you're changing the oil you might as well change the filter.
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«Granite '07 LE Crew Cab, 4x4, Big Tow, Off-Road, Side Curtain Airbags, Sunroof»
«ClearBra, Leer 100XQ, MM SI9500 Winch, 18" Magnaflow, Berk b-pipes, Volant PowerCore, AMSoil bumper to bumper, Uprev tuned»
«SAW Coilovers and rear shocks, PRG upper control arms and shackles, Hellwig rear sway bar»
Jim
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«Granite '07 LE Crew Cab, 4x4, Big Tow, Off-Road, Side Curtain Airbags, Sunroof»
«ClearBra, Leer 100XQ, MM SI9500 Winch, 18" Magnaflow, Berk b-pipes, Volant PowerCore, AMSoil bumper to bumper, Uprev tuned»
«SAW Coilovers and rear shocks, PRG upper control arms and shackles, Hellwig rear sway bar»
Jim
hm, is it easy to access the screen? I'd like to check mine
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05 xe 4x4
Go: aFe stg2, TBS, TB coolant bypass, flowmaster Y pipe w/borla pro XS muffler, BD PP, DT LT headers
Ext: 2.5" leveling kit, Fabtech add-a-leaf, PRG UCAs, SAW Piggybacks in rear 3" body lift, 33x15.5 Swamper TSL/Sx on 16.5x14" Weld mountain crushers polished, ventshades, 5% tint all around, n-fab steps, PRG traction bars
Int: wet okole seat covers front and back, custom 7" screen cut into last fold down pocket of over head console. active 3 way front stage 8" Peerless SLS woofers in doors, 4" xtant XSC/morel mids at a-pillars in glass pods (gloss black painted) and (Blau VC100 rainbow cal25 based) tweets run off an audio art 260.6xe, preamped via arc audio eq
substage always chaging, sundown NSv1, 2.6 cubes @ 38hz single 6" psp port, 1ohm on a single saz-2000d, hoping to change the box to something a little larger and maybe do a kerf port with about 45in^2
Go: aFe stg2, TBS, TB coolant bypass, flowmaster Y pipe w/borla pro XS muffler, BD PP, DT LT headers
Ext: 2.5" leveling kit, Fabtech add-a-leaf, PRG UCAs, SAW Piggybacks in rear 3" body lift, 33x15.5 Swamper TSL/Sx on 16.5x14" Weld mountain crushers polished, ventshades, 5% tint all around, n-fab steps, PRG traction bars
Int: wet okole seat covers front and back, custom 7" screen cut into last fold down pocket of over head console. active 3 way front stage 8" Peerless SLS woofers in doors, 4" xtant XSC/morel mids at a-pillars in glass pods (gloss black painted) and (Blau VC100 rainbow cal25 based) tweets run off an audio art 260.6xe, preamped via arc audio eq
substage always chaging, sundown NSv1, 2.6 cubes @ 38hz single 6" psp port, 1ohm on a single saz-2000d, hoping to change the box to something a little larger and maybe do a kerf port with about 45in^2
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