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2008 SE 2WD:
PRO COMP Kit, PRG UCA, with Radflows 2.5 Externals sitting upfront at 9.5" and rear 3' with MX6 Rear shocks. Nitto Trail Grapplers 35x-12.5-17 Tires. PRO COMP ALLOYS SERIES 6005 rims. Injen CAI,
I looked at the other threads, the guys with the stillen are complaining about a 'blown' tranny.
A vortech is not like a stillen, it builds boost with RPM, and so you may have only 2psi at 2000 rpms but 10psi at 6000 rpms.
That way torque builds linearly with RPM and you don't have a big torque spike at the lower rpms.
You still make the same peak hp figures, but the peak torque stays low and the power buildup is more progressive.
Centrifugal chargers like the vortech, are a great success with large displacement, large torque engines for this exact reason.
Of course at the same boost level the stillen will be faster since it holds for example 8psi from idle to redline (vs a centrifugal that only gives you 8psi near redline) but that is if the stillen can put down it's power (which people imply requires a transmission upgrade).
Autos are not that hard to upgrade either... i think saying 'blown tranny' is not useful, it's more useful to talk about exactly where the point of failure was ... and upgrade that part...
Typical upgrades for an auto tranny are :
1- Oil cooler (keeps the fluid temps down, which keeps the viscosity up which gives better friction at the torque converter and better power delivery).
2- Synthetic oil (will not break down with heat)
3- Upgraded valve body - which gives you higher line pressure which helps hold (rather than slip) under more torque delivery
Anytime you upgrade with severity such as a supercharger or turbo charger you really should consider the extra strain on your other vital parts such as transmission, driveshaft, and rear end..... you would never put a built crate motor on a stock tranny.... you have to consider the extra power and torque... those that "brew" the tranny were obviously not set up correctly.... if you are looking for that expensive of and upgrade, save alittle more on top of that and have your tranny built bullet proof... also check into changing your rear diff to a beefy setup..... keep me updated as to what you do because i will be eventually install the Stillen and other driveline mods.
There are a lot of mistakes made in that thread (read about every other page from start to finish)
I hope you don't get offended... looks like your trucks are built with just enough quality in them to get them on the streets... combine that with dealer techs that don't have the ability to verify the install with a dyno and a/f read out, and combine that with owners running lift kits, and no EGT gauges or trans temp gauges, and combine that with stillen, who like nissan, built the cheapest product they could and pushed it on the market.
Looking at all of that, it'd be fair to say, no matter what you chose to put on the truck, it would probably blow eat itself up eventually since it looks like a cheap truck to start with
(please don't get offended).
However, the safest route you can go is going to be with a centifugal supercharger (vortech or rotrex), stay away from turbos... with an air to air intercooler, with 8 upgraded injectors (no additional injectors or piggy backs), with a matching size upgraded MAF, with the tranny upgrades i mentioned before, with the right gauges to keep tabs on things, and with a dyno tune right after the install to get it where it needs to be.
the smooth boost build of a centrifugal will prevent a torque spike at lower rpms and will reduce load on the tranny... this is usually the smartest way to supercharger a large displacement V8 like an LS1 and that's why truck kits are actually based on centrifugal superchargers.
I guess you live and learn....
A turbo kit is more complex to install and tune ... will give you more potential to blow up your car (disconnect 1 vacuum line and your boost will skyrocket from 6psi to 28psi and kill the motor)... and will give you the same trans problems as the roots style positive displacement blower.
There are a lot of mistakes made in that thread (read about every other page from start to finish)
I hope you don't get offended... looks like your trucks are built with just enough quality in them to get them on the streets... combine that with dealer techs that don't have the ability to verify the install with a dyno and a/f read out, and combine that with owners running lift kits, and no EGT gauges or trans temp gauges, and combine that with stillen, who like nissan, built the cheapest product they could and pushed it on the market.
Looking at all of that, it'd be fair to say, no matter what you chose to put on the truck, it would probably blow eat itself up eventually since it looks like a cheap truck to start with
(please don't get offended).
However, the safest route you can go is going to be with a centifugal supercharger (vortech or rotrex), stay away from turbos... with an air to air intercooler, with 8 upgraded injectors (no additional injectors or piggy backs), with a matching size upgraded MAF, with the tranny upgrades i mentioned before, with the right gauges to keep tabs on things, and with a dyno tune right after the install to get it where it needs to be.
the smooth boost build of a centrifugal will prevent a torque spike at lower rpms and will reduce load on the tranny... this is usually the smartest way to supercharger a large displacement V8 like an LS1 and that's why truck kits are actually based on centrifugal superchargers.
I guess you live and learn....
A turbo kit is more complex to install and tune ... will give you more potential to blow up your car (disconnect 1 vacuum line and your boost will skyrocket from 6psi to 28psi and kill the motor)... and will give you the same trans problems as the roots style positive displacement blower.
Can you give us more evidence on how our trucks are so cheap?
I do agree with you on the Centrifugal set up, but I don't have the cash to put that type of money into my truck at once.
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2006 LE CC 4x4 3.36 Performance: Injen CAI, Custom 3.5" RAM Air Mod, Custom 2.25" MF CATS B-Pipes, 07 Exhaust with MF Swap, Nismo LT Headers, 2007 Intake Manifold, Tuned by DF6_Titan & Me Interior: WeatherTech Floor mats, Kenwood DDX814, 2 12W3v3 JL Subs, Boston Pro 6.5 Comps, Boston Acoustic Rears, RF 1500-BD, PDX 4.100, Scoshe Dash Kit, Monster Cable 200 Series RCA's, Stinger Amp Wiring Kit, QX56 Center Console Lid Exterior: 6000k Fogs, 4300k Lows, Black 1 PC Upper Replacement Billet Grille, Black Headlights, De-chromed, De-Badged, Tinted Tails Suspension: ProComp 6" Lift, MX6 Coilovers, MX6 Rear Shocks, PRG Shackles, 20" American Racing rims, 35" Nitto Mud Grapplers My track vids!
There are a lot of mistakes made in that thread (read about every other page from start to finish)
I hope you don't get offended... looks like your trucks are built with just enough quality in them to get them on the streets... combine that with dealer techs that don't have the ability to verify the install with a dyno and a/f read out, and combine that with owners running lift kits, and no EGT gauges or trans temp gauges, and combine that with stillen, who like nissan, built the cheapest product they could and pushed it on the market.
Looking at all of that, it'd be fair to say, no matter what you chose to put on the truck, it would probably blow eat itself up eventually since it looks like a cheap truck to start with
(please don't get offended).
However, the safest route you can go is going to be with a centifugal supercharger (vortech or rotrex), stay away from turbos... with an air to air intercooler, with 8 upgraded injectors (no additional injectors or piggy backs), with a matching size upgraded MAF, with the tranny upgrades i mentioned before, with the right gauges to keep tabs on things, and with a dyno tune right after the install to get it where it needs to be.
the smooth boost build of a centrifugal will prevent a torque spike at lower rpms and will reduce load on the tranny... this is usually the smartest way to supercharger a large displacement V8 like an LS1 and that's why truck kits are actually based on centrifugal superchargers.
I guess you live and learn....
A turbo kit is more complex to install and tune ... will give you more potential to blow up your car (disconnect 1 vacuum line and your boost will skyrocket from 6psi to 28psi and kill the motor)... and will give you the same trans problems as the roots style positive displacement blower.
You might be right. I dunno if it's all completely from being cheap, I think quite a bit of aluminum and light weight alloys might've been used in our engines and drivetrain to lighten the weight. Like you, I think the Vortech might possibly be the "safest" route right at this moment. However, Relentless RPM is investing a LOT of time into R&D to see how much of a Turbo setup this motor and transmission can handle for long term durability. IMHO, I think it would be worth the wait to see their results before deciding on anything because I'd bet that they manage to find the sweet spot for best performance + good long term reliability.
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