After STARING at the service manual wiring diagram for the fog lamps, I have figured out that since the lights actuate through the BCM and ECU, there is no way to use the factory set up (replacement turn signal stalk, relay, etc.).
Here is what I did...
Keep in mind that I left the original turn signal stalk installed.
I bought factory fog lamps and an aftermarket relay. I fed two wires through the fire wall. One wire I spliced into the parking light wire (on the harness side, no need to remove light, but you do need to remove the grill). This wire is Red w/ blue stripe. The other end of this wire goes to a switch in the truck. The other wire feeds the switch leg of the relay. I ran a fused wire to the battery. I then ran the power wire off of the relay and attatched it to the fog light connector. To do this, remove some of the electrical tape from the wire wrap. Cut the White w/red stripe wire. Attatch the wire from the relay to the wire going to the connector. You can either run a wire from one light to the other (series) or run a wire from each Light leg of the relay to each light.
I am now going to try to get a fog light rocker switch like the one that I had in my '95 Kingcab. It should fit nicely in one of the blank spaces by the pedal controls. It has the fog lamp symbol on it and has an amber led that lights when they are on.
Tech12Volt Enclosure, TechTubes Polished SS Step Rails, OEM Fog Lights, OEM Bug Deflector, ARE LSII Hard Tonneau Cover, Black Stubby Antenna, Volant CAI,
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JDM 6000K HID Lows & Fogs, SilverStar Halogen High-beams, LED Third Brake Light, Red Billet Aluminum Oil Cap, Red Active Tuning Grounding Kit, Body Colored Front Spoiler,
Big Red, many thanks for the clear, concise instructions for wiring the factory fog lites. You are a gentleman and a scholar.
After you find the power switch that works best, please post the brand and model no.
Well guys and gals, I couldn't get the switch that I wanted to put in. I would have had to buy a whole kit, around $240. On another thread, someone mentioned that the Exterra switch would work. Once again, you would have to buy a whole kit.
So I took the rocker switch that came with the wiring kit that I bought from AutoZone and cut it into one of the blanks by the pedal control. (To get the blank out, you have to push it into the dash and wiggle your hand behind there to get it, kind of tight.) Came out good. Below are pictures of what I did. The switch is a lighted switch, so if you want it to light up, you have to ground it. If you don't want it to light up, just leave the ground off, the fog lights will still work. I took the side cover off in the foot well and found a 10mm bolt that I grounded it to. It's the bolt at the bottom of the pic with the single black wire connected to it.
The reason that I bought the wiring kit was that it comes with a fused line that has a connector that connects right to the battery connection, a wire that runs from the relay and splits to go to each fog light (you have to extend these, as they're not long enough), and a ground wire, which just so happens to have a connector that fits perfectly on that 10mm bolt. The kit was about $4.00. I hope this helps some of you.
Pull and wiggle that floor kick panel ... its just held in by the door sill molding at an odd angle.
An easier way of getting that pop-out switch without risking breaking off the tabs that keep it in tight, just take off that bottom plastic trim piece. It's two phillips head screws and a good tug. Takes maybe 30 seconds?
Just to be clear, is this how you wired up the lights with the relay?
That's exactly how I did it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by overdose
one question, how did u remove the plastic on the bottom left on picture #2?
As far as getting the kick panel out, there is a black retainer, about half an inch in diameter, toward the front of the truck up at the top of the panel. With a small flat head screw driver, pry out the center pin, then you can pull the panel outward from that point to pull the panel out. Then pull the panel toward the back of the truck to get it off of the door moulding. The plastic "runner" that runs along the bottom of the door will come out with it.
Any further questions, let me know.
Quote:
Originally Posted by schneid
I saw it awhile back. I think it firs Titans/Armadas too.
That is very similar to the one I was looking for. The one that I had was a little different, but I think this one will work. GREAT CALL!!!
I'm gonna order one right now.
I just ordered the switch. I will let you all know how it fits and will post pics. Total cost was $24 and some change including S/H and sales tax. This link goes to Courtesy Nissan's Xterraparts.com site. They are only about 35 miles from my house, so I should get it pretty quick.
I got my Fog Light switch today. I got it from Jamie at Nissanparts247.com. Part number is 999F1-6E000. Price was $20.45 delivered. This switch is for Nissan trucks and Pathy's after 1994. It took about two months to get it due to being BACKORDERED. I think it was worth the wait though. I now have a factory Fog Light switch. Yeeeeeaaaaaaaaa!! Looks much better than the aftermarket rocker I had.
Damn! That looks awesome! alot better than my radio shack rocker switch. Got them down to $12.50 so I went ahead and ordered. They told me 3 or 4 days though, so I hope that I don't end up waiting so long.
Big Red, can I ask why you used a relay? It seemed un necessary to me with the fused battery lead, I did not installe one and haven't had any problems.
I would have only used a relay if I was going to wire the fogs to turn on with the parking lights or something of that nature.
With a dedicated fused 12V power source and a seperate switch a relay seems unneeded.
Actually, I did wire my fog lights to turn on with the parking lights, using the rocker to turn them off if I don't want them on. Ran trigger wire from front left parking light wire to the relay.
The main reason I used a relay was so that I could have the higher amperage go directly to the fog lights, not through the switch. On a previous vehicle, I wired a fused line from the battery directly to the switch then to the lights. The problem I had was that rocker switches tend to get hot when wired this way, so they eventually fail because the plastic becomes fatigued from the heat. This happened more than once, so I know it wasn't the switch. Once I added a relay, I didn't have the problem again.
I don't want to have to replace a $20 switch due to "overheating" if I can avoid it. I know that the Nissan fogs only draw 75 watts (about 6.25 amps), and the switches are rated at 15 amps, but I have have overheated similar switches with about 9.2 amps (pair of 55 watt fog lights). Why take the chance? Relays are a cost effective (about $4) way to greatly extend the life of the switch. The worst problem I have had with a relay has been the contacts sticking (once in about 5 years of daily use). Took it apart, cleaned the contacts, put back together and it was good as new.
The moral to this story.... Relays save lives...switches that is
I didn't mean to ramble on, I just wanted to give a thorough answer.
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06-26-2004, 11:41 PM
Parking Lights WITH FOG LAMPS!!
In memory of Chris- CaliforniaTitan
2004 Nissan Titan SE Kingcab 
, Clifford Matrix 50.5X Security/ Remote Start
at the service manual wiring diagram for the fog lamps, I have figured out that since the lights actuate through the BCM and ECU, there is no way to use the factory set up (replacement turn signal stalk, relay, etc.).
I would have had to buy a whole kit, around $240. On another thread, someone mentioned that the Exterra switch would work. Once again, you would have to buy a whole kit.
Looks much better than the aftermarket rocker I had.
Linear Mode
