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Old 07-24-2005, 09:31 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grunge311
I have an LE KC and am trying you electric tailgate lock instructions and I cant figure out which wires I need to splice to.

I have the wire running all the way into the door and am looking at the switch plugs (to the window/lock panel) which ones do I need to splice too?

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Don't know if you still need this info or not but I will post for anyone else trying to do this. The wire as stated can be found behind kick panel on passenger side. Violet and Green/Yellow stripe. THIS IS A CC NOT SURE IF IT'S THE SAME ON KC. Tapping into these wire allows for the tailgate to unlock only when passenger door unlock (two push on key FOB).


Also I found it's not nessary to removed the lock mechanism from the tailgate. The black plastic piece (number 1 ) will bend up slightly to slide the neccessary piece (number 2 ) into place. All done without removing anything from the tailgate.

Thank you to "pciley" for great info to get me started. Aboved picture belong to him.
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Last edited by baseballfanz; 07-24-2005 at 09:38 AM.
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Old 07-24-2005, 06:33 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I did this mod today and it worked very well. All the hints from various folks were useful, especially baseballfanz' wiring picture and discussion for the purpl and green/yellow wires on the passenger side. I actually used a slightly different design than that discussed here. There's one on ClubTitan that was a simpler, more elegant, and direct design. It did not require removal of the lock mechanism and only removal of 1 part. Hey, we take the best info we can find and put it all together... and, voila! The trailer plugs were a great idea and the actuator I got from Circuit City already had a few parts in it, like the bracket instead of getting plumber's tape.

Works like a dream!
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Old 07-25-2005, 09:07 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Could I do this on my ARE Z series cap or is better to shell out the $150 for them to do it?
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Old 07-25-2005, 10:31 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mopar
Could I do this on my ARE Z series cap or is better to shell out the $150 for them to do it?
They would probably use the same type of actuator. If you don't feel like doing yourself a stereo shop can probably do it for much less than $150.
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Old 08-10-2005, 10:33 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I did mine and it was not too bad( I was anal and wrapped the wires with electrical tape(mini harness) and then in a split loom routed along with the other wires. I just popped the clip off the lock kidney drilled a hole(actually 2 first one didn't work well) and bent the chrome connector rod throught the hole. The hardest part was the contemplation of how to bend the rod I looked at the club titan post but mine didn't come out like that my guess is everyones is a lttle different.
This should have come from the factory this way!!!!!(You reading this Nissan)

Cost me under $15 gettting the actuator from Parts express. This is a great and fairly simple mod now I need to do this to my ARE cap lock (anyone got pics of how it is done by ARE when you get this option when purchased??)
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Old 08-24-2005, 07:32 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I did the power tailgate lock mod Monday. Thanks for all the tips on Titan Talk, made the job pretty easy. I bought the actuater from Parts Express and had everything else needed at home. Total cost under $10, can't beat that.
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Old 08-30-2005, 09:56 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Again... Anyone local that needs help, I'd be more than happy to lend a hand.
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Old 08-31-2005, 02:18 AM   #38 (permalink)
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man this looks hard, but hey Ill order the pieces today and try it this weekend

hope it works lol
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Old 08-31-2005, 07:21 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Actually it's not much harder than changing the oil.
Here are my two tips:
1) Whatever you use to connect to the lock wires, make sure you have good contact. My scotchlok connectors didn't pierce the sheath on my first attempt.
2) Don't remove the E-Clip from the locking cam because it's freakin' hard to get back on, and if you're like me you'll lose a few clips in the tailgate before getting it back together.
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Old 09-01-2005, 07:06 AM   #40 (permalink)
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When drilling the hole in the lock cam make sure you do it far enough back that the acutuator cn lock and unlock my first hole didn't work and and just drilled a new one no big deal because it was n't to close. See my diagram hope it helps
Attached Thumbnails
tailgate-power-lock-tailgate-lock.jpg  
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05 Galaxy Black SE CC 4x4 w/Big Tow Born on 01/05
Borla Cat Back--------AVS Taillight Blackouts
ARE Z series cap------Wade InChannel Ventvisors
OEM Step Rails PC Black-----Weathertech extreme floor liners
K&N 77series CAI------Tailgate mod
Rubber Bed Mat----Custom Bed rug
PRG 4" Perfomance lift--OR Skidplate PC Black w/holes
KMC Backseats 18x9---Procomp Extreme AT 325 60 18

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Old 09-01-2005, 08:03 AM   #41 (permalink)
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I am wondering how many actuators can be chained before a fuse blows. I have an ARE Z shell w/ electric actuated lock already wired to the rear door unlock wires on the driver's side. Those wires are already at the back of the truck, adjacent the tailgate. Should I tap those wires for the tailgate unlock actuator (which would apparently put three lock actuators on the same circuit) or run new wires to the passenger side?

The increasing information in this thread makes me glad I procrastinated a bit in doing this mod.
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Old 09-01-2005, 08:55 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bestatchess
I am wondering how many actuators can be chained before a fuse blows. I have an ARE Z shell w/ electric actuated lock already wired to the rear door unlock wires on the driver's side. Those wires are already at the back of the truck, adjacent the tailgate. Should I tap those wires for the tailgate unlock actuator (which would apparently put three lock actuators on the same circuit) or run new wires to the passenger side?

The increasing information in this thread makes me glad I procrastinated a bit in doing this mod.
My best guess would be at least 4 or 5 since the CC models have four door locks.
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Old 09-01-2005, 09:12 AM   #43 (permalink)
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I could use some picture of the Z series power actuated lock as I want to do that also and an exposed picture of how it was done would be greatly apreciatedas I could figure it out with the standard actuator I got. I think you could probably do it on the same side I don't think it is a very long (time) or large current draw so it shouldn't be a problem I plan to have mine on the same since I already ran the wires(the toughest part of this mod)and they are there.
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05 Galaxy Black SE CC 4x4 w/Big Tow Born on 01/05
Borla Cat Back--------AVS Taillight Blackouts
ARE Z series cap------Wade InChannel Ventvisors
OEM Step Rails PC Black-----Weathertech extreme floor liners
K&N 77series CAI------Tailgate mod
Rubber Bed Mat----Custom Bed rug
PRG 4" Perfomance lift--OR Skidplate PC Black w/holes
KMC Backseats 18x9---Procomp Extreme AT 325 60 18

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Old 09-01-2005, 10:56 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Here's how I did mine, no need to take out anything from tailgate (no risk of loosing any small parts). There was no need to drilled any hole into lock mechanism.

This is where I mounted the actuator, only it will be mounted underneath.


I use the rod that came with kit and at the end make it to a close loop.


This is how it's mounted under the tailgate, the red circle is the actuator, the blue circle is where the "LOOP" attached to the lock mechanism. This is from driver side looking in.


To attached the loop to lock mechanism, you can lift up plastic tab and slide in the loop (see picture) Number one is the tab, number two is where loop need to be. Notice this picture is outside of tailgate, it's someone elses picture but I wanted a clearer view, all this can be done with this part inside tail gate.


Here's another picture from difference angle. Passenger side looking in.


For wiring just followed this thread.
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Last edited by baseballfanz; 09-01-2005 at 11:02 AM.
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Old 09-01-2005, 12:35 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Would this actuator be OK to use?

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=330-010

Its only $4.
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