Alright, got the actuator installed, but ran out of daylight before I could finish the wiring. I did test it out with the wires running on the outside of the vehicle and it works perfectly. I used a different placement than what I've seen everyone else. I felt this would allow the actuator to operator more smoothly without binding.
I used 1/4" nylon spacers to drop the actuator down from the uneven mounting surface and used another spacer on the lock mechanism to keep the rod from having too much play. I messed up the original rod that came in the kit trying to mount it like others have done, so I got a new rod from Lowes and came up with this arrangement.
The wires run out the bottom passenger side of the tailgate, where I drilled a hole and inserted a 1/4" rubber grommet. Then I used split loom and eletrical tape to finish it off (not shown.) I still need to wire up a disconnect and wire it into the cabin. I tapped into the V and G/Y wires under the passenger door finisher.
Looks good. I tried to use the rod that came with my actuator but, for the life of me, could not find a mounting position that didn't bind up. I ended up making a small stainless steel bracket. Yours looks to be in good position.
I found the same exact DEI actuator kit that Circuit City sells for $29.9x for $19.9x at Fry's. Just a FYI!
This is for those of you that don't want to wait on the postman. The Kit comes with Plumbers Tape,
some wire, and other junk. There is a photo a few pages back.
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2004 Nissan Titan KC SE 4x4 with Big Tow package- Zoomers exhaust tip, Rear-view screen in sunglass pocket, scanguage intergrated into overhead console, power tailgate lock.
1982 Delorean DMC-12 Turbo (Vin #10696)
2000 Toyota Camry CNG Powered
1999 Forest River Sandpiper 21R 5th wheel trailer
When I popped off the front passenger rocker cover, there was a cable tray underneath ncontaining the wires. I popped off the cable tray cover, and inside, I found the violet and G/Y wires just where the come out of the harness. That made it easy to tap the wires without cutting into the harness. Plus my connections fit under the cable tray cover neatly.
I just did this mod today. It works great. It was much easier to tap into the electrical as described above.
SarkaZm had a great tip on page one about finding the violet and the green/yellow wires under the drivers side step panel. Attached is a pic as to where that is. Nice and easy to work on with plenty of room for the splices.
Also I think the easiest way to run the wiring might be just right inside the frame tubing. I didn't do this because by the time I figured out it would work, I was almost done, but there are side holes on the frame near where the wire needs to exit, and it is easy to get into it in the back. I think it would be possible to fish it though there quite easily. Plus the holes in the frame are rounded and not sharp. I think it would work, and would be worth checking into because it is a pain running the wire up over the shock and the other thing you have to go over. (can't remember what it was).
Great mod! Shift_Beer
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2005 Titan LE CC FFV 4WD in Red Alert w/ Big Tow
Retrax Rolling Cover
Tailgate Lock Mod
Airbox Mod
SarkaZm had a great tip on page one about finding the violet and the green/yellow wires under the drivers side step panel. Attached is a pic as to where that is. Nice and easy to work on with plenty of room for the splices.
Also I think the easiest way to run the wiring might be just right inside the frame tubing. I didn't do this because by the time I figured out it would work, I was almost done, but there are side holes on the frame near where the wire needs to exit, and it is easy to get into it in the back. I think it would be possible to fish it though there quite easily. Plus the holes in the frame are rounded and not sharp. I think it would work, and would be worth checking into because it is a pain running the wire up over the shock and the other thing you have to go over. (can't remember what it was).
Great mod! Shift_Beer
Yep, that's it. Definately easier than getting to the kick panel under the dash! Glad it helped
I spent the last two nights doing this. Maybe I'm not as mechanically inclined as some of you but I found it to be a b*tch. I had no problem wiring the thing up and running the wires, I actually ran mine through the frame using fish tape. I couldn't get the thing to work without binding using the mouting location (I not have a bunch of holes in my gate) and methods on the guides I found. I found the plumbers tape to be a little too flimsy when bent. I ended up making an "L" using two screws and one of the little clamps that came with the actuator, then the plumbing tape stays straight. It works as long as the screw through the actuator doesn't rotate. We'll see how long it lasts.
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If your not the lead dog, the view never changes.
I spent the last two nights doing this. Maybe I'm not as mechanically inclined as some of you but I found it to be a b*tch. I had no problem wiring the thing up and running the wires, I actually ran mine through the frame using fish tape. I couldn't get the thing to work without binding using the mouting location (I not have a bunch of holes in my gate) and methods on the guides I found. I found the plumbers tape to be a little too flimsy when bent. I ended up making an "L" using two screws and one of the little clamps that came with the actuator, then the plumbing tape stays straight. It works as long as the screw through the actuator doesn't rotate. We'll see how long it lasts.
Well, if I remeber correctly making the bracket WAS the difficult part. I did not use plummers tape, I ended up using a heavy gage clamp that I was able to bend into an "L" shape. Although it appeared to me that the actuator may bind up I go tired of repositioning it and drilled where I thought it binded the least. I havn't had any problems with it since. Just be sure you can get everything good and tight so the actuator body moves as little as possible. I'd did take me a while but it was well worth the hastle. Good Luck!
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