Tailgate Power Lock

[killcatzforfun]

yeah anyone in florida wanna help me with it or make a mini meet somewhere and everyone can do it ?

[mglick18]

This is sweet thanks for the great write up I have my parts on order and will be upgrading as soon as they come in.

[konigfritz]

It's pretty easy to do. you'll love it!

[Machado7]

I did this mod this am. It is Big Bang for low buck- 4.95 plus shipping. I had the wire, ect laying around. Here is a summary of the best of the best tips I got from the great posts here. I really owe you guys a fishn trip in Charleston, SC:
1. Order the actuator from Parts express (see post #47 this thread- 4.95$)(same as post #60- identical, but not 30$)
2. Mount the actuator pointing down and use the wire to loop under the black plastic part of the tailgate lock (see post #44 this thread). We have learned alot since post#1 blazed the trail. Experience had shown that post 44 requires no removal of parts or clips, No bracket to make, no drilling of lock parts, ect, ect. Fast, easy, clean. Be prepared to tweak the rod until its just right w/o binding and had proper position to push AND pull far enough.)
3. Use post #1 on this thread to get your big picture and supplies ready.
4. Use an existing hole (or make one if none unused on your truck) to exit the side or bottom of the tailgate. Check for this exit before you take anything off the tailgate. See posts #6 and #61.
5. Make the quick disconnect plug in case you ever need to remove your tailgate. (I used an old trailer light plug male and female.) Critical in my opinion.
6. Run the wire in the frame - more protected, faster and easier (see post 68.)
7. Use the rubber plug behind the back seats to enter the cab (see post #1- this thread)
8. Route the wires below the step panels. See post #68 and #1.
9. Use the violet (purple?) and Green w/ Yellow stripe wires under the front passenger step panel. (there are 2 of each, so I had to use trial and error. I suggest you try the larger Violet and larger Green w/ Y stripe wires- thats what did it for my CC). If you use the driver side wires, follow colors on post #1). No need to enter the kick panels- use the step panels. See post #68 for drivers side example.

Special thanks to pciley who got this started w/ an INCREDIBLE write up from scratch, to SarkaZm for the parts links and the step panel site of easy access to wires, duffer18 for the PDF, Baseballfanz for the "black plastic- don't remove the lock" trick, and the amazingly simple mounting (see post #44), and Dacotah for the frame route and step panel pic. You guys make us all look smart!!! Some of you even took the time to post retrospective improvements that you didn't get to take advantage of, but wanted to share with us. Thats pretty self-less- and generous. Your time to document an easier and better way is such a blessing.

Hope this post helps organize all these great posts/ ideas into one place.

[SarkaZm]

Enjoy, it's a nice mod. Mine has been flawless since.

[dalt1]

Have had mine in for over 2 years and still works perfect.

[Miked1]

I've not done this mod yet, but have a few general suggestions that ya'all may find helpful.

1) To test if you have the correct wires, there is no need to strip the insulation!!
Just take 2 small straight pins (like from a new shirt package) and insert them into the wires at about a 45* angle. You can then wrap the wire to the pins & test the clicker.
If you 'poked' the wrong wires, then just remove them & dab a bit of nailpolish/paint/quick dry epoxy ect. to seal the little pin hole.

Having 2 people for this helps as 1 can just touch the wires to the pins while the other operates the clicker.

2) You may want to invest in a cheap multimeter from RadioShack ($17).
Can't tell you how many times this has paid for itself in the last 20 years I've owned mine.
Perfect for jobs like this (clicker should cause the meter to 'jump' if you have the right wires), simple continunity testing and the all important "are you SURE this circuit is not hot ?" verification !

[Machado7]

Originally Posted by Miked1

I've not done this mod yet, but have a few general suggestions that ya'all may find helpful.

1) To test if you have the correct wires, there is no need to strip the insulation!!
Just take 2 small straight pins (like from a new shirt package) and insert them into the wires at about a 45* angle. You can then wrap the wire to the pins & test the clicker.
If you 'poked' the wrong wires, then just remove them & dab a bit of nailpolish/paint/quick dry epoxy ect. to seal the little pin hole.

Having 2 people for this helps as 1 can just touch the wires to the pins while the other operates the clicker.

2) You may want to invest in a cheap multimeter from RadioShack ($17).
Can't tell you how many times this has paid for itself in the last 20 years I've owned mine.
Perfect for jobs like this (clicker should cause the meter to 'jump' if you have the right wires), simple continunity testing and the all important "are you SURE this circuit is not hot ?" verification !

I did both tricks (using liquid electrical tape, not nail polish) and I agree. I do think a check of the actuator directly to the pins is wise, just to confirm the meter findings before you move on.

Good for you for mentioning these hints. I neglected to record them.

[BuckyBadger]

I did this mod in the spring when I got my truck and my friends go nuts over it. I since put a quick disconnect in the harness so if I ever have to remove the tailgate I can.....

[Miked1]

Originally Posted by Machado7

I did both tricks (using liquid electrical tape, not nail polish) and I agree. I do think a check of the actuator directly to the pins is wise, just to confirm the meter findings before you move on.

Good for you for mentioning these hints. I neglected to record them.

Ahh yes - testing is most definitely your friend !!!
The electrical corollary to the wood workers mantra - 'measure twice, cut once' !

[Machado7]

Originally Posted by Miked1

Ahh yes - testing is most definitely your friend !!!
The electrical corollary to the wood workers mantra - 'measure twice, cut once' !

Yup- thats it.

[Energizer]

I've seriously thought about doing this mod, but I would need to check the wiring and verify, that if tampered with (since the wires run outside the cab), nobody could add voltage or short the system to open the doors (and the tail gate). That would be a huge security flaw... although I doubt many people would know the mod has been done to look for wiring...

[TitanBlue]

Even if somebody added 12 volt to open the doors, th ealarm woulld likel stil be set, and would sound. But, I wouldn't worry about this event, not too likely somebody will spend that much time to open the Titan. A brick is much faster.

[Energizer]

alarm is deactivated when the locks unlock.

[konigfritz]

Depends on how they are unlocked.

Lock the doors with the windows down, reach through and unlock the doors. Try not to wet yourself. LOL