HOW TO: Install B&M Transmission Temp Gauge Kit - Page 4

*Titan1219* · 04-29-2006, 01:09 PM

the autometer sensor is pipe thread also. And it fits and works. Im not following you here. What exactly is the issue?

SOCALTITANKC4X4LE · 04-29-2006, 11:00 PM

I just remembered that I forgot to say that along with thread sealant that is made for sensors, I also used an "O" ring.

blueskys · 05-02-2006, 06:13 PM

After reading the post by DeanP, it sounded like the B&M sensor had a sloppy fit in the test port. I think the test port is a great idea. I just don't want to strip any threads on my tranny case.

SOCALTITANKC4X4LE · 05-02-2006, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueskys

After reading the post by DeanP, it sounded like the B&M sensor had a sloppy fit in the test port. I think the test port is a great idea. I just don't want to strip any threads on my tranny case.

You won't strip the threads in the tranny port because the sensor is made of brass, which is alot softer, so the sensor would be the one to strip it's threads.

greg w · 05-03-2006, 10:20 AM

The Autometer gauge is a nice tight fit with no leaks. I didn't use the O ring, just pipe joint compound.

I did also find while under there that 3 bolts on the transfer case were coming out and leaking. Took it to the dealer and they also believe there is some seepage around the 4 wheel drive actuator. They have ordered a new one and it is covered under the warranty.

The trans mount bolts were coming out also which I tightened myself but the dealer said they have had several with them coming loose, so you might want to check yours.

I like my dealer and their service, Gates NIssan in Richmond, KY. They have a large window in the waiting area where you can sit and watch your service being performed. They even washed the underside of my truck where the fluid blew back when it was leaking!!!!!!

blueskys · 05-03-2006, 06:07 PM

Wow! That is excellent dealer service. I wish all dealerships were as good.
Thouroughbred Nissan in Tucson is good for service,IMHO.

BREWDOG · 05-03-2006, 06:11 PM

Nothing to do with this posting. OK STUPID question how do you create a new posting

blueskys · 05-04-2006, 07:37 PM

Heck if I know! I started this post a long time ago. Too many beers!

StuntDriver06 · 05-25-2006, 01:59 PM

well in my experience with gearboxes (mainly helicopter gearboxes) the line going to the cooler would really be the best place, gives you an overall so to speak of the tranny temp... because really the same fluid goes through the entire tranny and heats up as it goes and should be the warmest as it leaves the tranny (only exception should be maybe the converter)

blueskys · 05-27-2006, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StuntDriver06

well in my experience with gearboxes (mainly helicopter gearboxes) the line going to the cooler would really be the best place, gives you an overall so to speak of the tranny temp... because really the same fluid goes through the entire tranny and heats up as it goes and should be the warmest as it leaves the tranny (only exception should be maybe the converter)

Yes, this may be true. But most folks are concerned about introducing contaminates into the fluid when they cut the metal cooler lines. The best way to avoid this is to just put the sensor into the transmission test port. The transmission case is aluminum, so I would think the temp would almost be as accurate.

StuntDriver06 · 05-30-2006, 06:47 PM

i agree, the test port is the best place, i wouldn't consider cutting my tranny line

blueskys · 06-01-2006, 07:01 PM

By the way, I am a Crew Chief on HH-60.
And I control all the excess F-15, C-135, and engines in the AF inventory.

blueskys · 11-26-2006, 01:24 PM

I installed the B&M kit sensor into the test port with no problem. It fit like a champ and no leaks have developed. Thanks for the tip.

XRING600 · 12-18-2006, 07:59 PM

blueskys,

Where did you get the 12volts for the meter?

SirKeats · 09-27-2007, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueskys

STEP 1: Gain access to backside of bezel by firmly grabing top of dash sill and pull aft. The bezel is held in by clips and will seperate from the dash with minimal force. Once the bezel is about 2-3 inches from dash, reach behind plastic plug and push it out with your fingers. Place a butter knife under the lip of plug and force it full out of bezel.

Sorry to bring back and otherwise dead thread, but I discovered an alternate way to perform step one here that I've not seen mentioned elsewhere.

You can pop out the plug in question from underneath the driver side dash without pulling the bezel out/off.

Recline driver side seat all the way and get in - backwards (LOL) so you can access under the dash. Get a bright light and shine up towards where the plug is located. You'll see it up there and should have a straight shot at it with a long prodding device of some sort (I didn't have a screw driver long enough... so I used a really long file).

You'll need one of the two retaining tabs to be facing you so if you don't see one, you'll need to rotate the plug until you do (you would do this from the front of the dash... not behind). At any rate, take your long "stick" and gently push up on the retaining tab to disengage it. The plug will pop out slightly.

Then have your wife help you extract your contorted body from out under the dash and pull the plug the rest of the way out!

I don't know how quick it is to pull the dash bezel out... so this might take you a couple minutes longer (took me about 30 seconds once I located the plug)... but with this method you don't have to pull on anything that could potentially crack/break etc. And with my luck, that was bound to be exactly what happened! LOL