Installation of SAW's, Traction Bars, UCA's and Cambolts - Page 2

**Blackbeauty** · 04-17-2008, 08:09 PM

IIRC, the hats are not through-bolted. So the bolt will hit the bottom of the tapped hole before it's tight, I believe. Definitely call Greg in the morning. He'll get the new bolts out to you quick, I'm sure.

KILLswitch · 04-29-2008, 03:12 PM

thanks for the walk through on the install, the lift came out real nice here are some pics,

GrayB83 · 05-18-2008, 07:46 PM

Just finished up my install today. Driverside front kicked our a$$, we weren't really paying attention to any directions and ended up doing some unnecessary steps. We flew through the rest of the install though, passenger side shock and uca and rear shock and block took only about 2 hrs. Thanks BB for detailed instructions and pics, they definately helped me out.

AF-Medic · 05-18-2008, 09:00 PM

Hows the ride? Were you surprised at all with the ride?

papojengo · 12-06-2008, 07:07 PM

awesome write up

BoilerUp · 12-06-2008, 09:35 PM

Very nice write up. Just curious what you paid for this setup. It looks great, a lot better than just a leveling kit. And sounds like it would be worth it when you talk about the difference in ride and feel of the truck. Interested..

chrisr400cc · 01-09-2009, 07:31 PM

I couldn't get the driver side upper a-arm bolt off for the life of me. Mostly because my 19mm open wrench was a pos. So I disconnected the steer shaft and was able to get a socket in there. Was this a bad idea? I reconnected it the same way it came off. Also a dumb question but I got to ask, is there any difference between the left and right prg's a-arms? I don't see any markings and they both look identical.

**Blackbeauty** · 01-09-2009, 07:34 PM

Not a bad idea as long as you got it back on there tight.

And the UCA's are identical. It matters not which one goes on which side.

chrisr400cc · 01-09-2009, 07:46 PM

Thanks man. Oh and i'm using your write up to install mine and it's going good so far. Just about done with the driver side and I will start the passenger side tomorrow. Your write up is helping out a lot. Thanks

**Blackbeauty** · 01-09-2009, 07:47 PM

Glad to help! You're gonna love the ride when you're done!

chrisr400cc · 01-10-2009, 07:33 PM

I got the lift on. The install wasn't too bad. It was a little difficult getting the coil hats on. If those 3 screws were just 1/4" longer it would have been a lot easier. Your write up helped out a lot. I used all your torque specs except for the uni-ball bolt, I torqued it to 100 ft lbs. 58 ft lbs seemed a little low to me and since there is no cotter pin with these a-arms i didn't trust 58 ft lbs.

I took it for test drive and it handles great. I have the sway bar off right now and I think I might put it back on. It seemed to sway a lot on the turns.

**Blackbeauty** · 01-11-2009, 08:44 AM

Glad you got the suspension on.... Although I'm concerned about your overtorqueing the spindle nuts....

Trusting "my" numbers isn't the issue... They're Nissan's numbers. I know what happens when torque is misapplied. Do you?

I see it everyday in my profession. As an Engineer, I understand what torque is and what it does. When you torque something, you are actually stretching the bolt. Now, you applied almost twice the specified torque to the spindle threads. Granted, they are rated much higher, but there's a reason they are to be torqued to only 58 ft-lb.

You may have an issue, but most likely you won't. We all know how "over-designed" Engineers make things. Hope it works out for you!

chrisr400cc · 01-11-2009, 11:04 AM

I read PRG's Upper A-Arm Installation Notes and it says tighten to 100ft/lbs. Does Nissan recommend 58ft/lbs on the stock spindle bolt and Greg recommend 100ft/lbs on his bolt because the new bolt is stronger?

Also, do you know why their is no cotter pin on the new spindle bolt?