Would anyone have a idea where I could pick up a sliding pin boot (rubber accordion boot shown in pic) besides the dealership?
TO purchase one from my dealership would require a front brake kit for apx $25
I don't think you can get just the boot. You can save a little and get just the boot pin kit for about $17. Are they trying to get you to buy the whole seal kit?
I might still have one of my used boots if that's all you need. If I can find it I can send it to you in the mail. One of my pins broke during reassembly on my last brake job, even though I was using a torque wrench, and it may be laying around with the boot on it in the garage. The boot pin kit comes with two pins, two bolts and two boots, and it's cheap insurance if you ask me. The boots can dry out and crack over time. Even though only one of the two on that side broke, I replaced them both.
This may be obvious, but be sure to use some brake grease on the pin before you put the boot back on.
Would anyone have a idea where I could pick up a sliding pin boot (rubber accordion boot shown in pic) besides the dealership?
TO purchase one from my dealership would require a front brake kit for apx $25
Pick a part.
I bet they are similar on all kinds of cars.
And for about 2 bucks?
You can see all kinds of junk.
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My has almost nothing compared to some of you guys, but I still like it.
Red meat is not bad for you. Fuzzy green meat is bad for you.
You know you had a great night last night when you make it home the next day missing at least half your clothes.
Let him that hath understanding count the number of the beast: for it is the number of a man; and his number is Six hundred threescore and six.
Iron Maiden
Integrity is someting you cannot buy. You either have it, or you don't. You do not want to not have it.
I replaced the front rotors and pads with the Frozen Rotors (slotted) and hawk LTS pads like you did, and am very impressed with how smooth and consistent the brakes are. The only issue is that the brakes lack "bite". Is this a property of these pads, or is something not right? I flushed the brake fluid all around and burnished the new pads in as recommended. They have been in since May including a towing trip of ~ 3000 miles. I did notice that they have no fade under long braking (which I think you commented on).
I haven't touched the rear pads/rotors because they were replaced under the original recall and still have more than half their life left.
If what you mean is that they don't immediately put you through the windshield when you hit the brakes, then yes, I noticed that too.... at first.
Personally, I don't really want that in my vehicle.
What I have notices is a smooth, progressive grab that changes to an udder JOLT when you apply the brakes moderately at first, then slowly add pedal pressure..... If you stomp on them to really whoa it down after applying the pedal, it WILL put you through the windshield.
After your brakes are set a while, try that... You'll see what I mean.
Installed mine this past weekend (weather was too nice, I couldn't resist). Two things I ran into doing it.
The two large bolts (torque bolts) that hold the caliper carrier on the front brakes were very difficult to remove. The dealership had serviced them for shudder about 3 years ago. Turns out they gooped on a bunch of green or yellow thread lock compound, causing them to groan and creak all the way out. I was using a 24" long breaker bar, and it was all I could do to get them out. Once I got them out and cleaned off the threads, put them back in by hand easily. I put a normal amount of blue thread lock on them for re-install.
I found out why my parking brakes we not working and making all sorts of noises. All of the brake material had seperated form the metal part of the shoes, so the brake liners were just laying in the bottom of the drums. They were just rolling around in there, grinding themselves to bits. For the time being, I removed all of the parking brake components from the truck.
Took the truck out to burnish the pads, stops very smoothly. After a few stops, I could feel the stopping power getting better. The slotted rotors do make a 'whooshing' sound when you stop, kinda sounds like a big fan. Will keep everyone updated on stopping power after they are broken in.
__________________ - 2004 Galaxy Black KC OR 4x4 -
Towing Mods: B&W gooseneck hitch, Nissan aluminum finned diff cover, Amsoil 75w-140 synth gear lube, Tekonsha Voyager brake controller, 7-way plug where the 12v bed outlet used to be.
Thanks for this post BB. I will be doing my brakes this week, and I will let you guys know how it works out. I am just swapping with OEM rotors, because I found a spot locally to get them for $42 each. Also installing Hawk LTS pads.
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2005 LE King Cab 4x4 Offroad pkg Big Tow, Purchased used on 2008/11/30.
Silver with charcoal leather interior, black Nissan OEM brush guard, 285-70-17 BFG All Terrain T/A KO's on OEM OR 7-spoke 17" rims, 2 degree timing advance, Magnaflow 14" SI/SO muffler on stock pipes with 12" T304 stainless double-wall tip, OEM Rockford Fosgate audio system, Protecta chrome tool box, 6000K HID headlights, TomTom GO 920 Navigation system.
Future mod wish list:
6" Procomp stage I lift, SAWs, TC UCAs, 35x12.5x20's on 20X10 wheels
CAI, headers, catback exhaust
Bushwacker pocket style flares
Custom paint job over this OEM crap!
Thanks for this post BB. I will be doing my brakes this week, and I will let you guys know how it works out. I am just swapping with OEM rotors, because I found a spot locally to get them for $42 each. Also installing Hawk LTS pads.
New Nissan OEM rotors for $42? Do tell. They are $100 online for the front rotors.
New Nissan OEM rotors for $42? Do tell. They are $100 online for the front rotors.
Hmmmm. hope they work out for him. Cost isn't everything, but OTOH you get what you pay for.
__________________ - 2004 Galaxy Black KC OR 4x4 -
Towing Mods: B&W gooseneck hitch, Nissan aluminum finned diff cover, Amsoil 75w-140 synth gear lube, Tekonsha Voyager brake controller, 7-way plug where the 12v bed outlet used to be.
Yeah, it was through a local Ford dealer who I usually get to order my aftermarket stuff. He ordered them in for another guy who owned a Titan and the dude never picked them up. There was only one set of each front and rear. I'm not sure how I ended up getting them so cheap, because the guy who ordered them was going to pay $110 each. That's the price he told me originally...but when the salesman rang the stuff in it came up as $42 each, and I wasn't going to argue lol. I think they just had them marked down to get them out of there. I am also a believer in "you get what you pay for" ; however, I'm also not one to pass up a deal. If I would have been paying full price I would have gone with the frozen rotors for sure.
__________________
2005 LE King Cab 4x4 Offroad pkg Big Tow, Purchased used on 2008/11/30.
Silver with charcoal leather interior, black Nissan OEM brush guard, 285-70-17 BFG All Terrain T/A KO's on OEM OR 7-spoke 17" rims, 2 degree timing advance, Magnaflow 14" SI/SO muffler on stock pipes with 12" T304 stainless double-wall tip, OEM Rockford Fosgate audio system, Protecta chrome tool box, 6000K HID headlights, TomTom GO 920 Navigation system.
Future mod wish list:
6" Procomp stage I lift, SAWs, TC UCAs, 35x12.5x20's on 20X10 wheels
CAI, headers, catback exhaust
Bushwacker pocket style flares
Custom paint job over this OEM crap!
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