How To: Hands Free Tailgate

[Blavis]

Well it is almost hands free. You still have to close it...for now.

YouTube - Nissan Titan Keyless Entry Tailgate

With help from a great friend, we were able to work out a few kinks and bring this project to life. Although it sounds difficult and there are many steps involved to make this happen, it is relatively easy to accomplish.

Disclaimer: This mod is in the beginning stages. I’m not sure of the long term affects of using electronic actuators on a device that was designed to be used manually. (Although pciley’s Power Locking Tailgate has been in use for a few years without any problems.) Please mod at your own risk.


Materials needed:

-(2) 2 wire actuators. (1) Actuator for lock/unlock. (1) actuator to open. (I purchased the Autoloc ZT series. Actuators (It may not be necessary to buy actuators this strong. I am curious to see if some of the lighter duty actuators can open the tailgate. The Autoloc actuators also come with all of the linkage required to activate the components.)
-60ft of 16 gauge red wire (30ft per actuator)
-60ft of 16 gauge black wire (30ft per actuator)
-Electric tape
-(4)Butt connectors
-(3 or 4) Wire taps (Either way is fine. I used 1 tap to connect both red wires to the violet wire.)
-(4) Male quick disconnects
-(6) Female quick disconnects
-Zip ties
-20ft of wire flex loom
-(1) 2 terminal rocker switch

Tools Needed:

-Light duty drill
-Drill bit (slightly smaller than screws used to mount actuators.)
-Phillips head screwdriver
-T30 Torx driver (required on some tailgates)
-Flat head screwdriver
-Wire stripper tool
-Crimping tool
- Door/interior panel tool (optional)
-Multimeter or test light (optional, great for testing wires before tapping)
- Needle nose pliers and/or channel lock pliers

Two other features must be in place before you can add the ability to open the tailgate with the key fob/ power door locks.

If you have a 2004 Titan, Start here: Titan Gas Assist Tail Gate Retro Fit 03/04

If you have a 2005 and newer Titan or a 2004 Titan with tailgate assist, Start here: Tailgate Power Lock
The tailgate power lock thread is extremely detailed. Pciley did an excellent job explaining the installation of parts and routing wires. Other than a few differences under the dash and at the tailgate, this mod follows the same guidelines as pciley’s mod. I will refer to that thread quite often in this write up.


Okay. Now that you have successfully completed Power Locking Tailgate Mod it is time to move on to the next step. Mounting the latch actuator.

I mounted the latch actuator on the second brace to the left(Driver side) of the latch assembly. Mount the actuator parallel to the latch linkage bar and aim it towards the latch assembly. Drill small holes in the brace to make it easier to install the mounting screws to the actuator.
The Autoloc actuator came with a nice steel rod and mounting adapters which made it very easy to connect the actuator to the latch linkage. From the tip of the actuator leave about 1” running parallel before making the first bend. Bend the rod at a 90° angle towards the latch linkage. You’ll want to get the rod about a ¼ of an inch from the linkage. From there make another 90° bend so that the rod is once again running parallel with the latch linkage. Immediately after that bend, install the mounting adapter to the actuator rod and latch linkage. From there you can most likely cut off the excess remains of the actuator rod. I left the remaining portion and attached another mounting adapter further down the rod near the latch assembly. (It’s probably overkill)



Now that the actuator is in place, it’s time to run some wires. I started at the tailgate and worked my way to the cab. (Whatever is easiest for you.) On the side of the tailgate near the bottom there are little adhesive vinyl tabs. (One on each side) Remove the tab and you will find a perfect hole to fish the wires out of the tailgate. Route the wires through the hinge area just as pciley did in his thread. Once you get the wires near the trailer hitch area, Install quick disconnects to the wires just in case the tailgate ever has to be removed.


You can go about the procedure two ways. I was dead set on running wires down the passenger side of the truck based on some false information about wires being located on the passenger side. (That’s what I get for not seeking info on TT first.) You can also run the wires just as pciley suggested in his thread. Both methods are just fine although I did discover a very large opening on the passenger rear portion of the cab. It is a ventilation flap located on the passenger side rear wall that is about 8”x8” in size. I’m not sure if the CC Titans have this as well. It made it very easy to get the wires into the cab.


Run the wires along the frame underneath the bed using protective flex loom. Attach the loomed wires to the frame with zip ties every 6-8 inches to ensure that nothing will interfere with the wires.


When you get the wires into the cab, there are once again more options. You can either run the wires along the back wall to the driver’s side of the cab or run the wires along the passenger side of the cab and route the wires under the dash to the driver side. (Hint: I know it sounds like more work than is needed, but removing the rear seat and spare tire tools/mount make it much easier to run the wires through the back wall.) I chose to run the wires on the passenger side and under the dash since I already had my stereo amplifier wiring routed in the same direction.

Now the wires are located near the keyless entry/power door harness. I tapped into the driver side door wiring to activate the lock/unlock like suggested in pciley’s thread.
To activate the actuator to open the tailgate, I tapped into the passenger door wiring. This will allow the tailgate to open by pressing the unlock button on the key fob twice within 5 seconds or by pressing the unlock button on the door.
Obviously you don’t want to open your tailgate every time you unlock the doors to let passengers in the truck so a 2 terminal rocker switch is also necessary to have the ability to remove the option when it is not needed. (I am hoping this is temporary. There may be a better way to do this by reprogramming the key fob using Consult II software.)

The wiring is as follows:

Connect the red wire to the violet wire just like you did when you did pciley’s power lock mod. Connect the black wire to the green/yellow wire. The green/yellow wire activates the passenger door lock actuator. Wrap those wires and taps with electric tape when finished.


Now it’s time to go back to the tailgate and connect the actuators. The Autoloc actuators came with green and blue wires attached to them. For the power lock/unlock actuator I connected the red and blue wires together and the black and green wires together. I connected the red and green wires together and the black and blue wires together to connect the latch actuator.

Power lock/unlock: Red/Blue & Black/Green

Latch: Red/Green & Black/ Blue

It would be a good idea to temporarily connect the wires to test polarity. Once you have the actuators moving in the correct direction you can connect them using butt connectors.


To wire up the rocker switch, simply tap into each wire (red and black) and connect those wires to your switch by using your last two remaining female quick disconnects. Mount the switch where ever you find it most convenient. I mounted mine next to the tow mode button below the radio since I don’t have TCS or whatever feature is controlled there.
You will also need to do a polarity test on the switch depending on how you want the on/off to operate. Just swap the wires on the back of the switch to get it the way you want it to operate.


Alright, everything is mounted and wired. Is it working? If so, good job! You are finished. Put all the panels and covers back together, clean up your tools, and have a beer.

Something tells me it isn’t working yet…correct?

The final step to this mod is to adjust the tension on the latch. Located on the top and bottom of the latch assembly are yellow plastic clips. This is where you can adjust the tension of the linkage. Very carefully open the clips by pressing the tabs. Once the clips are open you can move the linkage to loosen the amount of force required to open the tailgate. Your goal is to find the fine line of when it will and won’t open with the key fob to ensure that the tailgate will also close tightly. You may need to test it a few times and make adjustments as needed. That last thing you want is the tailgate falling while driving.



Okay…Make sure the switch is turned on and give it a shot. Is it working now? I hope so!

If you have any comments, questions, concerns, etc please send me a PM or post on this thread. There were a few trials and errors encountered while creating this mod. I am pretty certain all of the bugs have been worked out. Hopefully I covered all of the necessary steps needed and this feature will work well for you.

Happy Modding!

[Arachnid]

Nice job Blavis, this thread deserves to be a sticky

[4mula1fan]

Nicely done!!! You get a cookie!!

[titanss]

Cool Write Up!!!!!

[ZN1300]

Awesome mod & how to Blavis...

Thanks for taking the time to write it up.

[SiMpLyMoDiFiEd]

Sweet I will be doing this soon as the parts come in!

[MXtitan24]

love it great mod

[titanupgirl425]

thats awesome! i would totally do that.. but im not about to attepmt.. other wise i may end up with my tailgate flying off!! hahaha

[Blackbeauty]

I tried this once.... Ended up with my tailgate opening and shutting at breakneck speed like a piranha......


Nice job Blave!!! Give that man TWO cookies!

[layer1]

Excellent write up!!!

[Blownbayou]

Good mod but I wish the dash switch could be omitted some how....Maybe run the actuators to the wire that controls the auto window down feature via keyfob.

Other than that...Very interesting and a great write up

[Blavis]

Originally Posted by Blownbayou

Good mod but I wish the dash switch could be omitted some how....Maybe run the actuators to the wire that controls the auto window down feature via keyfob.

Other than that...Very interesting and a great write up

I am hoping the switch is temporary. I wanted to make sure this mod was actually going to work before I started looking into better control options. I considered disabling the panic button features, but the horn relay and flashers would have to be removed...those components are kind of important.

The Consult-II program can reprogram the key fob functions and length of time required to hold down certain buttons to activate different features. I am still researching this option and looking into a way to access it. Where's a money tree when you need it?

Also, I forgot to add this helpful tip to the write up. Braiding the wires helps speed up the wire routing and makes the install look much cleaner.IMO

YouTube - How to twist wires

^^That's not me BTW.^^