OEM Oil in Titan?

[casique]

My sales dude told me that the Titan comes with synthetic engine oil. Is he on drugs? I looked through the owner's manual and found no such reference. Does anyone know? Thanks.

[BudmanHemi]

He's probably on drugs!! never heard of a dealer putting synthetic oil from factory. My VW reccomended oil ever 7k, but i dont think it was sythetic. I went through this on DTW. My synthetic is better posts, and my oil, and filter only needs changed every 10k miles, etc.. etc.. I chose too stick with the cheap mopar oil, and filter made by chevron. Change it every 3k, and there wont be no problems. I am sure there is way better oil out there that last longer, but with new motors as you and i got, i chose too stick with my OEM, and warranty issues will be resolved alot easier if any problems arise. Just my opinion.

[CaliforniaTitan]

While there may be something 'added' to the oil for 'break-in' its not a synthetic that comes in if from the factory.

Also, don't know about your dealers...but my local does all thier service changes with Valvoline and Nissan filters...

Chris

[FLfinfan]

Don't know what comes in it from the factory, but the mech. I spoke to at the dealer said they use "bulk" oil (?) when they change oil. I asked what type should I use, he said, "10W-30, no need for synthetic unless you gonna change it every 10k miles or so". I did my 1st change at 802 miles with Castrol GTX 10W-30.

[JetTech]

I sent out and oil sample of the factory fill oil in my Titan and it came back a 5W-30 with nothing special in it. Just plain jane 5W-30..........no extra moly or anything else for that matter..

[casique]

Thanks! My dealer offers synthetic oil changes for $49. Otherwise, the normal grade oil changes are free of charge for the first two years.

[bvstone1]

My salesperson said Nissan doesn't put in "break in oil" and it appears she was right judging by the oil analysis.

Dealer will be doing my first change at 1500 miles (any day now) for free, and after that I'm switching to Rotella T 5-30 or 5-40 synthetic. And I'll change it like I did with my tundra. Every 6 months, in the spring and in the fall. Maybe an extra one here or there if I do a lot of driving.

But, I sold my Tundra with 26k on it after 3 years... so it's obvious I don't put a lot of miles on. Nice to be self-employed.

[Optimist]

I thought it was recommended to thoroughly break an engine in before switching to synthetic, is this no longer true?

[JetTech]

Originally Posted by Optimist

I thought it was recommended to thoroughly break an engine in before switching to synthetic, is this no longer true?

We've hashed this over several times in the past on this forum. Just do a search on synthetic and break-in and I'm sure you'll have lots of reading to do.

[Truck41]

my dealer said that they use valvoline, that good enough for me.

[bvstone1]

Originally Posted by Optimist

I thought it was recommended to thoroughly break an engine in before switching to synthetic, is this no longer true?

And engine is broken in long before 4500 miles, which is when I will switch (after 2 dino changes).

[Optimist]

Thanks Jetforeman, I read that thread back when it was posted perhaps I missed something. I recall you used synthetic then switched because of noise I’ll go back & look. Wow.. I'm off topic here, but perhaps some will still find it interesting.

Years ago while rebuilding a 327 ¼ mile car Redline was my break in choice, it was strongly suggested that I use conventional only for 5 good runs,
Then again while rebuilding a 302 Hollman Moody in an old Donzi conventional was suggested for 30hrs before switching. Perhaps this is all old info, & I know Pat Goss says no break in required, heck my old car came from the factory with it, but the following support otherwise. My thought is what’s the harm, stay conventional with frequent changes & then switch if you care @ 7K or so.

http://www.aera.org/Consumer/breakin.htm
However, the use of synthetic engine oils is not recommended for the "break-in" period. Its outstanding ability to reduce wear by virtually eliminating friction between moving components is not desirable for a "break-in" oil. Certain predictable amounts of friction are required for proper "break-in" of piston and piston rings. AERA does not recommend the use of synthetic engine oils for the first 5,000 miles of service. Thereafter it is up to the vehicle owner to weight the cost of more expensive synthetic motor oils, manufacturer's oil classification recommendations and drain intervals.


Amsoil info, but it’s not exactly on topic but refers.
http://www.bestsyntheticoil.com/amsoil/seals.shtml
As I mentioned earlier, synthetic oils now contain special additives which maintain proper seal swell and keep them flexible so that seals and gaskets don't dry and crack in the first place. So, for those people who use synthetic oils from the start (after a 3,000 to 5,000 mile break-in period), the problem never becomes an issue.
Here is unorthodox approach to break in procedures, he recommends to never ever break in with synthetics.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Here is a great art. Chris refered to sometime ago.
A change to synthetic motor oil should wait until you new or rebuilt engine has completed the break-in period of six to eight thousand miles.
http://mr2.com/TEXT/synth_oil.txt

[SupraTitan]

Originally Posted by JetForeman

I sent out and oil sample of the factory fill oil in my Titan and it came back a 5W-30 with nothing special in it. Just plain jane 5W-30..........no extra moly or anything else for that matter..

JetForeman just curious if you have done UOA's since the initital UOA you did. I've seen your post on www.bobistheoilguy.com as well as here and its helped me decide to change the initial fill at the 1k mark. Also what oil have you been running since, i'm leaning towards chev. supreme 10w-30 for the warranty period then will probably go to either an Hdeo such as delo or delvac or possibly mobil 1 0w-40.

[JetTech]

Originally Posted by SupraTitan

JetForeman just curious if you have done UOA's since the initital UOA you did. I've seen your post on www.bobistheoilguy.com as well as here and its helped me decide to change the initial fill at the 1k mark. Also what oil have you been running since, i'm leaning towards chev. supreme 10w-30 for the warranty period then will probably go to either an Hdeo such as delo or delvac or possibly mobil 1 0w-40.

I haven't done any since, I've been on the road too much out of town. I was using the Chevron 10W-30 until the 9200 mile mark. At that time I switched over to Mobil 1 5W-30. I don't have any start up noises with it like I did with the M1 10W-30 so maybe this engine likes thinner weights at start-up. As of this time I've got a little over 2k miles on the oil. I'm planning on sending a sample out at the 3k mile mark to see what's happening in the engine. I'll make sure to report my findings.

[goathead]

just did my first oil change this weekend and used valvoline 10w-30. that is what the nissan service dept uses (at least thats what they told me, lol). i seem to notice a clicking(maybe valvetrain, maybe overestimating sounds). ill use this oil untill 3000 and then switch to something else but probably a dino oil. not sure though. any thoughts or comments on this?

steve