Well, the paint is peeling, surface rust, three oil marks and the lower part of the pumpkin is moist where it's supposed to be sealed. I just happen to look this morning before work, so I have'nt checked the level yet. Man I'm pissed. I guess my question is for the unfortunate souls that have already had this problem, did Nissan replace your rear end and if so did anyone find out(from the so called experts) why this is happening. Any input would be greatly appreciated. By the way my truck has 8,700 miles on it and have'nt even pulled my 4,000 LB. for more than 100 miles tops and mostly all the miles are highway miles unloaded. Also my truck has never been off-road, nor do I drive it like a sports car(tempting I must admit). Thank-You for letting me vent.
Take the fill plug out and see if the fluid level is close to the hole where it should be.It was way low on my Titan as well as on other people's Titan. Stick your little finger in there to use as a dipstick. This will tell you if you've been running close to dry. If you are close to dry, I would have your dealership take the cover off and look at the inside for damage. If you are running low, drain all of that cr** out, clean off the magnetic drain plug and refill with Mobil 1 gear oil. You will need two full bottles and part of the third one. Be sure to use a thread sealant on the plugs. Put some orange degreaser or some other kind of degreaser on a shop towel and wipe your rear end, oops I meant to say differential. This will allow you to keep up with leaks, if there are any, and where the leak is coming from.
__________________
BayouTitan
4X2 SE Radiant Silver
Popular Package
Big Tow Package
Utility Bed Package
Born on 12/03
Last edited by Bayou Titan; 07-23-2004 at 09:08 AM.
Just checked my fluid and couldnt feel it with my pinky. Went to Autozone got 3 quarts of mobil 1. My driveway is very steep due to that I was able to get 2 and a half quarts in, which is more then the recomended amount. Could I damage anything by overfilling it?
I just had my 7500 mile service and pitched a bit** at the service manager about my rear diff. They drained it and refilled it and cleaned the cover up and hit it with high heat paint. We will see where we go from there. I towed a 2000 lb boat 2000 miles on a long trip and average about 80 miles a week towing it during the summer. We will see if this crops up again.
__________________
SE Crew Cab Born on 03/04
Big Tow, Popular, and Utility Bed Packages. OEM Hood Protector, Seat Covers, and Fog Lamps
Fram Air Hog Filter, Chrome Nerf Bars, RollBak Tonneau, Husky floor liners
I just checked mine after JetTech's warning upon discovering his was low. He checked his after Titansurveyor lost his differential.
__________________
2004 Titan Smoke LE CC
Born 11/18/03
Bed Extender, Overhead Racks
Hood Protector, Banks Monster Exhaust, Volant CAI, Hellwig Rear Sway Bar, Bilstein shocks
Never argue with idiots. They'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.
-Gambit
My front was way low but the back was OK. My daughters rear dif is covered with rust in 2000 mi. but I checked and the fluid level is right where it should be? She just drove 1200 mi to here and it looks like unpainted and fresh rust about like the brake rotors look after a rain.
Mine looks new after 10,000 mi.
__________________
BORN ON 02/04 LE CC 4X4 OFFROAD White, DVD, Daytime running lights , Ultrasonic parking sensors,
Wade OEM deflector , Weatherflectors, ,Jason Hugger fiberglass toneau, Clear Shield film front paint ,Front window tint match to back, Cobra radar detector (hardwired) PRG 2" lift, Carbotech brakes & SS brake lines, Magnaflow catback dual exhaust, Chrome tailgate trim, Fatmat/Rattle trap sound deadener.
Well, I thought "surely my differential is OK", but sure as h#@@ wasn't, about 8 oz lower than spec, not too bad, but the oil was laced with some foreign substance, water or ??. Both plugs were barely finger tight on mine as well, and about a 1/8" layer of sludge and metal particles on the magnetic plug.
After a couple of trips to parts store, replaced the oil with Mobil 1 75W-90.
For those like me who are mechanically challenged, attached is a picture of necessary material. High Temp Thread Sealer is Permatex ($2.99), pump is Coastal ($3.19 at Autozone, well worth it, install on clean windshield washer cleaner gallon jug that uses a threaded cap, and it makes filling the diff a snap.) Use a 3/8" breaker bar with minimum radius on the corners for both diff plugs. On mine the drain plug had magnetic insert, the fill did not. After cleaning the old sealer and gunk off the plugs, apply permatex thread sealer per directions, install the drain plug, fill the Gallon jug with 2 quarts plus 4 oz (68 oz total) and pump it in.
Good luck and THANKS to those who post all of the useful data on this forum.
Dale
__________________ TitanWild DeepWater 4x2 KingCab SE,
Big Tow, RF Pop, and Bed Packages, 29Mar04 MDate, Custom Flo-Pro Crossflow Dual Exhaust,
JetTech Traction bars, K&N drop In, OEM Fogs, XD5 9005/9006 Xenon bulbs, Viper 350 Alarm.
I keep reading about these differential stories, what are you guys noticing to indicate they are low on fluid? Are they becoming noisy or what?
You want to hope you don't ever hear a noise in your diff. You need to make it a periodic habit to check the levels. Would be nice if everything with oil had a gauge even the trans. But because they don't that leaves you with the responsibility to either check it yourself or have someone else check it. I check mine every 3000 miles when I change my motor oil.
Well, I thought "surely my differential is OK", but sure as h#@@ wasn't, about 8 oz lower than spec, not too bad, but the oil was laced with some foreign substance, water or ??. Both plugs were barely finger tight on mine as well, and about a 1/8" layer of sludge and metal particles on the magnetic plug.
After a couple of trips to parts store, replaced the oil with Mobil 1 75W-90.
For those like me who are mechanically challenged, attached is a picture of necessary material. High Temp Thread Sealer is Permatex ($2.99), pump is Coastal ($3.19 at Autozone, well worth it, install on clean windshield washer cleaner gallon jug that uses a threaded cap, and it makes filling the diff a snap.) Use a 3/8" breaker bar with minimum radius on the corners for both diff plugs. On mine the drain plug had magnetic insert, the fill did not. After cleaning the old sealer and gunk off the plugs, apply permatex thread sealer per directions, install the drain plug, fill the Gallon jug with 2 quarts plus 4 oz (68 oz total) and pump it in.
Good luck and THANKS to those who post all of the useful data on this forum.
Dale
For someone mechanically challenged that's a great idea you have with the markings on the container. Looks like you got the recommended amount of oil marked on the container so you know you need to pump all that in. I'm going to do that too. I also got a cheap pump with a hose so I can just leave the container on the ground and just pump it in.
They also have those battery operated or even 12V (cigarette lighter plug-in) pumps so all you have to is hit the button Am I lazy? No....
Anyone with BIG TOW Notice their Trans Temp Guage climbing when the diff was baking the paint off?
CaliforniaTitan said the paint was peeling/rusting, right?
Yeah pc, I'm lazy, but could find only the hand pump! Never have noticed any change in my trans temp gauge. Once warmed up it stays in the same place. But, I've never towed anything either.
__________________ TitanWild DeepWater 4x2 KingCab SE,
Big Tow, RF Pop, and Bed Packages, 29Mar04 MDate, Custom Flo-Pro Crossflow Dual Exhaust,
JetTech Traction bars, K&N drop In, OEM Fogs, XD5 9005/9006 Xenon bulbs, Viper 350 Alarm.
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.