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Old 07-23-2004, 08:47 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Angry rear differential

Well, the paint is peeling, surface rust, three oil marks and the lower part of the pumpkin is moist where it's supposed to be sealed. I just happen to look this morning before work, so I have'nt checked the level yet. Man I'm pissed. I guess my question is for the unfortunate souls that have already had this problem, did Nissan replace your rear end and if so did anyone find out(from the so called experts) why this is happening. Any input would be greatly appreciated. By the way my truck has 8,700 miles on it and have'nt even pulled my 4,000 LB. for more than 100 miles tops and mostly all the miles are highway miles unloaded. Also my truck has never been off-road, nor do I drive it like a sports car(tempting I must admit). Thank-You for letting me vent.
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Old 07-23-2004, 09:06 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Take the fill plug out and see if the fluid level is close to the hole where it should be.It was way low on my Titan as well as on other people's Titan. Stick your little finger in there to use as a dipstick. This will tell you if you've been running close to dry. If you are close to dry, I would have your dealership take the cover off and look at the inside for damage. If you are running low, drain all of that cr** out, clean off the magnetic drain plug and refill with Mobil 1 gear oil. You will need two full bottles and part of the third one. Be sure to use a thread sealant on the plugs. Put some orange degreaser or some other kind of degreaser on a shop towel and wipe your rear end, oops I meant to say differential. This will allow you to keep up with leaks, if there are any, and where the leak is coming from.
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Old 07-23-2004, 05:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Mike,

I responded to your PM.

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Old 07-23-2004, 07:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Just checked my fluid and couldnt feel it with my pinky. Went to Autozone got 3 quarts of mobil 1. My driveway is very steep due to that I was able to get 2 and a half quarts in, which is more then the recomended amount. Could I damage anything by overfilling it?
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Old 07-23-2004, 07:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Overfilled should push out the breather....keep an eye on it and clean it off

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Old 07-23-2004, 08:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I just had my 7500 mile service and pitched a bit** at the service manager about my rear diff. They drained it and refilled it and cleaned the cover up and hit it with high heat paint. We will see where we go from there. I towed a 2000 lb boat 2000 miles on a long trip and average about 80 miles a week towing it during the summer. We will see if this crops up again.
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Old 07-23-2004, 09:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I keep reading about these differential stories, what are you guys noticing to indicate they are low on fluid? Are they becoming noisy or what?
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Old 07-23-2004, 09:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I just checked mine after JetTech's warning upon discovering his was low. He checked his after Titansurveyor lost his differential.
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Old 07-24-2004, 12:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yeah check your dif. and get the oil and nissan tread sealer. Mine was low-no warning except read posts on this forum.
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Old 07-24-2004, 12:46 PM   #10 (permalink)
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My front was way low but the back was OK. My daughters rear dif is covered with rust in 2000 mi. but I checked and the fluid level is right where it should be? She just drove 1200 mi to here and it looks like unpainted and fresh rust about like the brake rotors look after a rain.
Mine looks new after 10,000 mi.
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Old 07-25-2004, 03:07 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Mine Too. Info for Changing Oil

Well, I thought "surely my differential is OK", but sure as h#@@ wasn't, about 8 oz lower than spec, not too bad, but the oil was laced with some foreign substance, water or ??. Both plugs were barely finger tight on mine as well, and about a 1/8" layer of sludge and metal particles on the magnetic plug.

After a couple of trips to parts store, replaced the oil with Mobil 1 75W-90.

For those like me who are mechanically challenged, attached is a picture of necessary material. High Temp Thread Sealer is Permatex ($2.99), pump is Coastal ($3.19 at Autozone, well worth it, install on clean windshield washer cleaner gallon jug that uses a threaded cap, and it makes filling the diff a snap.) Use a 3/8" breaker bar with minimum radius on the corners for both diff plugs. On mine the drain plug had magnetic insert, the fill did not. After cleaning the old sealer and gunk off the plugs, apply permatex thread sealer per directions, install the drain plug, fill the Gallon jug with 2 quarts plus 4 oz (68 oz total) and pump it in.
Good luck and THANKS to those who post all of the useful data on this forum.
Dale
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Old 07-25-2004, 04:14 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlvswoll
I keep reading about these differential stories, what are you guys noticing to indicate they are low on fluid? Are they becoming noisy or what?

You want to hope you don't ever hear a noise in your diff. You need to make it a periodic habit to check the levels. Would be nice if everything with oil had a gauge even the trans. But because they don't that leaves you with the responsibility to either check it yourself or have someone else check it. I check mine every 3000 miles when I change my motor oil.
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Old 07-25-2004, 04:20 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by titanwild
Well, I thought "surely my differential is OK", but sure as h#@@ wasn't, about 8 oz lower than spec, not too bad, but the oil was laced with some foreign substance, water or ??. Both plugs were barely finger tight on mine as well, and about a 1/8" layer of sludge and metal particles on the magnetic plug.

After a couple of trips to parts store, replaced the oil with Mobil 1 75W-90.

For those like me who are mechanically challenged, attached is a picture of necessary material. High Temp Thread Sealer is Permatex ($2.99), pump is Coastal ($3.19 at Autozone, well worth it, install on clean windshield washer cleaner gallon jug that uses a threaded cap, and it makes filling the diff a snap.) Use a 3/8" breaker bar with minimum radius on the corners for both diff plugs. On mine the drain plug had magnetic insert, the fill did not. After cleaning the old sealer and gunk off the plugs, apply permatex thread sealer per directions, install the drain plug, fill the Gallon jug with 2 quarts plus 4 oz (68 oz total) and pump it in.
Good luck and THANKS to those who post all of the useful data on this forum.
Dale

For someone mechanically challenged that's a great idea you have with the markings on the container. Looks like you got the recommended amount of oil marked on the container so you know you need to pump all that in. I'm going to do that too. I also got a cheap pump with a hose so I can just leave the container on the ground and just pump it in.
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Old 07-25-2004, 04:27 PM   #14 (permalink)
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They also have those battery operated or even 12V (cigarette lighter plug-in) pumps so all you have to is hit the button Am I lazy? No....

Anyone with BIG TOW Notice their Trans Temp Guage climbing when the diff was baking the paint off?
CaliforniaTitan said the paint was peeling/rusting, right?
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Old 07-25-2004, 05:29 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Yeah pc, I'm lazy, but could find only the hand pump! Never have noticed any change in my trans temp gauge. Once warmed up it stays in the same place. But, I've never towed anything either.
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