Concise list of options to replace Ex Manifolds?

[wmshay6]

So I am planning to do some much needed maintenance on my titan and at cold start up it sure sounds like my manifolds are cracked. It's a pretty noticeable tick when cold that disappears in time. Obviously warranty would be the best route, but that disappeared 55,000 miles ago.

I have been doing some reading here and other places. I am not a modder, don't really care about HP boost, or sound. Just looking for what options are available if I decided to have the manifolds fixed. I see lots of talk about headers, long tubes, short tubes, emulators, etc.

What I am really looking for is the best option in terms of cost and ease. Don't really care to UpRev tune or any of that business. I would like a drop in replacement if one exists. Unless Long Tube headers are significantly cheaper. Does anyone know when NNA changed the design of the headers to the new "improved" sty;e?

Are Nissan manifolds with new Cats the best way to go? I would be paying for the install as these are not something I am comfortable handling in my garage.

To date, engine runs fine, no codes, no worries. If I didn't know any better, I probably wouldn't even realize there is an issue.

Of course, I could just keep driving it till it pops a code too. It only gets driven about 8000 miles a year anyway.

[mrbubl]

I like many here on the forum faced the same issue and question about what to do about this situation. In very concise terms, here are your options:

remove OEM manifolds have them welded and reinstall. cheaper
replace with latest designed OEM manifolds. expensive
replace with OEM design aftermarket manifolds. less expensive
replace with headers, long or short tube. less expensive
ignore the noise until the crack(s) get large enough to cause an issue. free Remember, leaking exhaust in the engine compartment is a bad thing


I chose long tube headers, replacement B pipes and exhaust system, all total and installed ~$1800.

Originally Posted by wmshay6

So I am planning to do some much needed maintenance on my titan and at cold start up it sure sounds like my manifolds are cracked. It's a pretty noticeable tick when cold that disappears in time. Obviously warranty would be the best route, but that disappeared 55,000 miles ago.

I have been doing some reading here and other places. I am not a modder, don't really care about HP boost, or sound. Just looking for what options are available if I decided to have the manifolds fixed. I see lots of talk about headers, long tubes, short tubes, emulators, etc.

What I am really looking for is the best option in terms of cost and ease. Don't really care to UpRev tune or any of that business. I would like a drop in replacement if one exists. Unless Long Tube headers are significantly cheaper. Does anyone know when NNA changed the design of the headers to the new "improved" sty;e?

Are Nissan manifolds with new Cats the best way to go? I would be paying for the install as these are not something I am comfortable handling in my garage.

To date, engine runs fine, no codes, no worries. If I didn't know any better, I probably wouldn't even realize there is an issue.

Of course, I could just keep driving it till it pops a code too. It only gets driven about 8000 miles a year anyway.

[bestatchess]

I would like a drop in replacement if one exists. Unless Long Tube headers are significantly cheaper.

I think that Bear River and Magnaflow make direct replacement manifolds with cats. Last time I looked, they were very expensive.

[wmshay6]

I guess my confusion lies with the emissions controls.

Say I decide to go with Short Tube Headers and new B pipes- I then lose the two o2 sensors in the existing setup -correct? So how does one work around that?

From what I gather, the stillen headers have a place for o2 sensors. And I think they're Long Tubes which means they would bolt right up to the existing exhaust correct? But then, I'm losing two cats- does this cause issue?

Basically, I just need the cheapest option to get from the block to the existing exhaust system without requiring a bunch of effort to get around the emissions controls.

[1AGregg]

Seems like anything having to do with this exhaust issue is an expensive if not difficult enterprise. The old "we got 'em over a barrel" routine applies. Pure unadulterated profit margin instead of reasonable pricing. Non of these OE or aftermarket items are worth the thousands of dollars charged....Very dissappointing indeed...but that's the American way...get all you can one sale at a time instead of being of good reputation and having volume handle the dollars.

[wmshay6]

Wow- so I do some more digging and it appears the Stillen long tubes are not emissions legal in MD. And I will need about $700 worth of tuning to get the CEL to go off.

JBA Shorties- same deal. Require welding and not emissions legal.

Hate to say it, but trading the Titan off for something else is looking really good right now. Wicked poor design and no good solution for repair is pi$$ing me off. Especially given that the truck has 135K on it- not sure I want to sink that much money into a high mileage truck!

Can anyone comment on the federal emissions aspect?How big of a deal is it?

[bestatchess]

Originally Posted by wmshay6

Say I decide to go with Short Tube Headers and new B pipes- I then lose the two o2 sensors in the existing setup -correct? So how does one work around that?

JBA short tube headers have bungs for the forward sensors and are advertised as 50 state legal. The aft sensor bungs are in the B-pipes. Depending on what you do with the B-pipes, you can still have two sets of sensors. Example, Berk B-pipes have cats and extended sensor bungs to minimize the possibility of throwing codes.

From what I gather, the stillen headers have a place for o2 sensors. And I think they're Long Tubes which means they would bolt right up to the existing exhaust correct?

correct, I think stillen have some kind of emulator box, dunno the details, saw it referenced in the instructions.

But then, I'm losing two cats- does this cause issue?

Depends on how you get inspected. I passed sniff emissions with long tubes and one set of adequate cats in the B-pipes. I think California has visual inspection, which may be a problem.

[TRCKLVR]

JBA's have CARB approval, so you should be good there. However they do require welding and therefore are a more expensive install than longtubes. They also will require tuning unless you have flex fuel and even then you still might. Although, unless you are still within your emmisions warranty, which I believe is 8 years or 80k (would require Nissan to replace oem for free) you should still be able to get JBA's installed with tune for cheaper than what the dealer will rape you for replacing the oem's not under warranty.

[jdmartin]

Originally Posted by wmshay6

Wow- so I do some more digging and it appears the Stillen long tubes are not emissions legal in MD. And I will need about $700 worth of tuning to get the CEL to go off.

JBA Shorties- same deal. Require welding and not emissions legal.

Hate to say it, but trading the Titan off for something else is looking really good right now. Wicked poor design and no good solution for repair is pi$$ing me off. Especially given that the truck has 135K on it- not sure I want to sink that much money into a high mileage truck!

Can anyone comment on the federal emissions aspect?How big of a deal is it?

It would be cheaper to have your current manifolds welded than trade the truck. Since you're only driving 8k miles per year I believe a repair would easily last 30-40k miles, maybe more. So maybe every 4-5 years you have them rewelded. Or you jump for the newer version of these manifolds, which puts a little extra support in the bad spot.

If it were me, driving that little, as long as you can pass inspection I would probably not even bother fixing them unless the ticking is really obnoxious.

Unfortunately, every vehicle has an achilles heel. This is ours.

[nightowl]

Stillen LT provide a emulator box that works for 04-06 titans only. IMO Longtube headers are the way to go and no welding or exhaust shop has to be involved in the process. Everything will bolt right up to your existing bpipes or if you like or I can build you some custom bpipes with cats. You can pass sniffer emissions with long tubes and not throw any codes with the proper set up. If you have visuals I build bpipes that resemble oems closely but nothing there is a guarantee. Anyway about it you may need to be tuned post header install unless your flex fuel then you may get by without a tune like myself. LT's will be the cheapest way out and far better than any nissan oem manifold. Good luck.

[wmshay6]

Originally Posted by jdmartin

It would be cheaper to have your current manifolds welded than trade the truck. Since you're only driving 8k miles per year I believe a repair would easily last 30-40k miles, maybe more. So maybe every 4-5 years you have them rewelded. Or you jump for the newer version of these manifolds, which puts a little extra support in the bad spot.

If it were me, driving that little, as long as you can pass inspection I would probably not even bother fixing them unless the ticking is really obnoxious.

Unfortunately, every vehicle has an achilles heel. This is ours.

The welding isn't the problem- it's paying the labor for the R&R. Of course, maybe this is my chance to collect some more tools and learn to DIY it.

Leaving it be has also crossed my mind. Mileage is OK ~16 (which it has been since forever, I have the BT gears), ticking is obnoxious but disappears very quickly.. No CEL and I just passed the OBD II inspection that MD does for emissions in the spring. So that cert is good for 2 more years. I figure they were cracked then. They were probably cracked before the 80K warranty expired and I just didn't catch it.

I wonder how many Armada, Titan, and QX owners are out there with cracked manifolds and don't even know it. Unless the CEL lights up, most people don't even pay any attention.

[nightowl]

Mine did the same thing once I got about 1/2 mile down the road the heat sealed it up. Just better hope the convertor stays intact and doesn't crumble or there is a chase of it being sucked back in the motor. This has happened to guys on this forum. If you plan on keeping the truck I would fix it soon.

[wmshay6]

So, if I decide to go the Long Tube route, I don't need to replace the B-pipes, I can just use factory ones- is that correct?

And I believe that the Stillens now have bungs for the o2 sensors, but the wiring has to be lengthened (which is no problem).

That leaves me with the "tuning". My T is flex fuel, so is there any way to tell if I will need a "tune" other than to install and see if it throws a CEL? If I do get a CEL, what does the "tune" do exactly? And I think I need to buy (or otherwise locate) an UpRev?

Is all of this correct?

[bestatchess]

Originally Posted by wmshay6

So, if I decide to go the Long Tube route, I don't need to replace the B-pipes, I can just use factory ones- is that correct?

I think if you are 4wd or 2007+ then you have small secondary cats in the oem B-pipes. I think 2004-2006 2wd have resonators in the oem B-pipes.

These are likely not sufficient to pass sniff emissions. You can pass sniff emissions with adequate (sized for the weight and engine displacement of the truck) cats in the B-pipes.

I do get a CEL, what does the "tune" do exactly?

The primary concern for a tune is to make sure the AFRs are in a safe range, although I think that Uprev can also turn off a CEL from a cat efficiency code. I dunno anyway to monitor AFRs without a tuner or Uprev software/cable/laptop or going to a dyno shop.

[nightowl]

Originally Posted by wmshay6

So, if I decide to go the Long Tube route, I don't need to replace the B-pipes, I can just use factory ones- is that correct?

And I believe that the Stillens now have bungs for the o2 sensors, but the wiring has to be lengthened (which is no problem).

That leaves me with the "tuning". My T is flex fuel, so is there any way to tell if I will need a "tune" other than to install and see if it throws a CEL? If I do get a CEL, what does the "tune" do exactly? And I think I need to buy (or otherwise locate) an UpRev?

Is all of this correct?

You may get by without a tune from up rev but you will need to put truck on a dyno and have the air/fuel ratio checked post header install to make sure you are in a safe range. I paid $65 for two pulls and found out my hp/tq with afr's. If your afr is off you will need up rev tuned.

The stillens and all LT headers have 02 bungs for the primary sensors. The secondary 02 sensors will screw in post cats on the bpipes. You will have to have the factory bpipes altered to put the sensor behind the cat or contact me and I can hook you up with custom bolt on bpipes for your application. Berk and Stillen also offer custom bpipes for this setup. I know all this info sounds complicated but really its not. If you are mechanically able this can be done at home over the weekend in the driveway. The header install is tough but doable. Labor to pay someone will kill you though.

My setup Stillens, Cajuns bpipes, dyno and gaskets cost about $1100 installed myself. Thats less than one oem exhaust manifold and you never have to worry about cracks again.