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Old 12-30-2004, 05:02 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HEMI-SMOKER
Had keak fixed on rear diff today. They put 75w140 syn in it. kind of cool that I got a leak. Got my oil upgraded to 75 140 for FREE!! I like it when things go that way!!!.
I had mine in for a leak too this month and even showed the service manager that 75w140 was now recommended. When I got the truck back, the work order showed that they put 80w90 back in there. Looks like you got lucky and I didn't.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GA-matt
As others have stated, either is better than original fluid. The specs in the book do call for 75w90. However, these specs were printed BEFORE the rear diff became a problem. Nissan is now instructing all techs to go with 75w140 in both '04 and '05 titans... also state that using 75w140 in the '04 will not harm warranty.
I'm not being a smartass, but I would like to know where you got this information. My experience has been different, since my tech apparently didn't know to go with 75w140. Since we are close to each other, maybe I'll go to your dealership next time if I need work on the differential. And I'd have a little better piece of mind switching to something different on my own with something in writing about the warranty. Probably worrying about nothing, but I can see swarren's point.
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Old 12-30-2004, 05:35 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swarren1
For the 2004 Titans, I've seen in a couple of threads now with people saying the dealers and their tech training is specifying 75W140 for the rear differentials. But does anyone have this in writing?

Of course if your dealer is the one that puts it in and it is documented on the work order, your warranty will be protected, no matter what they put in.

But if Nissan is recommending 75W140, why don't they send a revision page for us to stick with our owner's manuals?

For do it yourselfers, they could deny a warranty claim without having something in writing.

Since some of these diffs are smoking, I don't want to void my warranty based on hearsay. For some reason I don't exactly trust Nissan to do the right thing if it went out and they found non-spec diff oil in there.

].



Same here, there is nothing in writing on this, plain and simple, until Nissan comes out with something in writing then it's hearsay. I don't care who you, where you work, what you do for a living. There is nothing offical on this!!!!!!
That's the reason for some people getting 75w140 and some people getting 80W90 at the dealership.
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Last edited by Bama334; 12-30-2004 at 05:38 AM.
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Old 12-30-2004, 05:48 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Question 75-90W verses 75-140W

My question is if they both start at 75W........does this mean they both protect the same at low temps???....and does the 140 protect better at high temps.????? Aren't Titans having high temp. rear differential issues as opposed to low temp. issues???
How can the 140W casue any problems at all as opposed to the 90W????? I wanted the best high temp. protection.....for my needs which are high demands.....if anyone can prove there could be any problem with the 140W I would dump it and switch down......but I haven't seen any news yet on why the 140W is an issue......and if it protects better than 75-90W that is probably why NISSAN stamped it on the new aluminum finned cover. A revision for the manual would be nice....but I guess that won't happen as a lot of folks would be screaming for a free oil change to the 75-140W!!
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Old 12-30-2004, 03:29 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Mincarelli
My question is if they both start at 75W........does this mean they both protect the same at low temps???....and does the 140 protect better at high temps.????? Aren't Titans having high temp. rear differential issues as opposed to low temp. issues???
How can the 140W casue any problems at all as opposed to the 90W????? I wanted the best high temp. protection.....for my needs which are high demands.....if anyone can prove there could be any problem with the 140W I would dump it and switch down......but I haven't seen any news yet on why the 140W is an issue......and if it protects better than 75-90W that is probably why NISSAN stamped it on the new aluminum finned cover. A revision for the manual would be nice....but I guess that won't happen as a lot of folks would be screaming for a free oil change to the 75-140W!!
Yes at low temps both flow like a 75W oil. The 140W will handle higher temps than a 90W. Some Titan's differentials are baking their paint off, and some have failed.

With a '04 the main issue I see with the 75W140 is a legal one. [Also, the full synthetic gear oils, apparently don't climb the gears very well. And when mixed with water, don't separate out as fast as Schaeffer's oil synthetic/dino blends].

If your diff went out and Nissan decided not to honor your warranty, you would have nothing to back your decision up, but hearsay. You might win in court, but it's no fun dealing with that. Most lawyers only want the personal injury or wrongful death cases so they can clear at least $50K to make it worth their time. So it would be you against Nissan's highly paid attorneys.

Since I have an '04 and I plan to wait until I have something in writing from Nissan to use something other than the '04 spec. 80W90 GL5, which is one reason why I plan on trying Schaeffer's #267 Tech Data Sheet (in pdf format), instead of the Red Line 75W90 full synthetic.
[I had to order a case though, (~3 changes), for a little over $80 from a Schaeffer's dist. About $13 of it was shipping. If they do send us an update for the '04 spec. I'll just yard sale or ebay the rest].

The other big reason I like Schaeffer's over a full synth GL is shown on the bobistheoilguy.com site
The first is the egg beater test:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/gearoiltest.htm
The next one shown the full synthetic's inability to climb the gears, and how an additive causes foaming:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

But if Nissan has specified the wrong weight for the '04, (80W90), I'd rather have mine fail and be replaced by a new one from Nissan, than have them void that portion of my warranty.

Edit: Schaeffer's 167 is a Full Synthetic 75W140.

If you have a '05 and if spec is 75W140 Full Synthetic, I would stick to that until the warranty expires.

Happy New Year!

Last edited by NorCal 4x4; 12-31-2004 at 12:36 AM.
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Old 12-30-2004, 08:13 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Lightbulb

Quote:
Originally Posted by swarren1
Yes at low temps both flow like a 75W oil. The 140W will handle higher temps than a 90W. Some Titan's differentials are baking their paint off, and some have failed.

With a '04 the main issue I see with the 75W140 is a legal one. [Also, the full synthetic gear oils, apparently don't climb the gears very well. And when mixed with water, don't separate out as fast as Schaeffer's oil synthetic/dino blends].

e
The first is the egg beater test:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/gearoiltest.htm
The next one shown the full synthetic's inability to climb the gears, and how an additive causes foaming:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

If I was out of warranty coverage I would use whatever I felt was best for my Titan, [which might be the 75W140 full synth., but more likely Schaeffer's 167 a 80W140 blend].
But if Nissan has specified the wrong weight for the '04, (80W90), I'd rather have mine fail and be replaced by a new one from Nissan, than have them void that portion of my warranty.

If you have a '05 and if spec is 75W140 Full Synthetic, I would stick to that until the warranty expires.

Happy New Year!



I saw the test with the Shaffer's oil, I'm not an engineer, or Ray the oil guy but, I personally can't see oil needing to climb the gears as the test shows. Now the diff is sitting half submerged in gear oil to start with, so while turning it's getting sufficent lube, plus the amount of oil being sprayed (not a good way to put it) around the differntial housing is lubricating. If the gear oil wasn't being (thrown) around in the diff, you would never see a leaking pinion seal (mostly leaks while driving because of the pressure). And if syn. wasn't lubricating properly it wouldn't be factory fill as in the 05's, or my Z-71 that I traded, and the world would have a tons of burn't up diff's especially the T/talk members to include me.

I like Bob's oil filter test but, I gotta admit this test looks a little fishy to me anyway? Money can do wonders for test results.
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Old 12-30-2004, 08:54 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TYTAIN
I saw the test with the Shaffer's oil, I'm not an engineer, or Ray the oil guy but, I personally can't see oil needing to climb the gears as the test shows. Now the diff is sitting half submerged in gear oil to start with, so while turning it's getting sufficent lube, plus the amount of oil being sprayed (not a good way to put it) around the differntial housing is lubricating. If the gear oil wasn't being (thrown) around in the diff, you would never see a leaking pinion seal (mostly leaks while driving because of the pressure). And if syn. wasn't lubricating properly it wouldn't be factory fill as in the 05's, or my Z-71 that I traded, and the world would have a tons of burn't up diff's especially the T/talk members to include me.

I like Bob's oil filter test but, I gotta admit this test looks a little fishy to me anyway? Money can do wonders for test results.
You make some good points on the splash aspect. And especially at high temps when everything is warmed up. I don't know how high the pressure is though since this is an open and vented diff.

I feel these test are probably not fishy since they seem like it would be easy enough to duplicate, especially the egg beater one. But the benefits of climbing, as you say may be questionable. Although I could see this as a major benefit on the diffs that have been delivered with very low levels from the factory. Even heard of this on someones '05.

The other thing I'd like to see is the same tests performed after 3000 miles of heavy summer time towing. I wouldn't be surprised either way on the winner.

But again if I had an '05 that stated full synthetic, that is what I would use, at least while under warranty.

However just because if Nissan now states full synthetic for the '05, I would not trust this anymore than the '04 Nissan's 80W90 mandate. I will just will follow it until I have a written update, or am out of warranty.They have lost their credibility with me on the rear differential, and their lack of informing the '04 owners.

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Old 12-30-2004, 08:59 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Molson's majik

All this talk about my differential turning the color of the sun and locking up on a crowded freeway stresses me out. So much so, I went down to my parts store and bought two quarts of M1 75-145. On the way back to the house, I got thirsty and picked up a twelve of Molson's Canadian Lager.
Unfortunaly, I am a bit dyslectic and I filled the differential with beer and drank the M1. Now, my tongue keeps slipping out of my mouth.

Do you think this will be covered by the warranty?

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Old 12-30-2004, 09:04 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueskys
All this talk about my differential turning the color of the sun and locking up on a crowded freeway stresses me out. So much so, I went down to my parts store and bought two quarts of M1 75-145. On the way back to the house, I got thirsty and picked up a twelve of Molson's Canadian Lager.
Unfortunaly, I am a bit dyslectic and I fill the differential with beer and drank the M1. Now, my tongue keeps slipping out of my mouth.

Do you think this will be covered by the warranty?
No! Only if you stick it in your rear end
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Old 12-30-2004, 09:41 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travism
I'm not being a smartass, but I would like to know where you got this information. My experience has been different, since my tech apparently didn't know to go with 75w140. Since we are close to each other, maybe I'll go to your dealership next time if I need work on the differential. And I'd have a little better piece of mind switching to something different on my own with something in writing about the warranty. Probably worrying about nothing, but I can see swarren's point.
I got the info from a new tech at Town Center Nissan in Kennesaw. I've always received great service from them. I seriously doubt you're going to find anything in writing about it though. Taking a look at it from Nissan's position... this would be them admitting up to another known problem with the Titans. Probably wouldn't help too much for selling their trucks. However, if you do go with the 75w140 and have any sort of problems, I seriously doubt Nissan is going to perform a fluid analysis to determine that you have used something different than what's stated in the manual... especially given the fact this is a wide spread problem and 75w140 is now recommened for the '05 trucks (in writing). I bet they just fix the problem under warranty and ask no questions.

Some will go with 75w90, while others go with 75w140. The point is, just change the fluid and go with what you feel comfortable with... the design and original fluid from the factory is the real problem. I think just changing to either grade of synthetic will fix the problem.
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Old 12-31-2004, 06:24 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GA-matt
I got the info from a new tech at Town Center Nissan in Kennesaw. I've always received great service from them. I seriously doubt you're going to find anything in writing about it though. Taking a look at it from Nissan's position... this would be them admitting up to another known problem with the Titans. Probably wouldn't help too much for selling their trucks. However, if you do go with the 75w140 and have any sort of problems, I seriously doubt Nissan is going to perform a fluid analysis to determine that you have used something different than what's stated in the manual... especially given the fact this is a wide spread problem and 75w140 is now recommened for the '05 trucks (in writing). I bet they just fix the problem under warranty and ask no questions.

Some will go with 75w90, while others go with 75w140. The point is, just change the fluid and go with what you feel comfortable with... the design and original fluid from the factory is the real problem. I think just changing to either grade of synthetic will fix the problem.


I agree totally, the diff is running at high heat (towing)cooking the dino oil then the bearing are burning up. The synthetic is a high temp oil if you change you'll be good!
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Old 12-31-2004, 06:53 AM   #26 (permalink)
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This is a multi-grade diff lube. When it is cold it is 75W and when it is hot it is 140W. When it is between hot and cold it is between 70W and 140W.

This is a no brainer for those who work the truck and/or live or drive in areas of more extreme climate conditions.

If your truck is not used in cold or hot weather or for towing/hauling/fast driving, etc., it probably won't benefit from the wide range multi diff lube. OTOH, some of us are so AR that we have to be prepared for any and all eventualities. Especially us former military types!!

Butch
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Old 12-31-2004, 07:16 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Question Onwers manual specs.???

Quote:
Originally Posted by TYTAIN
I agree with your mechanic, 90 weight is the recommended oil for the 04, as a matter
of fact I changed mine last night to Mobil 1 75w90 sythetic. Many people on the forum are changing to 75W140 because the 05's recommend that, it's personal prefernce for them, specs for me.
Question: does the owners manual spec. synthetic oil????????
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Old 12-31-2004, 11:56 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Anyone think there would be any milage diffrences between the two? the 05's look to be be getting better milage and i wonder if something as simple as this is the reason
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Old 12-31-2004, 12:08 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Mincarelli
Question: does the owners manual spec. synthetic oil????????
The 05 service manual definitely does:

API GL-5 Synthetic 75W-140 Gear Oil (Part
No. 999MP-DF100P) or equivalent *6

Haven't been online to check the owner's man. yet.
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Old 12-31-2004, 01:43 PM   #30 (permalink)
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my diff fluid looks and smells great

Went out to finally change the rear diff oil. Thought about starting my own thread, but will jump on here.

Not at all what I was expecting. 2500 miles, oil was beautiful and no odors. Level was perfect, fortunatley I was wondering about the proper level and checked this first before draining. I was expecting to pull out a finger of black goo, but it was like a light honey or a champange color (Asti vintage, did not taste the same).

From another thead, partial post by Brons2
"dark gear oil-normal due to ep, moly adds.
smells burnt-normal, due to ep and sulfur adds"


I am wondering if I have the synthetic in there. I was planning on putting Valvoline Durablend 80W-90 in. I compared the two and mine is a bit lighter, but smells exactly the same. Just couldn't bring myself to drop it. Mostly highway miles, no towing yet, to help put it into perspective.
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