Going for that "throatier exaust" sound huh? Just kidding! Actually, there are several here that do and most of them seem happy. I have heard mixed results about RP stuff though.
You should try the items attached.
Last edited by BLWedge09 : 05-04-2005 at 03:11 PM.
In all seriousness, it's only worth the money if you're going to do extended drain intervals. I have heard from others here that RP tends to thin easier than some other synthetics so I wouldn't go too long on drain intervals. If you're going to stick with regular drain intervals(3000-5000 miles), you'd be better off sticking to a good quality dino oil such as Chevron Supreme or maybe the Havoline that is almost the same. The majority of people here who use synthetics go with Mobil 1 or Amsoil.
Here's all the halfway decent info I could find on here. You might want to pm some of the folks who said they were running it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hector313
I just changed by diff oil this weekend. I used Royal Purple 75-140. I also used thread sealer. I bought three quarts of the gear oil and was able to pour them all in with out the use of a pump or suction device. The small amount that was left in each bottle (which was about one forth of the bottle) that I couldn’t get into the diff because of the angle and lack of space. I simply set aside and combined them at the end to “refill” my last bottle. With this refilled last bottle, I was able to top of the level with no problem. It was very easy to do. What took the longest was taking the time to clean off the threads on the drain and fill plugs to prepare them for the thread sealer. The Royal Purple cost me about $9 at NAPA per quart. The total job was less then $30 bucks. The Royal Purple has an extremely high Moly content that actually stays in suspension. Molybdenum actually bonds to the metal making a microscopically smooth surface. Smoother means less friction which means more ponies and less fuel consumption. I watched a Hot Rod magazine program on the TV recently that actually converted all of the lubricants in a vehicle to the RP. Dyno tests proved the increase in horsepower.
What a wonderful spirit of helpfulness, BLWedge09! We are all in this to help each other. That took a lot of work.
I think the Mississippi State Bulldogs could have used your help in their 0-3 series with the Rebels last week! Might want to rethink that avitar. It would look a lot nicer without that cross bar in it! Sorry couldn't help myself. State has a very good team, just ran into a better one.
Seriously, Royal Purple is probably a good product. I use Mobil 1 in the oil pan and in the rear diff. I don't know if it is as good, but it is tried and true.
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'04 Armada SE Offroad 4x4
Big Tow Package
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K&N Drop In Air Filter w/ airbox mod
Carbotech Bobcat front brake pads at 28K miles (no brake judder, just time to change pads)
No problem. I wish I knew more about the stuff to tell you. You pretty much drained me of the little knowledge I have on the subject though. Good luck!
I use the rp diff fluid, i bought it because it makes my truck get third gear rubber when i stomp it. seriously though, i do run it in the diff's, im sure its as good as about everything else. i prob wouldnt go outa my way to buy any of the diff fluid. i would get whatever the local store has.
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Galaxy Titan KC LE 4x4
Trenz billet
Painted bushwhackers
15% tint
prg front and rear kit
It took graduation from the "School Of Hard Knocks" (Marine Corps), with an associates in "Combat Vet" from Fallujia University to open the door to my dream job.
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2004 TiTan King Cab 4x4 SE Silver
Big Tow, Off Road Package, Utility Package
Rockford Fosgate
Volant CAI W/ Air Scoop
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Cordura Seat Covers
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MB Gunner 6 Gloss Black 20's
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275.86 rwhp
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New dyno and track times since new mods to come...
Last edited by Finnattic : 05-04-2005 at 06:50 PM.
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