Work in Progress...Feel free to reply to this thread...it will keep it near the top for people to see and add there 2 cents.
This will be my attempt at consolidating some of the best information on Titantalk. Please PM if you have any good tidbits for me to add and I will edit my posts.
Here is an example of information that I will be posting:
Performance Mods:
Two Degree Timing Advance Instructions (For Dealers w/ Consult II)
Warm up vehicle.
On CONSULT 2 screen choose ENGINE
After communication with Convertor will display a bunch of choices.
Press WORK SUPPORT
See more choices, press TARGET IGN TIMING
Press UP x2 for 2 degrees, correction which you should be able to see.
Press UPDATE.
Now press BACK
On the menu screen find IDLE AIR VOL LEARN.
Press, and perform to correct your idle since you just raised it 75rpm with timing advance.
Having these instructions in hand greatly increases the chance that your dealer will do it. Prices usually ranges from $0 - 1hr Labor.
And now...for you cool bastard with 08 titans which need the consult3 for the timing advance:
Yes, I was able to get it to programm, I did mine & 3 others.
Tricky cause our Consult 3 did not have 08 options so i accessed through a
2007 350 z
After consult3 has connected to car :
1. Press Wrench sign upper Right side of screen.
2. Press ECM/Wrench sign just below Large Wrench sign
3. Press Engine / OK
4. Work Support
5. Engine timing at bottom of list
6. Fallow prompts to +2
!!!!!! make sure they actual hit the UP-DATE BUTTON !!!!!!
or it will not save..
Make sure engine is at normal operating temp. & also good to reset
Idle air volume relearn to @ 650 rpm with a/c off & steering wheel straight..
Cold Air Intake (Big Props to SHAILEY @ CT for this information...he bought and tested all these intakes himself tell 'em thanks)
Intakes are: The Airaid, Volant w/Ram Air Scoop, AFE Stage 2, AEM Brute Force, TrueFlow and the stock intake and filter with the top cut off the collector that connects to the fender.
TBS: Helix Power Tower and Poweraid
My current mods are as follows: 18* Timing advance, 116% air/fuel ratio (very lean), NO throttle body spacer for the intake tests, JBA ceramic shorty headers, JBA Exhaust system (single exit with 2.5" Y-Pipe flared to 3" on the drivers side bend, 3" dual collector at the Y, 3.5" tailpipe), 2.5" dynomax racing muffler bullets to replace rear resonators, intake manifold O-ring screen removed and with stock 18" 5 spoke wheels with Michelin 265/70/18's.
This is what I will say so far about the tests. I will not give the hp and torque total, just what the gain is over stock airbox with my current mods. The reason for this is because I do not want the numbers to be misleading and making people think that they will reproduce these numbers strictly by adding a CAI. Also, your gains could be less due to what else I have done to the ecm to maximize my mods. These numbers are peak to peak, NOT picked out at a certain rpm. I will also say that ALL of the intakes produced better gains in the mid range over stock and were almost all similar numbers early on.
Stock box: produced the lowest numbers just as expected. The stock box was starving the engine of air for the mods that I have done. My times were the worst with it and the power suffered greatly.
Trueflow: Gains were very mild, but gains were present. So for those of you looking for the ultimate filtration without wanting top performance, this is your intake kit. Gains of 4 hp and 9 lbs of torque were the find.
Airaid: This is the system that I had installed in my truck for quite sometime. The top is open and it uses the stock intake tube, BUT the box does seal to the hood. This is evident by the worn spot on the insulation under my hood, so it DOES SEAL. This system did quite well with the testing. It also produces a sucking sound when feathering the throttle. I know that this system has even been called "A Joke" by some members, but that is not true. I think it could be better though if the intake tube were replaced. Gains were impressive though, 8 hp and 12 lbs of torque.
AEM Brute Force was the best so far. It had a more aggressive tone than the Airaid and produced a similar sound when feathering the throttle. You could tell that the tube was metal, it almost had a slight ringing to it. But it was not loud or annoying. For those worried about the tube being metal...DON'T. At 9 hp and 14 lbs of torque gain over stock, I don't think that the steel tube is warming any air like some have claimed. If it is warming air, I would hate to see what the gains would be with a plastic tube. LOL
The Volant that I installed I got from got_titan and it is the generation 2 and I bought the ram air system separately. By the way, I want to say thank you to John for helping me out and getting it to me quickly. He included a couple of extra parts for me and I greatly appreciate it. The install was very simple since I only had to put one bolt in the bottom of the box, the hardest part was stretching the new silicone connector over the intake tube. LOL Now then, the sound is very loud! It also had a pretty good vibration when accelerating a little faster than normal. Under WOT it had some serious volume and the truck responded quickly. Results: 10 hp and 14 lbs of torque.
The AFE was also a very easy install. There was an extra bolt to put in, but at least the windshield washer fluid reservoir did not have to be removed to get to it. The sound was not as loud as the volant, so I think that the volume may have a lot to do with the intake tube and a resonator box similar to the factory box. There was a slight vibration around 2900 rpms but not as bad as the Volant. Results 9 hp 13 lbs of torque.
The results are in and you cannot go wrong with the Airaid, AEM, AFE or Volant. AND I will remind everyone again, these gains may be more on my truck due to the other mods that have been done. If you just have an exhaust and have not had your computer remapped, it may not do as much for you. It may do more for you, I do not know.
So just as many of us have stated before, most CAI's are pretty similar as long as you stay with the name brands. It is just what style that you like the best and what you want your engine compartment to look like. The volant did have the highest hp, but the difference is not enough to "feel". I can say that I have produced the best times with the volant on but that could be due to outside variables that I have no control over.
Now then, who wants to buy a Helix throttle body spacer? Everything else has been spoken for and since the results of all of the CAI's were so close, I truly feel as if I have wasted a serious amount of money. LOL
Cat-Back Exhaust
Cat-Back exhausts offer an opportunity to toughen up your truck's sound and add a few ponies. **Warning** adding exhaust is known to increase HP @ the top end at the expense of lowend hp & ft/lbs. Also, many after market exhausts (Flowmaster 40 series, Banks) are extremely loud. Please choose carefully and search the board for reviews. Below are some common exhaust setups and the pros cons as well as basic sound info:
i cannot get the link to work so im gonna cut a paste, but in know way do i take credit for any of this. It is due to "shailey" of club titan, and many others
Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2006 3:10 am Post subject: My exhaust findings!
I have received quite a number of PM's lately asking about exhaust. I do not mind them, in fact I enjoy helping people out and answering their questions. If you have questions after this post, still feel free to ask them, I will answer.
I know that there are many peole on here who know more about exhausts than I do as far as the technical stuff. But, in the last two months I have done around 40 dynos with many different combinations of modifications and exhausts. The systems that I have had include the following now:
1) Full Stock set-up with 22" magnaflow muffler
2) Magnaflow Catback
3) Gibson swept side
4) Borla Dual
5) Flowmaster 40 series
6) Flowmaster 70 series
7) JBA single exit
I will provide what I observed during the whole process to try and help others determine what is best for their needs. When I mention drone, I am extremely sensitive to the frequency that exhaust emits. So your level of hearing may be different than mine.
1) The full stock set up with the 22" magnaflow provided great numbers. The hp and torque increase from stock was 8 and 14. Sound was a little louder than stock and there was noticeable drone to me at 58 to 62 mph. Bang for your buck can not be beat here. Once again I ONLY changed out the muffler.
2) Maganflow catback single exit provided the best gain period with the STOCK titan. The numbers on the website of 18 and 22 were factual peak to peak numbers. Not a play on numbers like many manufacturers do and show how much you gained at a certain rpm when you actually gained on 2 or 3 peak horsies. One odd thing that needs to be realized with this set up is it uses the STOCK Y-PIPE. I tried this set up with a custom 3 1/2" Y-pipe and lost a lot of torque. drone once again, is pretty noticeable at speeds mentioned above.
3) Gibson Swept Side is in my opinion a great all around exhaust for a couple of reasons. One it does provide medium gains in hp and torque. But two it has a great sound with almost no drone. It is louder than stock at WOT, but at start up it is just a deep tone that sounds great. But if you want something that is loud and mean, this is not for you.
4) Borla dual. It sounds really good to me. Cruising speeds had no drone, drone was only around 45 mph. the gains in hp were comparable to the gibson (12), but the toque gain was very minimal. But it is a very clean sounding exhaust that will please MANY and the finished look is very nice.
5) Flowmaster 40 series did not stay on for an entire day. Drone felt like my head was going to cave in. I greatly apologize for not being able to tolerate it to give a full evaluation, but the drone was heavy between 40 and 70 mph to me. And that is where I drive 90 percent of the time.
6) Flowmaster 70 series. Very good sound. Not to loud, drone was minimal around 1600 rpms. Provided nice hp gains that were equivalent to Gibosn and Borla, but once again the torque gain was very minimal. This exhaust at wot was definitely able to turn some heads with its volume and I did notice a couple of pops after going WOT and then letting completely off the gas. So it performs like the Gibson and Borla but has a little more agressive sound than both of them.
7) The JBA provided the best gains AFTER the header install. I do not have perforamnce numbers with the stock exhaust manifold, because I purchased this system AFTER headers. Previously the Magnaflow had the top gains hands down, but after the headers, this one etched out on top by 4 hp and 6 pounds of torque. I think that JBA did a good job matching their systems up. One thing that is interesting though is the muffler that came with it was a K & N muffler. The Y-pipe is smaller than ALL OTHER catback systems at 2.5"...EXCEPT where the bend in the tubing is and at the Y. The bend in the tubing on the drivers side expands to a little under 3" and then shrinks back down and it seems to act like a velocity channel. And the Y has two 2.5" pipes that come together to a 3" collector. There is some drone at 1600 rpms does not matter the speed, but it is definitely tolerable to me. This is a fairly loud agressive exhaust but is still not up with the Flowmasters or Bnaks.
So one conclusion that I was able to come to is that the 5.6 loves back pressure. That is where the low end torque comes from as does the max torque. It is funny that the 3 systems that produced the best numbers (hp and torque) used the smallest diameter Y-pipe and 2 of those were with the STOCK Y-PIPE and the other has the same diamter as the stock y-pipe. The dual systems lost speed in the lower range (below 40 mph) and I am convinced that is because of the minimal torque gains and I believe loss of back pressure. So if you want pure sound, the duals are the way to go. But if you want performance, the single exits with the smaller Y-pipe proved to be the best.
I will also be installing and dynoing the bassani system soon. I know that they are big into vette's, but I heard one on a friends Z06 and it had a great sound and provided pretty good gains on his vette.
Now please do not start writing in and bashing me because of my findings. All of this was done on the dyno and the on road findings were times with a Bel FX2 and my ears. Times can be affected by humidity, temperature and wind.:
Banks: Link Stainless, Loud, Huge Tip. Reduces Back pressure.
Vid1
Flowmaster: Link Dual Outlets, "old school look" fairly loud.
Gibson: Link Various Configurations. One of the Quietest. See site for Details.
Stillen: Link Also has several variations, check the link.
Borla: Link Quiet Growl, Solid Stainless, Known for quality.
Zoomers: Link Special exhaust tip promises to be drone free.
MagnaFlow: Link
Programmers
If you are interested in a programmer, there are a couple of options:
Uprev ECU Flash:
uprev.com *Warning you have to send them your ECU
Stillen Programmer:
Stillen Chip *Warning not yet released as of 5/09/07
Resetting your ECU
Resets to factory settings. Also clears some error codes that pop after a CAI or Stereo install.
Give it a try, but be patient....it may take a couple (or more) tries with your stopwatch to get it right.....timing is extremely important here!
Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
Operations Procedures
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
9. If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.
Reset the AirBag light (For you audio installers)
1. Turn the key from off to on.
2. Watch the airbag light closely. It will stay on for a few secs. and then as soon as it blinks off (the start of the flashing), turn the key off instantly.
3. Count to 5 (1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi . . . .)
4. Repeat steps 1-3 two more times until you have done the cycle three times.
5. Now turn the key on and watch the light. It will start blinking in a different, slower manner. This is diagnostic mode. You can watch this for a little while, no hurry.
6. Now turn the key off again, Count to 5 like in step 3 again, and turn back on. If the procedure worked, the airbag light will not be flashing.
If it does not work the first time, just repeat the steps again.
12-01-2006, 05:44 PM
Pit Crew Chief
Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity... 
