Project: Ballistic Titan

[Discount Tire]

Originally Posted by 288sunny

I also wanted to ask discount tire, any thoughts of getting the bullydog or superchips to go along with all these excellent mods?

They could be in the cards but I haven't really looked into everything that's available for the Titan. TT is lucky to have some excellent sponsors for these parts so maybe Bullydog or Superchips would be interested in joining. I'll send them a PM, It wouldn't hurt. Thanks for the suggestion.

Originally Posted by DeadRiver

man... you sure modded that thing quick!!

lol, I feel like I am behind. I really wanted it finished by the beginning of this month. A little anticipation never killed anyone though now did it.

BTW: Thank you all for your comments and questions. This build is meant to help start conversations. I won't claim to be an expert on any of the products added to this build, except for the wheels and tires of course . But if I can add to any of your comments or questions about them I will.

[DeadRiver]

well I got mine in late 04 (pretty much 05) and just began my mods in the past year or so.....

it's nice to see the picture in my head slowly become a reality..... it's tough being fiscally responsible with such an awesome ride to mod though... having a kid really help!!

[Discount Tire]

Originally Posted by 288sunny

First, this is a awesome write up, thanks Discount tire for doing this, looking forward to alot of good info!

next i would like to hear what others say about the Air raid filter system and the poweraid? Whats others experiences with this stuff, is there better out there?

I have always thought about adding these parts, but it concerns be that my luck something would happen to the motor and the dealer would blame those parts, or say that water entered through the filter because its open and caused a problem, so i went with a K&N instead. Could someone shed some light on this? are there any down falls to adding these?

I might be able to help some.

First I would say that if you, or anyone else reading this is worried about the dealer and their diagnosis if something were to go wrong. You can always wait to do your mods until your warranty is up. You can also have your mods purchased and installed at the dealer. (You may pay more for this but if something does go wrong you won't be at fault.)

As for this intake system, I too was a little skeptical with how well it seals the hot engine air and water out but it seems to be doing a great job. I can actually see where the intake seals up against the hood when shut. I'll snap a picture next time I pop the hood. I also like the fact the intake box is big and therefore allows air to enter without restraint. The truck pulls just as hard in the heat of the day as it does in the cool morning this time of year. I think the real test will come here in the summer when it's 110 degrees + during the day and 98 degrees at night. I'll tell you though, the fact that Airaid is based here in Phoenix, AZ tells me that they understand the potential heat their products may be put through and they have to be built tuff to work year after year.

[Discount Tire]

Originally Posted by DeadRiver

.... it's nice to see the picture in my head slowly become a reality.....

I agree with you here but I would replace "nice" with addicting...

[DeadRiver]

Originally Posted by Discount Tire Direct

I agree with you here but I would replace "nice" with addicting...

without hobbies what is life??

[Discount Tire]

Project #4: Frozen Rotor Upgrade

Product: Frozen Slotted Rotors for Nissan Titan Part # 1879 FZR SL (Front left), #1879 FZR SR (Front Right), #1712 FZR SL(Rear left) #1712 FZR SR (Rear Right) , Hawk Performance Brake Pads

Install Time: Start to finish: 1 hour
Difficulty: Easy (2 on a scale of 1-10)
People needed for Job: 1
Tools needed: 10mm wrench, Large C-clamp, Flat Head Screw driver

First Check for Parts: 4 rotors,(2 left, 2 right direction indicated on box and in directions included in each box), 4 front brake pads, 4 rear brake pads.... Check.

Step 1: Disassembly.
One end at a time (pictures are of the Rear): Safely jack up the vehicle according to the vehicles owner's manual. Remember to use tire blocks and jack stands where necessary. Once the vehicle has been safely jacked up, remove the tire and wheel assembly.
*note emergency brake can not be on so make sure at least one tire that will stay on the ground is blocked front and back and the vehicle is in park to prevent the vehicle from rolling.


Next remove the two 10mm bolts holding the caliper to the brake assembly.


Pinch clip that snaps caliper in place, rotate away from rotor to remove. (set brake caliper a side making sure caliper is not hanging from brake line.


Next Remove rotor by pulling rotor out away from vehicle. Rotor will slide out fairly easily.


Step 2: Reassembly:
Double check that you have the correct rotor for the correct side of the vehicle. If you have removed the rotor from the box and have mixed them up. Frozen rotors includes a diagram in each box showing the correct direction of rotation.


Next remove brake pads from caliper, I had to use a flat head screw driver to get the release the outer pads clips.


Next compress the brake caliber piston with your large C-clamp and install new brake pads. (this can be done with large vice grips as well. When doing this make sure to compress the piston evenly. This may be easier for you to do with the old brake pad still installed.) Compressing the piston makes room in the caliper for the new brake pads and also provides space for the caliper to slide over the new rotor. Next clip the caliper back into place.


Install and Tighten (2) 10mm bolts into back of caliper and ..... Done.

Reinstall the tire and wheel making sure to torque to specs and repeat for the other 3 corners.

Install Review:
I always wonder if I have the right tools for the next install and in having done some brakes before I thought I might be in need of a couple things but to my surprise this install was extremely simple and needed only a few common tools. The install was strait forward and not hard to get to.

Product Review:
For this build, adding significant weight with the new 35" wheel and tire assembly drew some concerns about increased stopping distance for the truck so brakes were a given.

I called up the fellow TitanTalk Sponsor Frozen Rotors and spoke with them about our options. They confirmed our concerns and mentioned that the original brakes are good and would stop the truck but life on the brakes would be spent quicker and the stopping distances would naturally be increased with the added weight. We then went though the options Frozen Rotors had and talked about the different upgraded rotors and brakes available. After considering what was being done to this truck we concluded that the slotted rotors would be best paired with a set of hawk brake pads for maximum stopping power without a total caliper/bake assembly upgrade. The slotted rotors would help keep the rotor cool and the compounds in the new Hawk brake pads were far superior to the compounds in the OE pads increasing our ability to stop in comparison.

Now with the brake pads and rotors installed I can feel what we were talking about at my feet. The truck brakes quick and smooth when it is needed. The brake system now feels crisp and sharp but not too harsh. When I press the brake I can feel the system engage and I am confident that it will stop when I need it to. Those of you that are looking to upgrade your brakes and want to do so yourself I encourage you to call up Frozen Rotors or PM them here on the boards. I am very pleased with their products and the honest service I received when speaking with them. Here is a link to there Forum on TT. Frozen Rotors on Titan Talk Links to their available Titan products are above.

[rynomx785]

Those are a lot more reasonably priced than I thought that they would be. Is the $178 both front rotors?

[etalian2005]

Looks great. Can't wait to see how this bad boy turns out.

[Discount Tire]

Originally Posted by rynomx785

Those are a lot more reasonably priced than I thought that they would be. Is the $178 both front rotors?

Their online prices are listed for each PM them for a delivered price.

Originally Posted by A.I.I.Raciing

How much bigger are those rotors over stock?
And since you works at DTC, do you know if these will work with Robby Gordon's without the spacer thats needed to clear the caliper bolt?

BTW:VERY nice right up on everything so far.

Thanks AII Racing.

The Frozen Rotors here are the same size as the stock rotors. Clearance for the Robby Gordon wheels and any other stay the same.

[Discount Tire]

Originally Posted by etalian2005

Looks great. Can't wait to see how this bad boy turns out.

Thanks etalian2005. It's coming together better than expected IMO.

[rynomx785]

Originally Posted by Discount Tire Direct

Their online prices are listed for each PM them for a delivered price.



Thanks AII Racing.

The Frozen Rotors here are the same size as the stock rotors. Clearance for the Robby Gordon wheels and any other stay the same.

So is it really gonna stop that much better? Let me know when you find out.

[Brundy]

Hey Travis, the write-ups are great. When are we going to see the one that explains the lift block seen in the first pic of the brake install?

[Blackbeauty]

Interesting build... and very nicely done with the write-ups and all.... There's just one thing you didn't mention in your brake job... Pad lube. It's always a good idea to lube the slide rails and the backs of the pads to enable the pads to slide and work properly and to minimize the squealing when applying the brakes. Many overlook this step and some don't even know that it's necessary or how to do it. Here's a small excerpt I found on the subject. It might help.

Remove the old brake pads from the caliper (usually held in place by several clips), but, before putting on the new ones, you must do something. Remember the little packets of grease you bought? These are used to lubricate the brake pads. Careful now -- not on the front of the pad, which comes in contact with the rotor, but on the back. The pads attach to the caliper via a plate-and-clip arrangement. The lubricant goes between the plate and the back of the brake pad. Got it?

Don't overlook this. If you don't do it, you'll get a horrible screeching sound every time you apply the brakes, like a dinosaur in heat (and you know how horny those velociraptors used to get). After you apply the grease, attach the pad to the plate and slide the whole thing into place.

[Discount Tire]

Originally Posted by Brundy

Hey Travis, the write-ups are great. When are we going to see the one that explains the lift block seen in the first pic of the brake install?

The lift will be 2nd to last. I hope to have the Bushwacker fender install next and the lift should be next week. (fingers crossed) I am hoping to shoot some photos of another 2wd's stock suspension for better comparison this weekend.

Originally Posted by rynomx785

So is it really gonna stop that much better? Let me know when you find out.

I have put these to the test and yes I do notice a difference over the stock set up. I have added significant weight and to the wheel and tire assembly and these brakes handle it very well. They bite hard when you need them to.

Originally Posted by Blackbeauty

Interesting build... and very nicely done with the write-ups and all.... There's just one thing you didn't mention in your brake job... Pad lube. It's always a good idea to lube the slide rails and the backs of the pads to enable the pads to slide and work properly and to minimize the squealing when applying the brakes. Many overlook this step and some don't even know that it's necessary or how to do it. Here's a small excerpt I found on the subject. It might help.

Remove the old brake pads from the caliper (usually held in place by several clips), but, before putting on the new ones, you must do something. Remember the little packets of grease you bought? These are used to lubricate the brake pads. Careful now -- not on the front of the pad, which comes in contact with the rotor, but on the back. The pads attach to the caliper via a plate-and-clip arrangement. The lubricant goes between the plate and the back of the brake pad. Got it?

Don't overlook this. If you don't do it, you'll get a horrible screeching sound every time you apply the brakes, like a dinosaur in heat (and you know how horny those velociraptors used to get). After you apply the grease, attach the pad to the plate and slide the whole thing into place.

Thank you for the addition. I did forget to mention this in the install. I'll go back and add this. The lubricant that came with these pads is a light red color, and yes it will make a difference if you leave this step out. The lubricant is a high heat lubricant that won't brake down under the high operating temperatures that brakes can achieve. This lubricant allows the parts to move properly when you apply the brakes again and again. I will see if any of the pictures I have show this. If not, next time I pull a wheel off I will see if I can snap one that shows proper placement.

- Thanks BB

[Brundy]

You can take pics of mine if you like. The PRG spacers and shackles aren't visible, so the susp. looks stock photgraphically. My Ranchos are off a stock rig too. PM me if you want to try it.