I'm about to change my oil for the 3rd time with Mobil 1. Will be hitting 15K miles soon. How do you clean the screen in the oil pan? Do you have to drop the pan? Because I don't ever do that.
I have this feeling about dino juice... not as good as what we can create.
BTW... what was the element count of your oil prior to being tested AFTER coming from the crankcase? To really have a true assessment of what happened you need to have both.
And really. It all depends on how you run your Titan. Run it HARD and I am sure that you will have more elements in your oil. Plus less overall miles on the engine...
I'm about to change my oil for the 3rd time with Mobil 1. Will be hitting 15K miles soon. How do you clean the screen in the oil pan? Do you have to drop the pan? Because I don't ever do that.
yup. drop down the oil pan.
1. drain it first.
2. remove the oil pan like you're taking off a tire. remove one bolt, then take off another bolt that's across from it. you'll need a ratchet and an open-ended wrench.. both the same size.
3. after you remove all the bolts, the pan will still be stuck. take a flat screw driver and lightly tap it into the joint, then drag it across a little bit. do this until you work your way around the whole oil pan. BE CAREFUL not to bend the oil pan. If you do, you might have to buy another oil pan.
4. be careful when you're bringing down the oil pan. there will still be oil in it.
5. you'll see a little half dome screen. That's it. Unbolt it and clean it with a wire brush and ether or gasoline.
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Why would you bother dropping an oil pan after just 15K miles? Seems awful excessive.
I've seen oil pans after 130K that were still clean. The oil filter should do all the filtering needed...What does Nissan recommend for this. I would think it to be a non service item. I would think it is located low to permanently trap any heavy items, and oil will simply bypass it without problems.
Never use Gasoline as a cleaner, very dangerous. Not worth the risk at all...
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Majestic Blue 2006 XE CC 2WD Big Tow
AEM BruteForce CAI; PowerAid TBS; MagnaFlow 3" x 24" Muffler; UpRev 93 Tuned; Detroit TrueTrac
Stillen Front and Rear AntiSway Bars, Diff. Cover, Front Rotors & Pads
PRG 2-1/2" and 1" MiniLift, Street Traction Bars
DYNO: 308 RWHP & 380 RWTQ
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mobil 1 extended performance with a purolator oil filter. Don't forget to clean the screen in the oil pan every once in a while. I just did mine and it was super filthy.
does anyone do the 5 quarts engine oil + 1 quart tranny oil trick? I been thinking about doing that to mine. I almost have 90,000 miles on the truck already.
Transmissoin fluid is not engine oil, and not made to handle the temps. It is used as a flush, but read the directions on engine flush, and they are clear to not rev the engine or drive the engine.
Trust the Automotive Chemical Engineer (whatever the chemist are called) to design your oil. I've got a fleet of Diesels running 15W40 Castrol for well past 1/2 million miles equivalent. No additives or tricks needed. Just change the oil and filter and it will last.
About the screen filter, have you cleaned it before?
Do you use blackstone labs?
I could see a new engine causing the most crud, but afterwards, I would think nothing much additional...
__________________
Majestic Blue 2006 XE CC 2WD Big Tow
AEM BruteForce CAI; PowerAid TBS; MagnaFlow 3" x 24" Muffler; UpRev 93 Tuned; Detroit TrueTrac
Stillen Front and Rear AntiSway Bars, Diff. Cover, Front Rotors & Pads
PRG 2-1/2" and 1" MiniLift, Street Traction Bars
DYNO: 308 RWHP & 380 RWTQ
~CRANK: 360 HP & 450 TQ
I've seen oil pans after 130K that were still clean. The oil filter should do all the filtering needed...What does Nissan recommend for this. I would think it to be a non service item. I would think it is located low to permanently trap any heavy items, and oil will simply bypass it without problems.
Never use Gasoline as a cleaner, very dangerous. Not worth the risk at all...
oil pan? don't you mean the screen? that's what I was talking about...
mine's got 89,000 miles and perhaps 70% of it was covered in hard material. I had to use a wire brush in addition to the gasoline to get the crud off.
Judging by the way it looked, it's definitely not a non-service item.
Transmissoin fluid is not engine oil, and not made to handle the temps. It is used as a flush, but read the directions on engine flush, and they are clear to not rev the engine or drive the engine.
Trust the Automotive Chemical Engineer (whatever the chemist are called) to design your oil. I've got a fleet of Diesels running 15W40 Castrol for well past 1/2 million miles equivalent. No additives or tricks needed. Just change the oil and filter and it will last.
About the screen filter, have you cleaned it before?
Do you use blackstone labs?
I could see a new engine causing the most crud, but afterwards, I would think nothing much additional...
1.) yeah. i was wondering what my buddies were talking about. i think one of them mentioned a co-worker at volkswagen left the tranny fluid in there for 3,000 miles.. but i'm not sure. that's why i brought it up.
2.) regarding the screen, i cleaned it before. the thing was filthy. most of it, about 70% was covered in this hard crud. like someone was frying something on the stove and overcooked it.
Next oil change I might check it again..just to see if there's anything wrong.
3.) nope. I don't use Blackstone. Perhaps I'll give them a try.
Last edited by alby; 10-13-2008 at 03:04 AM.
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