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Old 01-27-2004, 05:18 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Just Drained The Mobil 1

Just in case anyone here is a synthetic nut like myself I don't think I would recommend trying it out in your new Titan. At 1000 miles I drained the factory fill oil and put Mobil 1 10W-30 in it. Yesterday at 2000 miles I dumped it out and put Havoline 5W-30 in it. Why would I waste expensive Mobil 1???? Glad you asked........ever since I put it in the engine it sounded louder at idle, more valve train noise than what it did with the factory fill oil. No noticeable gas mileage drop or other noises during acceleration or cruise, just a whole lot of valve train noise at idle. Now that I put good old dino juice back in it all is quiet at idle now. I guess I may have to change my views concerning synthetics with what I know now concerning the Titan. I'll be picking up a couple of cases of Chevron Supreme, which by the way does awesome in oil sample tests.
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Old 01-27-2004, 05:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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That's interesting to hear. I guess I'll stick with good ol Valvoline 10w-30 when the time comes.
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Old 01-27-2004, 05:30 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Did you dump the oil at 1000 miles simply as a precaution, maybe catching some metal from the initial run in? I always do this in new engines but when I asked the service guys at Nissan they were pretty solid on waiting until 3000 miles. I just turned 1000 and am having a real hard time not changing the oil.
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Old 01-27-2004, 05:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Just so you know, Valvoline doesn't typically do to well in oil samples. Some of the best dino results are from Chevron Supreme, Texaco/Havoline, and Pennzoil (believe it or not). Concerning synthetics Amsoil, Mobil 1, and Redline usually report back very good results. When it comes to semi-synthetics there are superb oil samples coming in from the Motorcraft 5W-20 and Pennzoil 5W-20. All 5W-20's are semi-synthetic anyway and hold their viscosity very well, usually better than the 5W-30's. I'll look at some more oil samples concerning the Chevron Supreme and report back which grade is doing better i.e. 5W-30 or 10W-30.
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Old 01-27-2004, 05:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Skip and everyone else, DUMP THE OIL OUT!!!! I sent for an oil sample of which I've already got back the results and you wouldn't believe the crud in there from the manufacturing process. Please don't wait until 3000 miles. If your interested I can post my oil sample.
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Old 01-27-2004, 05:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Great info! Thanks!
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Old 01-27-2004, 05:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I'm all over it, will dump it on Saturday, truck will sit in the garage until then. In my BMW's I use the Castrol Syntech, how do you feel about Castrol DINO 10-30? Thanks for the heads up, I imagine there is all kinds of assy junk in there.
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Old 01-27-2004, 05:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Castrol is not a bad oil concerning some of the oil samples I've read but it's most certainly not in the top 5. Did you know the Castrol Syntec that BMW recommends is not technically a synthetic at all? It's a hydrocracked oil that Castrol passes off as a full synthetic and somehow won the right to advertise that way when Mobil took them to court over it. What a scam and their price doesn't reflect this cheaper process either. I wouldn't use Castrol Syntec if someone gave me a lifetime supply for FREE.
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Old 01-27-2004, 05:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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no kiddin'...thanks

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Old 01-27-2004, 05:46 PM   #10 (permalink)
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wow, that's twice Pluck. I did take that mind reading course but I didn't know it worked so well.........
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Old 01-27-2004, 06:02 PM   #11 (permalink)
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What should somebody who doesn't see the numbers all the time get out of this document? What are the important figures of interest?
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Old 01-27-2004, 06:03 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Edit your post and remove that information
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Old 01-27-2004, 06:08 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Iron, Lead, Copper, and Silicon. Iron goes without saying, Lead is bearings, Copper can be from oil coolers, and Silicon is generally dirt but in newer engines, seals "leak" silicon into the oil up to 15k miles in some cases. Typical numbers for Iron, or hopeful should I say, after 3k miles would be 12ppm or less, Lead will hopefully go to 1, Copper should be less than 3 and Silicon under 10. These are hopeful numbers. Individual results vary from different vehicles, weather, driving conditions, warm-up times, etc. etc. The lower the numbers the better. Silicon is a biggie though after the engine breaks in because if your running a K&N or have a dirty paper air filter your numbers can get pretty high which is not good....DIRT
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Old 01-27-2004, 06:15 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Very interesting. That's a nice tool to have at your disposal.
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Old 01-27-2004, 06:24 PM   #15 (permalink)
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What tool? And by the way I'm modifying my oil sample report to delete my personal information but I'm not having much luck. Thanks for the tip. I'll get it in a minute.
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