new speakers

MaxPowers · 07-09-2004, 01:27 AM

So i just decided to get some new speakers professionally installed instead of doing it myself cuz i really didn't want to mess anything up. I had 6.5 Diamond audio components in the front doors that bracketed over the 6x9 space and 5.25 Boston Acoustics in the back. I had them hooked up to a rockford fosgate 4 channel amp. The sound is amazing. The only problem is that there really isn't enough bass so i was probably just gonna put one 10 under the rear seat soon to make it complete. The volume can go insanely loud and still sound incredibly clear.

Gearman1987 · 07-09-2004, 09:19 PM

I got a great deal on a st of POLK 6x9's, and POLK 6.5" speakers today. I installed the fronts without any problems. I removed the harness connector that was attached to the oem speaker and soldered it to the Polk speakers so I could use the factory wiring harness. I didn't have a chance to get to the rear speakers yet. The Polks made the factory system sound incredibly better. I have the 6 disc cd in dash system (not RF system) that came with the xe preferred package. I can't wait to get the rears in. I may add a sub later.

MaxPowers · 07-10-2004, 01:37 PM

I don't have a stock system, i've had an alpine deck in. It's awesome.

pciley · 07-13-2004, 08:32 PM

notice he said he put in amp to power the speakers... regardless of stock HU or not, it would power the speakers just fine

Gearman1987 · 07-13-2004, 08:51 PM

Got all my POLK speakers in, 6x9's in front, 6.5's in rear. Ordered to Alpine amps today and a POLK 10" sub. SWEET! Speaker intall was a breeze - had to modify the rears a little

bestatchess · 07-14-2004, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gearman1987

Got all my POLK speakers in, 6x9's in front, 6.5's in rear. Ordered to Alpine amps today and a POLK 10" sub. SWEET! Speaker intall was a breeze - had to modify the rears a little

Glad to hear the speakers went in easy. What did you have to do with the rear speakers? I have 2 sets of 6x5 components, and adapters from crutchfield for the front to go from 6x9 to 6x5.

"Ordered to Alpine amps" You had better change "to" to "two" before Sammy sees this.

I am looking at mounting my amps like LordReed had done in his CC:

http://kicker.com/HUShow.cfm?ID=55284

I'm not sure how the amp board is secured. I don't want to drill the backwall of the cab. I was thinking about angle brackets to the seat mounting bolts. There are also three child seat anchor points on the back wall with accessible bolts.

Any thoughts on amp mounting?

peanutbutter · 07-14-2004, 07:39 PM

You can try to get a board behind the back wall carpet to mount too. Then just mount the outer board to that board and it will stick. Just make sure the board behind the back wall is thin so you can get all of your "pop-screws" to pop back in. Seems like the easiest thing to do without drilling. I am pretty sure that the weight of the amps and the outer board would keep that thing in even in a wreck.

Gearman1987 · 07-14-2004, 08:15 PM

To get the 6.5 in the back I only had to drill new screw holes - wasn't bad at all. I 'm surprised that Sammy has beat on me yet with spelling - LoL.

I too saw the way those amps were mounted and am sure I will copy it. I am still trying to figure out the best was to mount the board without drilling new holes. I am waiting for all the bits and peices to show up: Polk 10" sub, Two Alpine amps (seperate shipments) Two LOC's, Speaker Baffles for doors, Monster Multi Amp Wiring kit. Wait till the wife see all this stuff show up - I'm going to get beat (Again) :-)

Sammy Sandbag · 07-14-2004, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bestatchess

"Ordered to Alpine amps" You had better change "to" to "two" before Sammy sees this.

Fear my wrath.

smoketitan · 07-14-2004, 09:53 PM

I bought this industrial glue from HD. and measured two 2x4 plates (this is not ecxact butthey were very small pieces of 1/2 mdf and glued those to the rear cab wall behind the carpet and just screwed into that through the carpet with a #8 wood screw. that is the best I could figure but it worked very secure and my amp is hidden at the bottom of the cab behind the seat. a pain to get to, but somewhat theft proof

and in re: to the rar speakers I used a boaord of 1/2 mdf and measured the stock holes--cut the speaker cutout diameter--matched the stock screw size at home depot,and just screwed the board into the stock holes--did the same for the front. the more holes you drill the less sturdy that steel baffel will be

good luck

bestatchess · 07-14-2004, 10:01 PM

O.K., thanks guys.

Gearman1987 · 07-15-2004, 05:35 AM

HEy Smoke, I like the idea of glueing in to wooden straps behind the carpeting of the back wall - seems smart enough - and much wiser than drilling into the back wall. I just ordered some protective foam baffles for my door speakers from Crutchfield, I had thought earlier about making mdf mount for the rear speakers, I managed to pry the OEM 6x9's out of the factory mount and modified that a little to fit my POLK 6x9's into. Thanks for the info.

bestatchess · 07-15-2004, 09:52 AM

O.K., one more question. I have read that it is better to mount amps with the fins in a vertical direction, so that heated air rises along the grooves. This makes sense to me from what little I remember from my heat transfer class many moons ago. However, my biggest amp is about 11.5 x 3 x 20 inches, and it would be better to mount it with the fins horizontal for purposes of space and connections (the terminals are on the 11.5 x 3" faces).

Does it make that big of a difference in heat transfer between horizontal and vertical fin orientation? Are my amps likely to be going into thermal shutdown if I mount them horizontal?