A day of electronic hell

Titan4x4Aggie · 07-11-2004, 11:08 PM

wanna feel the wrath and of God?

try spending one day pulling your amp, sub, and all associated wires out of your RX-7, pulling pounds of plastic out of your titan to neatly run the wires under the carpet and insulation, installing an LOC into stereo wires that are too short to work with, dropping a head unit bolt into the great abyss behind the drink holders where no human eye can see and no hand can reach, searching over an hour for a bolt that isn't coated with some nonconductive material and will actually work as a ground, and finally getting everything all hooked up and clean and ready to rock,

ONLY TO HAVE A ****ING AMP THAT DOESN'T POWER UP AND DOES ABSOLUTELY NOTHING!!!!!!! SILENCE, **** THE SILENCE.

i dont know if my remote wire is jacked up, or if the amp is broken, but i left my multimeter in san antonio so no i have no idea what's going on in electron land.

looks like i'm going to have to buy one just to figure this crap out.

i hate electronics. this is exactly why i became a mechanical engineer, and not electrical.

37L1 · 07-11-2004, 11:17 PM

Murphy's Law. Someday I'm going to catch up with Murphy and is he ever going to be sorry!!!!!!!

overdose · 07-11-2004, 11:18 PM

haha, that's all I can say. (in a good way)

Titan4x4Aggie · 07-12-2004, 01:24 AM

i've calmed down. tomorrow i will buy another multimeter and quickly diagnose the problem.

i'll take it from there...then to Best Buy if my amp is indeed busted.

peanutbutter · 07-12-2004, 03:22 AM

Hey Aggie, make sure you check your fuses. Also, where did you hook up the remote? Make sure that is not hooked up to a fuse. Same thing happened to me one day. Amp would not come on, took it back to best buy, they said nothing was wrong with it. So I ran a new remote and everything. Come to find out, I forgot that I indirectly hooked the remote into the fuse box and the fuse had blown. Pissed me off considering I ran a new remote in the best buy parking lot. Also, check the fuses on the amp and from your battery. They may be small, but they can cause a lot of problems.

Titan4x4Aggie · 07-12-2004, 11:14 PM

i ended up being i ran my remote off of the "amp signal on" wire, rather than the "accessory" wire. the amp on wire powers the stock amp, and only gives out 8.5V, not enough to turn on an aftermarket amp (12V).

so, i fixed that problem, and the amp turned on. i still got no signal from the speaker, ended up being one speaker wire in the box got disconnected. 12 screws later, that was fixed.

it sounds good, but i wish it hit a little harder. the gain from the LOC and the amp are maxed out, and my bass is turned up to 5. but, i'm only using a 120 W amp and a 10" sub, which worked great for my RX-7. but in that car, the sub / box were only 1 1/2 feet from my ear, and the sounds also bounced off the rear hatch.

oh well, this part is done, time to make the box for under the seat. i also need to clean up the wiring under the front seat where my amp now is.

smoketitan · 07-12-2004, 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Titan4x4Aggie

dropping a head unit bolt into the great abyss behind the drink holders where no human eye can see and no hand can reach, searching over an hour for a bolt that isn't coated with some nonconductive material and will actually work as a ground, and finally getting everything all hooked up and clean and ready to rock,

thats funny but I understand as I lost two of those hu screws in the abyss of nothingness

in regards to the sound 120w to a sub will not hit at all in the titan cab as it is so "airy" what sub are you using,and what loc as mine hits more than enough--I actually took out my 10 in the rear for some system redesign as it was killing the young ones--with my amp gains on zero

peanutbutter · 07-13-2004, 05:00 AM

You can get behind the cup holder by taking out the side panel adjacent to them. However, only would do this if you really needed those screws.

Aggie, how do you have the sub wired (parallel, series), what is the ohmage on the sub, and is it DVC? Sounds like you may be able to get more out of it by going series. If you have already done so, then I have no idea. I have had those problems in the past, but ended wiring it in series and it helped a ton. Made the sub hit almost twice as hard as before. You do take a risk somewhat, because you will run the amp at a 2ohm load, but that little wattage will probably not hurt that much.

Titan4x4Aggie · 07-13-2004, 06:23 AM

it's a single RF 10" sub running bridged from a 120 watt RF amp. it is currently in a bandpass box leftover from my rx-7 until i build my own box.

i think the main problem is the sub is just underpowered. 120 watt is well under what the sub is rated for. maybe another time when this amp goes out i'll get another more powerful one that will hit harder.

peanutbutter · 07-13-2004, 02:23 PM

Yeah, you are probably right. Most RF 10"s need at least 200wrms up to 300wrms. Good luck.

Sammy Sandbag · 07-13-2004, 02:40 PM

Yes, I'm suprised it doesn't clip like crazy. At high volume settings the clip light flashes on deep bass hits with my 280+ watt Infinity hooked to an Infinity 10" which had a recommended rms of 250 watts. I had two RF 8"s running off of a 2 channel RF 250w that sounded good in my blazer, but less than desirable when installed in the Titan.