power sliding rear window installed!

zx11rider · 09-18-2004, 10:28 PM

Got my CR Laurence "Powr-Slider" rear window from http://www.truckininstyle.com. Price was nice: $418 including shipping, I ordered on Tuesday and got it on Thursday. If you're thinking of getting one, I would definitely buy from these guys again.

It looks great (with 2 minor issues) and works awesome. A couple notes:

I pulled out all of the seats, interior panels, etc. You'll also need to pull the rear third brake light. The trim piece that lines the top of the rear body panel (just behind the headrests) is actually attached to the window. I don't know if you can separate it from the rest of the window, but without it, the top of the body panel is exposed and can look a little frayed (this being issue #1).

The blacked out edges of the new window are different from the old window in that from the outside you can see the back side of the upper rear trim pieces (where the upper seatbelt harness is bolted in). I may get some black cloth to cover it... the sound insulation kinda shows (this being issue #2).

Very important: Get a professional to remove the old window!! The window is held in with a very thick, very strong bead of urethane. I didn't have the patience to do it with a hand knife, I hired someone to cut it out and fit in the new one. If you are determined to DIY, you will need 2 tubes of urethane, maybe more if you are not very good at applying it. You will need 2 people to install, there are little tabs on the inside of the new window frame, you'll need someone outside to push the window in, and someone inside to bend the tabs down. Wear rubber gloves and be careful or the urethane will get everywhere! Have a solvent cleaner standing by just in case. Once the urethane dries you will not be able to remove it from cloth upholstry/interior panels.

If anyone has any question's I'll be more than happy to answer. Pics too if you want them.

Does this mean I'm the first guy with a Titan w/ a power sliding rear window?

**lizardking** · 09-18-2004, 10:52 PM

Yes we want pictures..How is this operated and where did runs wires and switches.

SmokenTitan · 09-18-2004, 10:53 PM

I wish someone would come up with a kit to attach to the factory rear window...

An arm that attaches that moves back and forth, sounds easy, but I'm sure selling a whole rear window costs more and so they make more...

Just venting, dont really want to replace the rear window...

Post some pics when you get time, would be neat to see...

zx11rider · 09-19-2004, 05:05 PM

Pic 1 shows the window from the outside.
Pic 2 is a closeup of the passenger side. Notice the back of the interior trim panel.
Pic 3 shows the switch. Although it doesn't match the other switches, it does fit the opening without any modifications.
Pic 4 is the view from inside. Notice the exposed top of the rear interior panel.

The wiring was pretty simple, everything was included. Two wires run to the motor mounted underneath the rear exhaust vents (behind the trim panel). They run to the switch. Power has an inline fuse, and with ground they go from the switch to +12v and the frame, respecitvely.

The motor is very quiet and I'm very happy despite the challenges involved!

smoketitan · 09-19-2004, 05:38 PM

oh my goodness that is amazing bro, I am getting one next month when I get paid, how long was the install??

overdose · 09-19-2004, 05:48 PM

That looks clean, very good installation. At first I thought it would be the whole rear window sliding down, wish that could be done, but these pics have changed my mind a bit. well done.

zx11rider · 09-20-2004, 01:46 PM

If you've never pulled apart the rear of the truck, figure 30 minutes to figure it all out and remove everything. The pro windshield guy removed the old window, dry fit, prepped the area and new window, laid the urethane and installed the window in under 2 hours. Then another 40 minutes to mount the motor (I used industrial velcro), run the wires, find a good power line if you haven't already, tap it, pop the blank switch plate and install the new switch. (20 minutes if you already have a known good power line) Then 30 minutes to put it all back together.

Maybe 4 hours from start to finish? At least that's what I'm figuring (conservatively) if I had to do it again. Double that if you plan on removing the old window yourself with a hand knife... partly because it will take a long time to cut through all of the urethane, and partly because you are going to want to dedicate some time to take a break and do a lot of cursing. The $125 I paid the windshield guy as worth every penny, factor that into the overall cost of the window!

MikeZ · 09-20-2004, 01:55 PM

ZX, I had a CR on my last truck and was very pleased. It never gave me any problems and enjoyed it. This is on my "to do" mod list for my titan, just havent worked it in yet. Looks great, enjoy it!

smoketitan · 09-20-2004, 02:12 PM

may I ask where you mounted the motor?? and can I assume that the window is not tinted like the factory rears?? and may I ask would be okay to tap into my amplifier distrobution power block to run the motor?? or do I need to tap a power line in the front of the vehicle--may I ask where youtapped your power from??

zx11rider · 09-20-2004, 02:27 PM

When you pull the rear interior panel off (the one behind your rear seats), you'll see a vent with flaps on it (used to let air out out of the cab when your windows are rolled up and you slam the door shut). I mount the motor underneath there. The motor assembly thing looks like a fishing pole. One end is the motor, about the size of a fist, then there's a long rigid portion, maybe 2 feet long and 1" x 1" cross section. This is connected by a cable to the window slider at the bottom passenger side of the window. Originally I mounted it all flat against the rear wall and floor, but the entire assembly is long enough that the passenger rear seat floor bracket will pinch the "rod" portion of the assembly and the bracket will not fully seat on the floor. So I had to mount it with the motor on the floor and the "rod" lifted up, but it's all still pressed against the rear wall with velcro.

For power I have an amp in the back, i just tapped off the constant +12v line running back there and I ran the ground to a bolt under the dash. You can run off the amp distro block but if that's in the back you'll need to extend the wire that comes with the kit, it's only about 2 ft long, not a big deal.

And yes,the window is tinted and matches the factory tint.