Stock *cough* RF speakers!??

[t22a80]

Hey everyone,

I ended up with the RF or so called "RF stereo with big power" that’s how the salesman explained it anyway. I knew it wasn’t anything special but it came with the particular package. Well as it turns out I was one of the lucky ones that had to bring it back for a bad FM tuner. I had that replaced and after 2 months am bored with it already. I have had aftermarket stuff in every car I’ve owned. I don’t think I'll be able to leave this one alone for long. I've seen a lot of you have done some nice stuff. My first question is are the door speakers full range or are they crossed over at the amp? Also is the "tweeter" dash speaker, is this crossed over or just have a capacitor on it? My plan as of now is to replace the door speakers with some CDT HD-63's because that’s what I had in my last truck and loved them. And also add the new stagefront tweeters. CDT recommends that they be installed in the A-pillars. My truck has the airbags, does anyone know if I can remove them without messing anything up?? I'd be willing to surface mount the tweeter I just don’t want to have the wire showing. The final question is has anyone located a crossover for a component set in the door?? I've seen some people mount them on the back wall. I'd do this but just didn’t want to have to tear it all apart..... yet.

Thanks for your help!!!
Chad

[bestatchess]

I bought what appear to be CDT speakers from www.edesignaudio.com (edi6500s) for a very good price, in a package deal with two TRU amps and one 11 KV2 sub. The speakers look like CDT speakers, but lack the logo. The crossovers carry the CDT brand. I mounted two sets front & rear in the stock locations of a crew cab and they sound great. I have the rear crossovers in the rear doors and the front crossovers under the dash. I selected the crossover locations so that I would only have to pull one pair of 12 gage speaker wires through each door boot. I previously posted photos.

[smoketitan]

1) run your own speaker wire even trought he dash
2) the hd-63 had them, but they will sit to low in the titan to optimize the braxial function--the hd-63 hve to mount to the door itslef on some mdf rings, the black stock holder has to be removed or they will hit the panel

3) the cdt upstage kit will help, but those cdt tweets are really bright--but everyone is different
4) the stock tweeter is not crossed--it has a capacitor glued to it
5) door speakers run full range
6) the a pillars can be removed along with the airbags--but Id just put them in the dash if I were you to not have to risk damgae o your $2300 option airbags
7) the RF is terrible--lol


good luck and find besatchess's post it was a awesome how to guide

and fyi if your subs are clean enough you dont need to replace the rear speakers---run them off deck (they are 2 ohm 45w max if I remember correctly) power or leave them out all together

I ran 4 components at first, got beter subs and crossed them to 80-100--cross my front mids at 63-80hz and volia no rear speakers needed---but note that my subs fire forward into the cab

[t22a80]

Thanks for the replies guys!

bestatches-

I did see your install and even bookmarked it when I was doing a search the other night. I went to the ED web page and those components look just like the CDT stuff I had. The TRU amps are wicked nice. I think that ED and CDT must be in cahoots because when shopping for amps CDT recommended the TRU amps... coincidence??

smoketitan-

I will probably run my own wire, I do have a couple issues though. I didn’t want to have to mess with the plug on the factory amp just yet. I would like to just run it from the factory stuff (HU and AMP) for a while.

I had opted for the silk tweeter for my set because I think that metal domes can be to harsh also, I tried a pair of MB's before and they bugged me. With the xovers though you should be able to turn the tweets down. With them down in the door I’d think that you wouldn’t hear much of them anyway, that’s why the upstage kit was recommended.

I thought about mounting the tweeters in the stock location but having them pointed up towards the windshield is terrible for soundstage, you want them to crossfire and meet in the middle of the glass to get good sound.

When you say hit the panel do you mean door panel on the inside (window) or outside (plastic skin) of the door? I guess its something I’d just have to see when I start working on it. I know some companies make 6x9- 6.5 speaker adapters, would this work if I put some dynamat xtreme on them??

The subs you speak of..... did you make custom boxes for them what size are they?? I don’t want to lose any back seat space just yet so my subs will sit in storage for now. It sounds like you are talking about factory location ones?? I have the king cab, I don’t know if that makes a diff for speaker locations.


Thanks again!!