Running wires for amps, Help!

MSnook · 02-22-2005, 10:24 PM

Hey guys, thanks for reading this. I have subs and amps ready to go in, but I have to stick to the stock stereo before I can purchase the DDX7015... I bought the RCA converter thing.. Anyone willing to take the time to tell me how to wire it? From where to run the power cable through the firewall to how to wire up the converter the best way.. Even how to take the dash off....

Thank you!
Mike Snook

miramar-motorsports · 02-22-2005, 11:00 PM

Call me a baby

but I didn't want to smoke my head unit so I had a local stereo shop install it with all the wiring for about 100 dollars.
They mounted the amp. and everything looks clean.
I know saving a buck or two is nice, but it was done in 1 hour....

bestatchess · 02-22-2005, 11:03 PM

If you list (brand, model, number, specs) exactly what you have as far as subs, amps (watts rms, channels, brand, model), speakers, LOC, any wiring you already purchased, and also which stereo you have in your truck (base, midline, or RF), I will make an attempt.

MSnook · 02-22-2005, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bestatchess

If you list (brand, model, number, specs) exactly what you have as far as subs, amps (watts rms, channels, brand, model), speakers, LOC, any wiring you already purchased, and also which stereo you have in your truck (base, midline, or RF), I will make an attempt.

Well, I have the SE with the 6 disk non-RF. I have 2 Infinity 10's in a box wired to 2 JBL300 amps (one for each). The RCA's are already connected to eachother, so it's ready to go. I have the kits, and a cheapo RCA converter before I get the deck. I'll want to mount it up where the deck is so it will be an easy swap.

As for letting a store do it, I took it in, and it's quoted at 200$!! Just to run wires, the subs and amp are ready to go!! Rediculous.. I got one down to 120, but still... That's that much longer I have to wait to get the Kenwood deck...

Thanks,
Mike

dunder23 · 02-22-2005, 11:20 PM

If you have the rockford package you can tap into the wires to the sub by the drivers seat. Just pop the step covers and you'll be able to track down the right wire. I ran my control power to the amps to a switch, just in case I got pulled over by the coppers. I also ran my 0 gauge wire down the passenger side to the back vent and pulled the wires through there. It's alot easier than going through the firewall. I'm still looking at putting 4 10's in instead of the 2 12's, it's going to be close, but I think I can pull it off.
Later, Dan.

bestatchess · 02-23-2005, 12:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MSnook

Well, I have the SE with the 6 disk non-RF. I have 2 Infinity 10's in a box wired to 2 JBL300 amps (one for each). The RCA's are already connected to eachother, so it's ready to go. I have the kits, and a cheapo RCA converter before I get the deck. I'll want to mount it up where the deck is so it will be an easy swap.

As for letting a store do it, I took it in, and it's quoted at 200$!! Just to run wires, the subs and amp are ready to go!! Rediculous.. I got one down to 120, but still... That's that much longer I have to wait to get the Kenwood deck...

Thanks,
Mike

Power to Amps

Since you are running a total of 600 Watts (make sure I am correct on this point), you can use 4 gauge wire. If you want to make provisions for running more powerful amps (or an additional amp) in the future, you could go with 0 gauge wire, but then you would need to drill or enlarge an existing hole in the firewall. You may also want to investigate the power requirements of the Kenwood deck as far as the capacity of the stock harness wiring to meet its requirements.

The wiring route I used (in reverse order, I started wiring at the amps) was ring terminal to accessory screw terminal at positive battery post to fuse holder (as close as possible to battery), under cowl within engine compartment (in split loom and secured under cowl by zip ties and industrial strength VELCRO) across to driver's side. I only used split loom in the engine compartment. Then through 1/2 inch hole with black rubber plug in firewall behind brake booster. I pulled the rubber plug out, made a hole in the rubber plug and threaded it on the wire for use as a grommet so that the wire would not saw on the edges of the hole. You can see the rubber plug if you look from the engine compartment behind the brake booster with a flashlight. No drilling required for 4 gauge wire.

Then underneath the plastic side edge trim panel in the gutter than runs down the driver's side to the rear of the cab. I used a streetwires fused distribution block with included ground connections, grounding the distribution block to one of the child seat anchor bolts on the rear cab wall. You can probably ground to one of the rear seat anchor bolts as well.

0 Gage Ground Wire Upgrade

Lizardking posted a thread about upgrading the battery to chassis to block ground wire to 0 gage. Many have found this upgrade necessary to eliminate alternator whine. I used an aftermarket gold plated negative battery terminal which accommodates a 0 gage cable.

Head Unit Wiring

Grab the dash cover over the HU by one corner and start pulling. It is held on by clips at each corner and you just grab it and pull it off. There are electrical connections on the back of the cover for the A/C controls, etc. The connections have detents. Some you push with a screwdriver before pulling apart, and there is at least one of them you have to pull a lever up before pulling the connectors apart. They can only go back together in one way, so you don't have to worry about mixing them up, although if you like to feel secure you could label the wires with little tags and make a sketch showing what goes where.

After you get the dash cover off and connectors released, there are 4 phillips-head screws that hold the head unit to its bracket. Remove those being careful not to drop them or you may never find them again. Pull the head unit outwardly and disconnect the electrical connectors on the back by depressing the detents with a screwdriver. Disconnect the antenna cable.

If you don't want to chop the factory wiring, you can buy connector/pigtails that plug into the factory harness and HU. The one that plugs into the factory harness is Scosche NN03B and the one that plugs into the HU is Scosche NN03RB. The reverse harness (in case you can't find the NN03RB) is available on Ebay as something like "Nissan/Infiniti 1995 & up" and is described as plugging into the factory radio. The concept of using the connectors with pigtails is that you can make the desired connections between the connector/pigtails and the LOC sitting at the kitchen table and then plug the connectors in to avoid chopping the factory wires and tedious splicing work behind the dash. Also, the wires on the connector/pigtails are labeled and color coded, which simplifies the wiring job. Alternatively, you can splice your LOC into the factory wires.

LOC to amps

I ran the RCA cables across under the dash to the passenger side and down along the gutter located under the plastic trim piece. The RCAs should be kept separate from the power cable.

bestatchess · 02-23-2005, 01:11 AM

P.S. You also need to run a wire to the remote on connections for the amps. This is a low current draw application so you can use small gauge wire, but you should run a little inline fuse at the power source. The remote on wire turns the amps on when the wire is +12V, so you should connect it to a wire that goes to +12V only when you have the ignition on to avoid accidentally draining the battery. As mentioned in a prior post, you can also switch this wire so you can turn the amps on and off as desired.

MSnook · 02-24-2005, 09:11 AM

Well, you certainly rock my world! I have printed this out, and I'll be making the attempt Saturday!

Thank you for your time!!!!

Mike

Snap · 05-04-2005, 07:33 PM

Anyone know what color the remote turn on wire is on the RF system? I've searched all over for it but can't seem to find a post that tells what color it is. Thanks for any help you can give me.