Ok stereo system is getting done.

[tr0uted]

Just curious, why the cap? Mostly for the video stuff? I'm having a similar setup put in and I was told I don't need the cap because the vehicle is new & most likely has enough power to supply the amps all the juice they need. Plus JL's amps are highly efficient when it comes to this sort of thing.

- JL 500.1
- JL 300.4
- (3) JL 10w3s
- MB Quart Q series all around
- Alpine 9831 headunit (I think I drooled a little when I saw your Eclipse )

[smoketitan]

Originally Posted by tr0uted

Just curious, why the cap? Mostly for the video stuff? I'm having a similar setup put in and I was told I don't need the cap because the vehicle is new & most likely has enough power to supply the amps all the juice they need. Plus JL's amps are highly efficient when it comes to this sort of thing.

- JL 500.1
- JL 300.4
- (3) JL 10w3s
- MB Quart Q series all around
- Alpine 9831 headunit (I think I drooled a little when I saw your Eclipse )

for that amount of power you wont need a cap at all

I run double that and I dont dim at all

[DallasTitan]

Very nicely done. Navigation included?(sorry if I missed the post regarding nav.)

[godofspeed]

Originally Posted by DallasTitan

Very nicely done. Navigation included?(sorry if I missed the post regarding nav.)

Yep , it has navigation.

[VShortt]

That looks great!!!

[Sammy Sandbag]

Looks good, but I still think you need more monitors...... jeez, it's like a sports bar in there. Too bad you can't set it up so that each one can be showing something different with it's own controls.

[ßaller]

As long as you run 4 gauge or lower (0/1), depending on systems total wattage. Capacitors are a waste of money.

Nice AVN unit, Eclipse are nice!

- ßaller

[SarkaZm]

Originally Posted by ßaller

As long as you run 4 gauge or lower (0/1), depending on systems total wattage. Capacitors are a waste of money.

Nice AVN unit, Eclipse are nice!

- ßaller

How is that?

[ßaller]

http://mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/

That site got alot of useful information. I have upgraded my wiring. I currently had 4 gauge from positive of battery to a distribution block which outputs 8 gauge. So I had both my amp with 8 gauge power/ground. Now that I have a new distribution block that does 4 gauge to 4 gauge output, and 4 gauges power/ground to amp, no more dim lights are noticeable. It is more moneywise to upgrade your wiring first before spending money on a cap.
Most senior audio guys on maxima forum have similar experience also. I like reading informational stuff, but I also like the fact I saved money and hassle over installing a cap.



- ßaller

[godofspeed]

Originally Posted by ßaller

http://mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/

That site got alot of useful information. I have upgraded my wiring. I currently had 4 gauge from positive of battery to a distribution block which outputs 8 gauge. So I had both my amp with 8 gauge power/ground. Now that I have a new distribution block that does 4 gauge to 4 gauge output, and 4 gauges power/ground to amp, no more dim lights are noticeable. It is more moneywise to upgrade your wiring first before spending money on a cap.
Most senior audio guys on maxima forum have similar experience also. I like reading informational stuff, but I also like the fact I saved money and hassle over installing a cap.



- ßaller

Im running 1 gauge powe wire that splits to 2 4 gauge wire. I added the cap as a precautionary measure.

[SarkaZm]

Originally Posted by ßaller

http://mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/

That site got alot of useful information. I have upgraded my wiring. I currently had 4 gauge from positive of battery to a distribution block which outputs 8 gauge. So I had both my amp with 8 gauge power/ground. Now that I have a new distribution block that does 4 gauge to 4 gauge output, and 4 gauges power/ground to amp, no more dim lights are noticeable. It is more moneywise to upgrade your wiring first before spending money on a cap.
Most senior audio guys on maxima forum have similar experience also. I like reading informational stuff, but I also like the fact I saved money and hassle over installing a cap.



- ßaller

Hmmm, after looking at the site you posted I found this:

2.9.3 Will the dimming go away if I upgrade the amplifier power/ground wiring? [MZ]

A common myth in the car audio community is that upgrading the power or ground wire to the amplifier will result in the amplifier drawing less current and therefore decreasing the voltage fluctuation. While the logic is sound, the premise is not. Most amplifiers on the market have semi-regulated supplies which don't maintain a steady power output at a range of supply voltages. This is reflected in the power ratings provided by many manufacturers; some provide ratings for their amplifiers at two different voltages, and the lower voltage almost always causes the amp to deliver less power. In general, the difference in power output tends to correspond well with the supply voltage such that the current draw remains roughly constant (assuming somewhat similar efficiency). Consequently, upgrading the power/ground wiring, which serves to increase the voltage at the amplifier's terminals, will not reduce headlight dimming.

I'm not trying to cause an argument; I agree that you should always buy quality properly sized cables but larger cables and a cap are not the same things. A cap is great for dimming headlights and I cannot see how larger cable does anything. Cables do not store energy like a capacitor. A cap will provide more consistent/even power to the amp, as well as put less stress on your vehicles charging system.

[lizardking]

Cap's are usually a waste... Upgrading your alternator is the best route!

[ßaller]

I am not here to argue over cap vs awg size. I have read alot of stuff, but sometimes factual information and actual varies also. Sure a Cap will help with dimming. I am just here to inform people to try upgrading their awg gauge, since it will be much cheaper than getting a cap. If all else fails, then it would be worth the investment to get the cap so that your headlights won't be blinking or winking at cars in front of you.

I have personally seen system over 2000 Watts with no dimming lights, no cap, nor 2nd battery. All 0 AWG.

Then again I had a system less than 500 watts total, and then dimsum.
I gave my 1 Farad RF Cap to my buddy.


- ßaller

[lizardking]

When I had my Titan I was pushing more wattage then anyone on this board. I was running all 1/0 gauge. I changed my alternator and battery grounds to 1/0 gauge and I never had dimming lights unless and didn't run a cap either but the Titan has a decent alternator.. Altrernator will always be your best bet when dealing with dimming lights after you have checked your grounds and ran decent size ground cables..

[ßaller]

Nice! I will probably replace my alternator when my current engine dies and I get a VQ3.5 with new ECU, AC, and transmission also. Right now my max is running fine with her 3.0 @ 201k+ miles.

I know them Optima Yellow Top dry cells are nice, but I like my red top.


- ßaller