I wanted to start this post to look at options for a good sub or subs I can fit in a small box in a KC titan so as not to take up all the room under the seats in the Titan.
So far I found a pair JL W3 10's would fit and would probably be fairly good SQ. A box could be built to fit them under the passengers rear seat.
I also Found this Audioban sub http://www.woofersetc.com/product.as...7&1=218&3=3385
But I'm wondeirn ghow it would sound in Quality and loudness compaired to 2 10W3's I have never heard one. Also would I need to really own a 1200 watt RMS amp to power it or is the efficiency as high as it says?
Feel free to comment or list other otions for a sub that would fit in this space. I don't think it would be possible to fit a W6V2 or W7 either.
it would be nice to find something that works with my existing amp. it's
600x1 @4 ohm RMS
300x2 @2 ohm
150x2 @4 ohm
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PRG Upper Arms and SAWs DR rears 4" lift, Dunder Grill, Extensive Stereo System, HID Club, AEM, Stillen Exhaust, Wet Okoles. Some Titan Pictures (Work in Progress)
Interesting but they are dual Voice coil and only 300 watts? How would these sound compaired to a W3? It says they jsut have a thick paper cone. Does not sound very impressive.
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PRG Upper Arms and SAWs DR rears 4" lift, Dunder Grill, Extensive Stereo System, HID Club, AEM, Stillen Exhaust, Wet Okoles. Some Titan Pictures (Work in Progress)
I have 2 W0 12's right now but it would be nice to get something that fits better and sounds more clear. I have never heard a properly powered W3 in a truck but I would imagine they are louder than 0's? I'm thinking getting 2 10 W3s should be at least 1/2 the volume of my 12's in the Bandpass box but probably 2 times as clear?
Thnat Audioban is temping though with a 4.5 inch mounting depth and being a non flat speaker cone + 1000 watts RMS!
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PRG Upper Arms and SAWs DR rears 4" lift, Dunder Grill, Extensive Stereo System, HID Club, AEM, Stillen Exhaust, Wet Okoles. Some Titan Pictures (Work in Progress)
I agree on the JL's. I've had close to 15 different brands of subs in my day and the best I ever had were my JL's. I had two 12w4's in my old Altima and I had an 18w6 in my Prelude. They were the two best sounding systems I've ever had. JL quality is hard to beat. One thing that I have learned is that the appearance of a sub has zero to do with sound Q. Black and white is plain, but it sounds great.
adire subs are actually some of the best I have ever heard read almost any reviews most people who own them have switched from JL. I have heard many enthusiasts say go listen to a W7 and if you wanna know what a brahma series sounds like imagine it clearer.
also justin its a dual voice coil at 300watts a coil meaning 600 watts a sub
adire subs are actually some of the best I have ever heard read almost any reviews most people who own them have switched from JL. I have heard many enthusiasts say go listen to a W7 and if you wanna know what a brahma series sounds like imagine it clearer.
also justin its a dual voice coil at 300watts a coil meaning 600 watts a sub
it says 300 watts a sub though not 300 a coil. But if they are ineed dual 2 ohm coils 150 watts a coil then this would make each sub 300 watts at 4 ohms. My Amp Cannot run this as these subs use too much power for my amp. I could only run 1 sub and then I would have 600 watts to a 300 watt speaker. However I could not run 2 since plugging them both in would be the same as running the sub in parallel which would lower the resistance to 1 ohm. My amp is not 1 ohm stable when bridged it is only 4 ohm stable when bridged. It is 2 ohm stable per channel. This is also a reson I do not think I could put a W6 in my truck since they only run at either 2 ohms or 8 ohms (4 ohm coils on them) even if I ould get them to fit.
It sounds like they are less efficient than JL over all unless I'm missing something. I have never heard them but I don't think they match my amp well?
The thing with the W3's is I would not need to purchase a new amp because they can be wired for 600x1 @ 4 ohm. Or even 300x2 @ 2ohm a speaker if I want to keep them in sterio. I don't see that as a possibility with the Shivas that are actually using 2x the power of a W3.
Please correct me if I'm wrong!
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PRG Upper Arms and SAWs DR rears 4" lift, Dunder Grill, Extensive Stereo System, HID Club, AEM, Stillen Exhaust, Wet Okoles. Some Titan Pictures (Work in Progress)
actually adires are very efficent subs they rate them to sell them but if you read most of their stuff their subs will perform at very low wattage the 300 or so is not needed to drive the subs.
I have played with JL Audio and will admit it's a great a sub, but the fun part of buying a something (especially an upgrade to a vehicle's sound system) is the shopping around of different product. I've competed and still judge car audio competitions (USACi to be exact). I don't plan to redo anything in the Titan quite yet but now and then look into some sub and amp upgrades. Here are a few brands to consider:
- Image Dynamics, the IDQ's are inexpensive, work in small enclosures and efficient
- JL has the the W3's (I haven't found a W1 set up I liked yet).
- Kicker has their Solo's and VRs but air space may be a factor.
There are several others from Alpine to Crossfire to Phoenix Gold and all of them may have a sub that will suit your needs. I personally like these smaller companies that put together some great car audio product. I've worked with all of these (some entry level, some SPL) and have not been disappointed:
- Adire Audio
- Treo Engineering
- Elemental Designs
- Resonant Engineering
Take a gander at some of these brands. There's nothing wrong by being safe and going with a very very reputable brand like JL or Kicker which I've had in my last vehicle, but you may want to give these other dogs a chance that can perform.
LOL...Currently I have Treo on my golf cart and have Elemental products on my jet ski.
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2007 FJ Cruiser...will miss my Titan
I just looked again and the shivas are dual 4 or dual 8 ohm coils so I would have the same problem as a W6 as there is no way to wire them for 600 watts with my amp In fact it seems like I need a 1 ohm stable amp to run them at all.
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PRG Upper Arms and SAWs DR rears 4" lift, Dunder Grill, Extensive Stereo System, HID Club, AEM, Stillen Exhaust, Wet Okoles. Some Titan Pictures (Work in Progress)
This Audiobahn 12" AWP312T has very impressive stats. Efficiency of 96dB is amazing (1 watt @ 1 meter?) I am just guessing that the 1200 watt power is peak (not RMS) and even if it's RMS is 50% less at <600 watts, it is still great. Also being a DVC, a nice 2 channel amp can power this baby. It also has a very shallow mounting depth of less than 5 inches (good for under the back seat set-up)
I'm seriously considering this sub-woofer for my custom sub-box I made late last month. I just need to research the required box air volume and if it is between 0.8-1.2 cu.ft., this is what I've been looking for.
i like the alpine type R's. the 2005 models are running 500 watts rms and 1500 watts peak on there 10" and 12" models-pretty good price to. you can get them in 2 ohm or 4 ohm models, i think there mounting depth is around 6 inches or so. alphasonic makes some kick@ss subs for an awsom price to. a good cheap website is www.sonicelectronix.com they have alphasonic stuff.
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04 TITAN CC 4x4, 2/4 DROP, 20" DUBS, DEBADGED ALL THE WAY AROUND, STILLEN ROLL PAN, CUSTOM SHAVED TAILGATE, ARMADA PAINTED FRONT AIR DAM, PAINTED MIRRORS, HANDLES, AND WIPER COWL, BRUSHED BILLITT GRILL, CUSTOM 2.5" DUAL EXHAUST, NISMO R-TUNE INTAKE, STILLEN FRONT 14" BIG BRAKES AND MASTER CYLINDER BRACE, TINTED WINDOWS, BLACKOUTS, WINDOW VENTS, LCD, XBOX, CD/MP3 PLAYER, ALPINE TYPE "R" 12 W/500 ALPINE AMP, COMPUSTAR AUTOSTART/ALARM.
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