Help with Electronic Opening of LSII Tonneau Cover
First off, thanks to Niteblitz and others who posted details and pics of the ARE LSII Cover. I had one installed and he had never done a Titan before (big surprise) so Niteblitz's pics came in very handy.
Anyway, my pics are posted below. Like some others I opted for the remote unlocking feature, but my dealer would not install it for me. He basically laughed when I asked. So does anyone know the details on how to install?? The "detailed instructions" (this is a quote from a ARE rep in an email request) don't even have the Titan on it. Basically I have two wires that come from the cover (yellow and green in the pics) that I have to run somewhere. At least one has to be associated with power door locks.
The electronic opener functions in conjunction with the power door locks, i.e. when you unlock/lock the doors the cover locks also. The cover is completely functional without the auto lock feature since you can move the solenoid with a key lock, but I would like to install the auto feature.
Basically I have to run the wires out of the bed, back into the cab, to somewhere. Perhaps the kick panel or some panel located in the B pillar. Does anyone have any other details or recommendation how to run the wires?
Anyway, my pics are posted below. Like some others I opted for the remote unlocking feature, but my dealer would not install it for me. He basically laughed when I asked. So does anyone know the details on how to install?? The "detailed instructions" (this is a quote from a ARE rep in an email request) don't even have the Titan on it. Basically I have two wires that come from the cover (yellow and green in the pics) that I have to run somewhere. At least one has to be associated with power door locks.
Hi canman:
Glad I could be of service on your ARE II install! I also got the opener kit and to be quite candid, I still have it months later sitting on my desk. I have some instruction sheets that the installer supplied me with the kit. I will be glad to get them scanned for you if you don't have them. I do remember that the installer told me to be sure and remove a piece of the locking mech if I used the power lock. I wish I could remember better to describe it to you. Hopefully looking at the power drive vs. a key will make the part he mentioned obvious. This step he said was not in the instructions.
Quite frankly I have never felt I needed the power lock (after I got it for free) because of the few times I really need to lock / unlock the back. I have not missed it and I always have it to put on later should that change. The wiring also adds a complication if you take the top off. I wanted mine to be easy to remove when I carry tall objects requiring the tops removal.
I think I remember however sometime back someone posted pics showing the routing of the wires. Maybe a search of the site will find these.
Hope this helps some. Advise if I can assist you further on anything.
Thanks again for the help. I would greatly appreciate scans of any paperwork you have. Just drop me a PM and I will give you my email address. The paperwork I have is pretty much useless.
I also agree that the remote feature is not really necessary, and I am not in a big hurry to install it, especially if it will require some drilling or something. That is why I was hoping someone would have some ideas of directions to start. I got mine mainly because I thought it would be harder to upgrade later if I really wanted it so I wanted to have the potential. I will do some more searching and see if I can find something.
Maybe this will help... (just read, it gets more interesting) The door lock switch on the driver's side sends a signal to the BCM (Body Control Module) under the dash, which spits power back into the door(s) to lock/unlock.
The wires going from the BCM to the driver's door lock actuator (~12v) are green and violet. Green is the unlock output and violet is the lock output (with the other of the two wires being grounded in the temporary circuit when the switch is pressed).
The wires going from the BCM to the passenger door lock actuator are green/yellow and violet, with violet again being the lock output and green/yellow is the unlock this time.
If you want the cover to lock and unlock with the driver's door you can use the drivers door wires green and violet.
I would use the passenger side door lock actuators wires though. This way, when you unlock from the key fob once, it unlocks the driver's door only right? when you press it twice it unlocks the rest of the doors and now the tonneau cover. ((I have an aftermarket alarm so the operations of the key fob are just what I have understood by reading here.)) In this way, you can choose when you want the cover unlocked.
I would not wire the cover's power lock directly to these wires. They were not intended to power extra actuators. Instead, I would use a relay from these wires and another 12v source to power the lock in the cover.
Judging by that bundle of split loom in your picture, if that is ALL of the wiring that was supplied... If there is no relay next to the power lock in the cover, then I would have to say no relay was supplied. The wires are already in split loom which is very nice. You can run this up into your cab, hopefully through an existing hole of which there are several. Then under your dash and to the BCM wiring to get at those power lock signals for your relay(s) that you might need to buy.
Judging by that bundle of split loom in your picture, if that is ALL of the wiring that was supplied... If there is no relay next to the power lock in the cover, then I would have to say no relay was supplied. The wires are already in split loom which is very nice. You can run this up into your cab, hopefully through an existing hole of which there are several. Then under your dash and to the BCM wiring to get at those power lock signals for your relay(s) that you might need to buy.
pciley,
Thinking about this more, I don't think I will need to get a relay. I am no electronic pro, but there is a solenoid that is inside the cover in the attached pic. I agree with you that running it to the passenger power door locks is the way to go, but I am still looking on how to run the wires.
Does anyone have any good ideas on how to run the wires from the bed (w/spray in bed liner) and back into the cab. I took a quick look under the truck (not on jacks) and it does look like there are some holes to go into, but I am not sure exactly where to go once I get in.
Thinking about this more, I don't think I will need to get a relay. I am no electronic pro, but there is a solenoid that is inside the cover in the attached pic. I agree with you that running it to the passenger power door locks is the way to go, but I am still looking on how to run the wires.
Does anyone have any good ideas on how to run the wires from the bed (w/spray in bed liner) and back into the cab. I took a quick look under the truck (not on jacks) and it does look like there are some holes to go into, but I am not sure exactly where to go once I get in.
Hello, Canman
It must be ok to wire straight into the remote unlocking system. This is the way A.R.E does it, so if there was a problem, I don't think they would do it this way. It's only momentary contact anyway. Here are the steps layed out in pictures called wiring 1 through wiring 19. Pic 1 & 2 show tie wrap sticky backs glued to the cover with silicon sealer. The reason for this is they won't stay stuck when they get hot, so the sealer takes care of this problem. Then tie wrap your wires to them after the silicon cures, makes a nice job. Pic 3,4,5,6,7 show a nice way to route your wires down into the inside of the fender well to join the original factor wiring harness on the frame of the truck. Follow this harness as far as you can and tie wrap your wires to it. Pic 8 shows under the truck where your wires will join the factory harness. At about the back of the cab under the truck, I used a hole in the side of the frame and ran the wire down inside the frame and exited at the back door on my crew cab as shown in pic 9. Then pic 10 & 11 shows it entering the cab through an existing hole into the rocker panel. Then put silicon sealer on the wiring on the rocker panel to keep water out. Pic 12 shows wiring entering the B pillar area or step plate at the back passenger door, had to drill one 3/8" hole here to get the wiring harness into the truck. Its about the same size as the holes used on the step plate fasteners. Pics 13,14,15,16 show wiring running through to the drivers side A pillar area. Pics 17,18,19 show the connecion of the locks green and yellow wires to the truck. The locks green wire connects to the (green with yellow strip) wire on the truck with the supplied A.R.E quick connectors. The locks Yellow wire connects to the (purple)wire on the truck with the supplied A.R.E quick connectors. This is the way mine is wired and haven't had any problems, but the color sheet says to wire green to purple and yellow to green/yellow strip its up to you. When I press the button once it unlocks the drivers door, press it again and the front and rear passenger and cover unlock. To lock press remote once and all doors and cover will lock at once. Hope this will help you out. I will also include the wiring color sheet for the A.R.E LSII cover they supplied with my cover.
Thinking about this more, I don't think I will need to get a relay. I am no electronic pro, but there is a solenoid that is inside the cover in the attached pic. I agree with you that running it to the passenger power door locks is the way to go, but I am still looking on how to run the wires.
Does anyone have any good ideas on how to run the wires from the bed (w/spray in bed liner) and back into the cab. I took a quick look under the truck (not on jacks) and it does look like there are some holes to go into, but I am not sure exactly where to go once I get in.
Unbelievable! Thanks a ton cessna. I am a member of several different forums and sites on a wide variety of topics and hands down this is the best site as far as friendly helpful people that I have ever seen. Your help is way beyond what I think most people would expect!
I feel almost crazy asking another question but since you have been so helpful I will. I see that you also have the sliding bed extender. When you flip the extender from in to out with the cover installed (but obviously up) does it clear the c-clamps? I realize there is no real reason to have the bed extender out with the cover on, but when I flip mine (or just raise it to remove it) it rubs against the c-clamps. Not a huge deal, but I already have a nice scracth on my bed extender from trying it without paying too much attention.
Unbelievable! Thanks a ton cessna. I am a member of several different forums and sites on a wide variety of topics and hands down this is the best site as far as friendly helpful people that I have ever seen. Your help is way beyond what I think most people would expect!
I feel almost crazy asking another question but since you have been so helpful I will. I see that you also have the sliding bed extender. When you flip the extender from in to out with the cover installed (but obviously up) does it clear the c-clamps? I realize there is no real reason to have the bed extender out with the cover on, but when I flip mine (or just raise it to remove it) it rubs against the c-clamps. Not a huge deal, but I already have a nice scracth on my bed extender from trying it without paying too much attention.
Thanks again cessna.
Canman
Loosen the front clamps and slide the cover rails as far over to the bed as possible. I had to do a little filing on the clamps to keep them from pulling the rails to the inside of the bed when you tighten them down. When this happens, the bed extender will rub the clamps. Look close at your rails. There is a lip on them. Make sure they are snug up against the bed.
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07-04-2004, 08:31 AM
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