I suggest you just grind the deflector.. seems like a quick and straightforward fix. If that lost bolt drives you nuts try using a speaker magnet to get her out.
-Cyrus
Got a replacement Well Nut, it broke oinly tightening it to finger tight (used 3 fingers), went through about 5 of them and finaly got it secured properly. The ones it came with kept poping through but I did not have as migh tightening issues with them. ONe thing I noticed is before it actyualy feels secure the metal piece inside the well nut start squeezing through the nylon spacers, after it pull itself though the spacer (pulled lower than the back of the wellnut) the rubber is less expanded, so the screw pops back out! THe ones on the outside of the deflector gave me no real problems. But I could never tell when to stop turnign the ones with the nylon spacer as they NEVER would get tight, I ended up tightening them just enough that screw cannot pop out, however they are less than 3 fingers tight! I could easily break the wellnuts tightening them with 3 fingers and never notice them being too tight...! The directorions say 10 lbs I was no where near this with the ones from lowes. The factory ones were more forgiving, but I had already busted them do to fitment issues.
My only other complaint is the instructions say to remove the double sided tape and there isn't any, I added some and it did nothing. That and the wellnuts it came with did not work very well... They would not compress the rubber enough, rather after closing and opening the hood a couple times the well nuts would just pop back thorugh the holes...Ended up only using one of the stock wellnuts....
Also there are a few ripples in the deflector fromt he factory. and Invterted dents from what appears to be the way they bent it into shape. For $120 it should have come with a cople extra well nuts screws and should have no blemishes IMO...
I think I would rather install a PRG lift kit than the bug deflector again at least that thing is straight forward!
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PRG Upper Arms and SAWs DR rears 4" lift, Dunder Grill, Extensive Stereo System, HID Club, AEM, Stillen Exhaust, Wet Okoles. Some Titan Pictures (Work in Progress)
I agree with you on the wellnuts. I had a terrible time with mine. I finally bought some that were just a bit larger and they worked great.
__________________ 2004 Titan LE CC 4x2 in Deep Water
Stainless Steel Grill, Bug Deflector, Door Sills, and Bull Guard, Chrome Tailgate cover, Brushed Aluminum Dash Kit, ATS Fender Flares, PRG Leveling Kit, Grounding Kit, Gibson Single Out Cat Back Exhaust, Volant CAI
YOu guys aren't kidding...I lost a well nut in the hood!...I thought thais was gonna be easy! Grrr...
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2005 SE King Cab, Smoke,
OEM Fogs
OEM Sirius
Class IV Hitch Kit(CourtesyParts.com)
STEELERS HITCH CAP (+25hp)
+8 Ogre Slaying Knife
K&N 77-6012KP CAI
PIAA HID's (Group Buy)
Stainless Door Sills (*******)
Dash Kit, red burl (*******)
Traction Bars (Leaf Spring Helpers, what a great cheap mod)
Borla Dual Cat Back
Cornfed 2 1/2" Front and 1 1/4" blocks in back
I agree installing the Lund ss was a nightmare,it took me a little over a hour.I have lund shields on all my chevys and the install was 10mins.On GM and GMC the have a threaded plastic plug which inserts into the oem holes in the hood,place the shield up,screw in the screws and your done- Lunds design for the Nissan is poor especially the expandable gromets that are to secure the shield.I had to trim mine around the high spots of the hood for proper alignment.My other gripe is the cheesy and cheap self tapping plastic screws they give you to attach to the c brackets at the ends-you spend approx 125.00 for the shield and you get plastic screws,what were they thinking!I went to the hardware store and bought ss nuts,bolts and washers and changed them out.After all my problems,I will say you cannot beat the look of the ss,I love it!
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